Coop ventilation

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by EasterEggDrew, Sep 8, 2016.

  1. EasterEggDrew

    EasterEggDrew Chillin' With My Peeps

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    4 X 4 foot coop with 12/12 pitch roof peaking in the middle at 7 feet high.

    http://cconly.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/Capture_44.75123406_std.JPG

    So, now to ventilate... but what's best? I could do a ridge vent (haven't yet shingled), or circular vents in one or both gables. What size vents would be best (eg. 4" circle in both gables?), and is anything needed down low?


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  2. Carpenter

    Carpenter Out Of The Brooder

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    Either would be sufficient. I think that the ridge vent would be a nice look and you could always add gable vents later if you think that you need them.
     
  3. EasterEggDrew

    EasterEggDrew Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Another option that would be easier than the ridge vent is crescent moon (hunk outhouse) vents in both gables. Still need approximate size advice.


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  4. TerryH

    TerryH Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Last edited: Sep 8, 2016
  5. Carpenter

    Carpenter Out Of The Brooder

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    Great info!
     
  6. treefrogging

    treefrogging Just Hatched

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    The back part of my shed was converted into the chicken's area. I have one gable vent up high in the front of the shed, and a window middle-of-the-way up in the back of the shed. Do I need more ventilation? Maybe another gable vent in the back? Any more windows? Thank you.
     
  7. aart

    aart Chicken Juggler! Premium Member

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    Good article but hard to apply that 'rule of thumb' to tiny coops.
    A lot depends on climate and also micro climate of a particular site.
     
  8. EasterEggDrew

    EasterEggDrew Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Yes, I read the article. The only specifics given are 0.4 to 1.0 sq.ft. per bird, based on the 4 sq.ft. floor per bird, based on the 4 sq.ft. floor per bird often quoted here. That's a starting point but they really give no information on how to determine if you have too much or too little, or when to sway toward the 0.4 or the 1.0 sq.ft. per bird extremes.

    I'm near Allentown PA, and we have days (many, this summer) with heat index well over 100F. We also have many nights with windchill below 0F most winters, so we have quite a swing between extremes, throughout the year. A few months ago my back patio was under five or six feet of drifted snow, and now the lawn is brown and dead from the heat.

    My coop has a window, which opens to approximately 3 sq.ft. So, I'm thinking that adding 1.6 sq.ft. in the roof might be a good starting point. This means I can open the window to get as much as 4.6 sq.ft. (well over 1 sq.ft. per bird) in hot summer weather, and shut down as far as the article's proposed 1 sq.ft. per 10 sq.ft. of floor in winter, while eliminating drafts by closing the window.

    It's interesting this author makes an argument for insulating the coop, whereas I've seen others here claim it's pointless. I could insulate, but only if I do it in the next few days. It's nearly time to move my baby chicks out to the coop!
     
  9. aart

    aart Chicken Juggler! Premium Member

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    The article is not and end all be all, just gives some ideas.
    Insulation can help but is generally unnecessary, it's a toss up due to the ventilation....probably helps more in summer if your coop is in full sun.
    You have to assess your site and coop to figure out the best places to have open ventilation and closable ventilation.
    Get inside the coop when the wind is howling to assess where your heavy drafts might be.

    Much can depend on where you put your roosts, not decided yet? https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/1131569/new-coop-setup/10
    On your coop I'd add large louvered gable vents on both ends.
    It's shame there are no eaves and that the window is not top hinged, rain infiltration may well be an issue.
    Depending on how handy you are you could add a couple more windows (top hinged) for summer.
     
  10. EasterEggDrew

    EasterEggDrew Chillin' With My Peeps

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    I could add a window above the pop door, which would be under the covered run roof. Not as easy to frame into the assembled wall, as it would have been before, but I could do it.

    I've picked a vent location, which will be in the roof. The run tees into main roof, as a sort of large dormer, and so it's the perfect spot to put a sheltered hole in the roof.


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