Day 22 of incubation and I think the lone survivor may be dead

NewChickielady

In the Brooder
Mar 21, 2018
29
16
49
This is my first time incubating chicken eggs. Im using the Hova Bator 1602n still air, turning eggs myself every 8 hrs ( I stopped turning day 18) I had set 8 eggs on 2/27/18. Since its a Hova Bator there were many temp fluctuations I did my beat to keep it at a steady 100.5 to 101.5 while I was awake. There were maybe 2 days (not in a row) were I checked and the temp rose to 102. I didn't get a hygrometer until day 5 of incubation, so the humidity levels before day 6 I didn't track. After day 6 however, humidity was at a steady 35 -40%. Everything was going perfectly until 3/6/18 when my husband got hospitalized and stayed for 3 days. During those 3 days I had my father n law turning the eggs for me, I candled on day 10 and of 8 eggs only 3 were viable and moving beautifully. On day 11 I had to take my husband back to the hospital for a couple of hours, but during the time i was gone my Father n law turned my eggs and I came home to black marks on 2 of my viable eggs. I candled on day 18 and saw only 1 viable moving and growing baby chickie. The other 2 stopped developing my guess at day 11 or 12. On lockdown i rose the humidity to 70-75% and dropped the temp to 99.5 according to everything I researched now its day 22 and nothing, no rocking, no pip and no peep. I am devestated, is there even a chance of this one making it? BTW after more research I learned the temp in a still air had to be at 100.5 to 101. I guess all this is a lesson learned for my next batch. Guess my questions are does my lone survivor have a chance? Is it too late to candle? Should I just stop now and prepare the Bator for a new batch?
 

Rose Quartz

Enabler
Mar 18, 2018
2,603
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East Hants N.S. Canada
This is my first time incubating chicken eggs. Im using the Hova Bator 1602n still air, turning eggs myself every 8 hrs ( I stopped turning day 18) I had set 8 eggs on 2/27/18. Since its a Hova Bator there were many temp fluctuations I did my beat to keep it at a steady 100.5 to 101.5 while I was awake. There were maybe 2 days (not in a row) were I checked and the temp rose to 102. I didn't get a hygrometer until day 5 of incubation, so the humidity levels before day 6 I didn't track. After day 6 however, humidity was at a steady 35 -40%. Everything was going perfectly until 3/6/18 when my husband got hospitalized and stayed for 3 days. During those 3 days I had my father n law turning the eggs for me, I candled on day 10 and of 8 eggs only 3 were viable and moving beautifully. On day 11 I had to take my husband back to the hospital for a couple of hours, but during the time i was gone my Father n law turned my eggs and I came home to black marks on 2 of my viable eggs. I candled on day 18 and saw only 1 viable moving and growing baby chickie. The other 2 stopped developing my guess at day 11 or 12. On lockdown i rose the humidity to 70-75% and dropped the temp to 99.5 according to everything I researched now its day 22 and nothing, no rocking, no pip and no peep. I am devestated, is there even a chance of this one making it? BTW after more research I learned the temp in a still air had to be at 100.5 to 101. I guess all this is a lesson learned for my next batch. Guess my questions are does my lone survivor have a chance? Is it too late to candle? Should I just stop now and prepare the Bator for a new batch?
You can give it to day 25. but one chick needs a lot of care, or you would need to go find it some friends
 

NewChickielady

In the Brooder
Mar 21, 2018
29
16
49
maybe try putting the temp back up to 100. and give it to day 25. I would have had 102 as my running temp for a still air.
I did turn up the temp to 101, I should rise it more? I read something about a float test only if no pip or cracks should I bother?
 

Rose Quartz

Enabler
Mar 18, 2018
2,603
62,789
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East Hants N.S. Canada
I did turn up the temp to 101, I should rise it more? I read something about a float test only if no pip or cracks should I bother?
oh you can keep it at 101 now. it should be lower for hatching. but still air should be about 102 at the tops of the eggs for days 1-18. so little chickie might be a few days behind. I would candle first if you see movement or veins I would just pop it back in the bator. Float test risks infection.
 

lazy gardener

Crossing the Road
7 Years
Nov 7, 2012
27,615
27,066
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CENTRAL MAINE zone 4B
Agreed with RQ. Still air needs to be 102 measured at top of eggs. I am not a fan of float testing, IMO it's essentially a waste of time, and risky to the chick.

ETA, @NewChickielady , did you calibrate your thermometers and your hygrometer? If so, what method did you use? If equipment was not calibrated there would be no way of knowing what your actual temp was.
 

NewChickielady

In the Brooder
Mar 21, 2018
29
16
49
Agreed with RQ. Still air needs to be 102 measured at top of eggs. I am not a fan of float testing, IMO it's essentially a waste of time, and risky to the chick.

ETA, @NewChickielady , did you calibrate your thermometers and your hygrometer? If so, what method did you use? If equipment was not calibrated there would be no way of knowing what your actual temp was.
I calibrated the thermometer it came with and saw it was 3 degrees diff. And the hygrometer didnt know it needed to be calibrated?!?
 

NewChickielady

In the Brooder
Mar 21, 2018
29
16
49
oh you can keep it at 101 now. it should be lower for hatching. but still air should be about 102 at the tops of the eggs for days 1-18. so little chickie might be a few days behind. I would candle first if you see movement or veins I would just pop it back in the bator. Float test risks infection.
Okay I candled and no movement still and its not completely dark, I did see veins though.
 

MANNA-PRO

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