1. Year of the Rooster

    Year of the Rooster Sebright Savvy

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    Jun 27, 2008
    West Central Ohio
    Ok, so my dad and I have agreed on this coop: http://chickchalet.com/index.html and we have already bought the plans, but now I'm having second thoughts about it. 1.) The wire flooring. I'd like to make it wood but I am having a hard time convincing him about the cons of wire floors. and 2.) is the nesting boxes. I don't think they will be big enough for a standard hen. I guess we could TRY and make them bigger. We are going with the 12 hen coop. I doubt it is actually for 12 hens unless they are bantam. I've decided on 5 standards and 5 bantams. Since it doesn't come with a run we will build it ourselves. I would really like opinions on this and maybe you could give me some reasons why wire flooring isn't good. Thank you.
     
  2. chickflick

    chickflick Overrun With Chickens

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    Mar 10, 2007
    Dimondale
    Wire floors are so rough on the chickens feet. Will cause lots of problems. For bantams, a 12"x12" nesting box is fine, but for a standard, I would use at least 14"x14". They need room to turn around and stand up to lay their eggs. Happy chickens make better eggs...lol. I don't see where they say how big the nest boxes are, tho. but, you probably can change it to better fit your needs.
     
  3. arlee453

    arlee453 Chillin' With My Peeps

    Aug 13, 2007
    near Charlotte NC
    I have the ChickChalet plans and built one for my girls, witha few modifications. (I made the larger size) If you look in my sig line below you can click on the webcam and see mine in the run. Overall, it's a good design, well laid out plans and easy to build. Economical too in they way he has the wood cuts already laid out and everything.

    The nest boxes are plenty big enough for even my buff orp girls, so I'd not worry about that.

    edited to add: As far as numbers of chickens - if you have to coop them up for days at a time, then I'd not put more than 6-8 hens in the larger size coop. However, you can sleep 20 hens in there if all they are doing is sleeping and laying in there, and not having to be locked up in there.

    I built the wire floor in mine - we live in a warm climate and the chicken's don't stay inside the coop - they are out in the run and only go in the coop to sleep and lay eggs. If they had to be cooped up in there for any length of time I would consider wood instead of wire, but the wire and elevated height does make it easier to clean.

    A few comments on the design...

    After I got it made, I realized there is no easy way to open up the coop for cleaning. I ended up prying off the two back panels on either side of the feeder and cutting them down slightly, adding hinges and latches and making them doors.

    I left out the waterer. I use the feeder for oyster shell only. The feeder would be almost impossible to clean out given the design unless you figure out a way to make it removable.

    My other complaint about the design is that there are TOO many nest boxes for the size of the coop. You really only need one side's worth for the number of hens that would fit in there. Also, since the boxes openings are the same height as the roosts, the girls wanted to sleep in the boxes as first. I solved that issue by blocking off the boxes with cardboard until they were ready to lay, and then only opening up the laying boxes nearest the front of the coop, instead of nearer the back where they all like to roost a night.

    I'm considering building another on this design for my silkies.

    A few changes I'd make would be to switch the nestbox support and the floor supports so that the nest boxes were at floor level instead of higher up at roost level.

    Also, I'd leave out the feeder alltogether and make the entire back panel a removable panel or door for easier cleaning.

    Finally, I'd probably only put nest boxes on one sides, and use the other side where the nest boxes go for storage.
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2008
  4. WestKnollAmy

    WestKnollAmy The Crazy Chicken Lady

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    upstate SC
    If the chickens will be able to go outside into a run then the floor should not be too harsh on the feet. But I think I would lay some planks down on the wire so they could have places to walk on that were more comfortable.
    Tell your Dad, the wire is going to be a pain to clean because the poop doesn't fall through the holes. It likes to attach to it instead! But it does the same to the boards. I use a flat shovel to scrape my boards off.
    It's a pretty design.
    Good luck![​IMG]
     
  5. Year of the Rooster

    Year of the Rooster Sebright Savvy

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    Jun 27, 2008
    West Central Ohio
    Quote:wow! Thanks for the comment. I am DEFINITELY going to take your opinions into consideration. I may have to show my dad your post [​IMG] I'll keep in touch with you if I have anymore questions. Thanks! [​IMG]

    ETA: I live in Ohio and during the winter it can be cold and hot during the summer. So what if I left it a wire floor in the sumer and put a piece of plywood on the wire for the winter? Or would I be better off with just a wood floor?
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2008
  6. Year of the Rooster

    Year of the Rooster Sebright Savvy

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    Jun 27, 2008
    West Central Ohio
    Also, the dimensions of the nest boxes are 12x10x14 and 9 3/4 in. in the back.
     
  7. Year of the Rooster

    Year of the Rooster Sebright Savvy

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    Jun 27, 2008
    West Central Ohio
    Also, arlee453, would it be too much to ask if I could see pictures of yours to get an idea of what you're talking about? I'd appreciate it [​IMG]
     
  8. arlee453

    arlee453 Chillin' With My Peeps

    Aug 13, 2007
    near Charlotte NC
    https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=20020

    Here's
    a thread about my run I built - you can see pics of the coop there.

    I'll try to get out and take a few more close up pics - we've had our coop in place the better part of a year now, and it's weathered really well so far.

    As far as cleaning - the poos don't all fall through the wire, but I use a flat edged hoe to scrape them out. That's why I ended up making the back side of the coop doors rather than panels. I can open it up either side of the feeder and get in there to scrape out any stuck poops with the hoe.
     
  9. ozzie

    ozzie Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Nov 12, 2007
    Arlee Just so happened that whilst I was looking through old posts I found a pic of your coop

    [​IMG]

    cheers
    ozzie
     

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