Coop ventilation

bird_chick

In the Brooder
Jul 15, 2019
17
38
41
NW Pennsylvania
We are building a 4’ x 8’ coop with one of the short ends having a storage room (33” x 48”). This leaves an actual coop size of 66” x 48” with one of the 4 walls butting against the storage room. Not counting windows, would a 3” gap at top of coop along the 3 outside walls be sufficient ventilation, particularly in NW Pennsylvania where the windows may be closed in winter? If I did my math correctly that would 45 square feet of hardware cloth covered ventilation. (2 long sides of 66" x 3" high opening plus one short end of 48" of 3" high opening)
TYIA!!
 
The problem with running that gap along 3 sides is that the air will blast through... great for summer cooling... but not so good in winter.

For winter I like a huge vent on one side only. Better yet if that one huge vent opens onto a roofed run, since that means snow and rain can't get in.
 
The problem with running that gap along 3 sides is that the air will blast through... great for summer cooling... but not so good in winter.

For winter I like a huge vent on one side only. Better yet if that one huge vent opens onto a roofed run, since that means snow and rain can't get in.

I could extend the roof overhang further out on the low and shielded side of the coop and have the vent close to the roof line. That wall is one of the 66" long sides, so I could get quite a long vent.
 
We are building a 4’ x 8’ coop with one of the short ends having a storage room (33” x 48”). This leaves an actual coop size of 66” x 48” with one of the 4 walls butting against the storage room. Not counting windows, would a 3” gap at top of coop along the 3 outside walls be sufficient ventilation, particularly in NW Pennsylvania where the windows may be closed in winter? If I did my math correctly that would 45 square feet of hardware cloth covered ventilation. (2 long sides of 66" x 3" high opening plus one short end of 48" of 3" high opening)
TYIA!!

My math has it at 6 square feet.

66" +66" +48" =180 linear inches.
divide 180" by 12 to get linear feet equals 15 linear feet.

15 linear feet x .4 (since 3" is 1 /4 foot) equals 6 square feet.

:confused:
 
I could extend the roof overhang further out on the low and shielded side of the coop and have the vent close to the roof line. That wall is one of the 66" long sides, so I could get quite a long vent.
That would be good... I would make that vent as large as possible, so way taller than you were thinking... maybe 2 feet tall and the full width..... and then cut a plywood piece that could be used in winter to slide over the opening and adjust the size as needed.

Also... over time I have switched over to breeds with tiny combs and wattles.
 
If I've done my research correctly and my info recall has not taken an absolute dive, I think I remember a hard and fast "rule" of a minimum square 1" ventilation per square feet of coop floor space. Is that am accurate or sufficient "rule" to follow?
 
If I've done my research correctly and my info recall has not taken an absolute dive, I think I remember a hard and fast "rule" of a minimum square 1" ventilation per square feet of coop floor space. Is that am accurate or sufficient "rule" to follow?

Yes... that is a good basic rule, even in cold weather.
 
If I've done my research correctly and my info recall has not taken an absolute dive, I think I remember a hard and fast "rule" of a minimum square 1" ventilation per square feet of coop floor space. Is that am accurate or sufficient "rule" to follow?

The "rule" is 10% of floor space (so 10 sq ft for a 10x10 coop) or 1 sq ft per bird, whichever is greater. So if you have 20 birds in that 10x10 coop, you're looking at 20 sq ft.

If you can go above minimum, I'd recommend it. I currently have over 4 sq ft per bird and if I could add more, I would, because it does help when it warms up. If you have to deal with both hot and cold temps include vents and windows that can be opened and closed, use louvered covers, good roof overhangs, etc.
 

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