1. Come check out hundreds of awesome coop pages (and a few that need suggestions) in our 2018 Coop Rating Project!

  1. Hi

    I'm thinking of building a coop in spring and was wandering wether any of you had built a corrugated iron coop maybe the roof or the whole coop? If you have can you post some pictures so I can see what yours look like. I'm going to built one for about 12 medium sized chickens.


  2. Judy

    Judy Crowing Staff Member Premium Member

    Feb 5, 2009
    South Georgia
    I have a completely metal coop, built of corrugated galvanized roofing material, but I'm sorry, no camera. These were 2' wide sheets meant to be used for roofing, quite long. My son built it; he also welded the framing together for it. It is 10' x 18'. The roof slopes to one side only, from one 18' side to the other. One short (10') end has a people door in it made of 1x4's and hardware cloth. The other 10' side, which is the south side, is half covered in hardware cloth. There are two pop doors at opposite ends; a frame for them was also built of the metal framing, and a wood frame screwed to the metal, then a wood door hinged at the bottom was built for them.

    The framing for the coop is made with 2" square metal tubes or rods, hollow inside, thick and quite strong. It would have been simpler to do this with wood, in my mind, but the metal was scraps and free. For the long walls and one short wall it is simply a single rectangle about 1' away from the edge of the roofing tin, with a cross piece of the same metal going horizontally halfway up the wall, and another vertical one, also half the length of the wall, even on the long walls. For the short ends, the top piece of course slants, resulting in walls that are a bit over 6' on one side and close to 8' on the other. This was modified a bit for the people door (north) end, and two pop door framings were added. A fifth metal frame was welded together for the roof in the same manner; it was made large enough that there is a good 1' overhang. It also has a single cross piece, running the short way. It was put in place then welded to the wall frames. Wood was used on top of the metal frame as a base for the roof. Six 2x4s run the 18' direction, two a few inches from the edge. These were butted together (no 18' long boards here) and a second 2x4 was nailed to the first one, just below it, this one on edge. Cutouts were made in the second one to slip over the bars of the metal roofing frame. The metal roofing material was then screwed to the flat side up 2x4s and the metal frame itself.

    We did this simply because all the metal had already been purchased or was free. My son built the frame after hours at his workplace, with the blessing of the owner, by the way. We would both have chosen wood had we not had the materials, but I'm glad it worked out like this because mites and lice can't hide in metal! I keep an old broom in there to knock down spider webs and wasp nests, and this is all the maintenance it needs. And coons can't climb it. It has a dirt floor (my lifelong preference) and the roosts are a freestanding structure, 3 parallel roosts with two top crosspieces and 4 legs, all 2x4's. The nests are inside, not attached to the walls. We've also added a framed off area inside, about 5'x6', and walled it with chicken wire and put in a simple wood framed door made of more chicken wire, as a broody or isolation pen, in the NE corner, which is where one of the pop doors are. He extended the walls down 1' into the ground for predator protection. The lower cross piece is at ground level, so there is no support for the roofing metal below ground at its ends, but it's pretty thick, stiff stuff. It's about 3 years old now and has been no problem at all.

    I hope this is clear enough without pics; again, sorry about that. I know you'll have to convert the American measurements, but I would make a mess if I tried it; presumably your materials measure a little differently anyway.

    The open areas along the top of the long sides, between the walls and roof, were left open air for ventilation. I'm so glad we have this much ventilation in the summer as this is a pretty warm climate, not far north of what is called subtropical. The only open area I cover for winter is the people door, with plastic, because we are in a mini clime here that has almost entirely northerly winds, and the roosts are in the SW corner of the coop, directly south of the people door. Feeders are hung from roof crosspieces with plastic covered metal clothesline wire. Waterers are sitting on concrete blocks. Feed is stored in metal garbage cans. We wired it by running power in through pvc pipe up the wall, in the corner, and the outlets are on the metal cross pieces of the roof. Water is a spigot just outside.

    I have 15 chickens but there have been a lot more in there as we raise roos for the freezer. I'm so glad we built it this big anyway as they spend the middle of the day in there in summer, for the shade and good breeze. I do hose off the roof on really hot days for them, to cool it, and we run a box fan in the summer. Our one mistake was not building it in the shade, although it is easier to make it predator proof this way. When they are all in there during a really heavy rain or on a hundred degree day, I wouldn't want them to have any less space at all.
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 19, 2010

BackYard Chickens is proudly sponsored by