Coop in garden over electricity cables

[Frattoneyes]

Hi all,

Hoping for some advice on building a new run before I get my first hens.

My requirement

• To build a simple walk-in chicken run that will house Eglu Cube chicken coop and 3-4 hens (each with 2-3 sq meters space.
• To use the existing wooden garden fence on 2 sides. This is a redundant part of the garden so I want to utilise all this space.
• Height of run to be the same height as existing fence posts - plus an additional height for sloping roof. Keeping under 2.5 meters.
• DIY to keep costs down

The problems:

• There are municipal electricity cables running underground in the area I've shaded in red. I do not want to dig in this area (other than a few CMs/inches for levelling)
• The tree is under Tree Preservation Order so must be avoided by law. Hence the L-shaped design proposal.
• The tree has roots which are near to the surface along the dotted red lines. This makes the ground uneven, impossible to dig down along the dotted lines.
• The entire area is uneven. The fence at the back is approx 1ft higher than the lawn at the front (nearest camera).
• The fence at the back isn't a perfect right angle
• The area has been cleared of bushes but the stumps remain. Digging or grinding these out would be impossible due to the proximity of underground electricity cables - will the hens mind the stumps in the run?
• My L-shaped requirement and the sloping nature of the ground means there aren't any off-the-shelf runs suitable.

The positives

• There are 3 concrete fence posts (shaded green in annotated picture) which could be used to support poles

Questions

• Would it be possible to use the existing fence posts as part of the frame structure? Or would I need to build all sides of the frame as new?
• How would I safely attach a frame to the existing fence posts? joist hangers?
• What should I use for the base of the coop to support the new vertical poles required to make the frame?
• How can I level the structure without using concrete or any permanent building (building anything too permanent is prohibited over the cables in case access to cables is required)
• My understanding is that contact with wood to ground is likely to result in the wood rotting (even if treated), therefore, how should I create the "foundations" of the frame to ensure longevity, strength and level whilst being unable to dig due to roots and cables?

 

[ackie]

I love this because it sounds like doing projects at my house. Sticking things between trees and using existing structure makes things almost more like tetris. And NOTHING is square here, so dont even worry about it, haha. Unless you are huge on aesthetics.

I dont see any reason why youd need to level the area. A slight slope is actually good for drainage. I guess if any particular area pooled water, it might be useful to fill in the hole.

Your girls will not mind the stumps at all.

Wood on the ground will rot eventually, but it depends on what kind of longevity you're talking about. We put in a pressure treated fence probably 10 years ago and are replacing it now because the uprights are rotting, but it had no weather protection at all.

I probably have more points but I forgot them.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Deck Blocks and lighter deck blocks. I've used both. Actually prefer the lighter ones, in spite of the increased cost - the little dimples help keep the wood from sitting in water, and unlike concrete, they don't wick water from the soil if you have damp ground. However, the footprint is a bit larger, so there is slightly more ground to level. Not a problem, unless you have particularly rocky soil - which you don't.

As to attaching it to the fence, the easiest way is a "ledger board". Basically, you attach a horizontal board to the fence and screw it in, then set your run's roofing on top of that. Just like hanging a deck off the side of a house.

If you were hanging a deck, then yes, joists and hangers would be the way to go - but because you are structuring a very light weight roof on top, which you won't be walking on, to nailing or screwing boards into the top of your ledger will be adequate. I.e.

 

[3KillerBs]

I was about to suggest those deck blocks when @U_Stormcrow beat me to it.

How deep are the cables? The chickens will dig down a surprising depth. Maybe laying some pavers directly over the cables would be a good idea to prevent digging in the immediate area?

How long treated wood lasts is highly dependent on climate. In a cool, dry climate it can last decades. Here in the steamy southeastern US you won't make the first decade. The experts at your local lumber supply can best advise you about how to deal with your local conditions (BTW, you can add your general location to your profile to help people give well-targeted advice).

As for the stumps, chickens will love them.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

I was about to suggest those deck blocks when @U_Stormcrow beat me to it.

How deep are the cables? The chickens will dig down a surprising depth. Maybe laying some pavers directly over the cables would be a good idea to prevent digging in the immediate area?

How long treated wood lasts is highly dependent on climate. In a cool, dry climate it can last decades. Here in the steamy southeastern US you won't make the first decade. The experts at your local lumber supply can best advise you about how to deal with your local conditions (BTW, you can add your general location to your profile to help people give well-targeted advice).

As for the stumps, chickens will love them.

***IF*** they buried the cables to code??? 3' minimum.

 

[3KillerBs]

***IF*** they buried the cables to code??? 3' minimum.

I do not trust in work having been done to code.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

I do not trust in work having been done to code.

Neither do i. I dig my own trenches, and supervised the local electric company when they dug on my property. Its a wise position you have taken, I'm going to join you on that hill.

 

[aart]

There are municipal electricity cables running underground in the area I've shaded in red. I do not want to dig in this area (other than a few CMs/inches for levelling)

How much do you know about the accuracy and depth of the power lines?

Agrees, that blocks sitting on top of ground is your best bet.
If the tree is protected, does that include covering the root area,
which can greatly impact the health of tree?

Welcome to BYC! @Frattoneyes
Where in this world are you located?
Climate, and time of year, is almost always a factor.
Please add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, and then it's always there!

 

[Frattoneyes]

Thanks for the replies so far.

I'm in Hampshire, United Kingdom (England). So protection against rain is needed! As you can see the ground is sodden at the moment but dries up nicely in warmer months. The area will always have protection from too much sunlight as it's under the big sycamore tree.

The tree protection extends to the roots - so that means I can't damage them. I'm sure placing blocks around the tree wouldn't damage it.

If I raised the coop onto blocks, how would I prevent predators from coming in underneath? Would I need to raise the level of the ground or just run a mesh apron to the ground?

 

[Frattoneyes]

***IF*** they buried the cables to code??? 3' minimum.

Hi, I think the cables would be ~4 inches below the surface but I'm not prepared to dig to find out. They're municipal cables which go to a nearby substation so damaging them would be incredibly expensive - if I lived to receive the biull.
Agree - paving stones over the cabled area would be a good idea. I plan to cover the whole area with wood chippings - but I agree, paving stones underneath would be a good idea too.