1. If this is your first time on BYC, we suggest you start with one of these three options:
    Raising Chickens Chicken Coops Join BYC
    If you're already a member of our community, click here to login & click here to learn what's new!

Double overlap welded wire fencing instead of hardware cloth?

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by HouseMouseHens, Sep 11, 2012.

  1. HouseMouseHens

    HouseMouseHens Chillin' With My Peeps

    245
    19
    91
    Jul 31, 2012
    Portland, Oregon
    My Coop
    So, We're doing out entire run(except it will have a proper roof since it rains here constantly) with 2x4 welded wire fencing, as we can't afford to buy enough hardware cloth for the entire thing. We planned on getting 24" wide hardware cloth to go around the bottom so nothing can reach in and grab the girls, but I had two other ideas, and I thought I'd run them by you guys for your thoughts.

    Idea #1:

    I thought we could use the welded wire for a second layer of fencing around the bottom two feet, but offset it an inch from the first layer so it's basically 1x2 inch holes. I'm not sure if I explained that well... Basically we would add the fencing the same way, just moved sideways one inch and up two inches so it isn't lined up, making the smaller holes. We're planning to sandwich the fencing between the 4x4 posts with a second 2x4 on the inside (fencing in between) so it's really secure.
    Does this sound like it might work? I figure it will, since it'll be really secure and the holes will then be so much smaller. We have raccoons, opossum, feral neighborhood cats, and a potentially chicken eating Aussie shepherd to worry about. We live in a very urban area, so during the day isn't really a worry so much, and they will be locked in the coop at night.

    Idea #2:

    We are planning to use 2x8 boards all the way around the bottom of the run to keep the gravel and sand in, so my other thought was to use 2x12 boards stacked two high (so 24 inches high) all the way around, killing two birds with one stone. Keeping the gravel and sand in, and predators out. I like this idea better than using the fencing overlapped, as I think it will look nicer.

    We plan to build garden boxes along a few of the three foot stretches between posts anyways, so this just eliminated having to build the back part of the boxes as well..

    Thoughts?
     
  2. bucky52

    bucky52 Chillin' With My Peeps

    1,121
    20
    163
    Apr 26, 2011
    would you mind me asking.where did you find your welded wire.
     
  3. HouseMouseHens

    HouseMouseHens Chillin' With My Peeps

    245
    19
    91
    Jul 31, 2012
    Portland, Oregon
    My Coop
    Why would anyone mind? :p

    I got mine at Lowes, as it's the easiest place for me to get things like that in PDX without driving out to the burbs. I think it was $65 for 100' at 4 feet wide.
     
  4. bucky52

    bucky52 Chillin' With My Peeps

    1,121
    20
    163
    Apr 26, 2011
    ok thanks.dh and i do lots of shopping at lowes.
     
  5. Nathan Sampson

    Nathan Sampson Chillin' With My Peeps

    192
    4
    99
    Apr 12, 2012
    Whitewater Mo
    I believe that either one of your ideas would be perfectly good no matter which one you do.
     
  6. wsmoak

    wsmoak Chillin' With My Peeps

    If they're going to be in the coop at night, then 2x4 wire should be fine for the run.

    One of my runs is chain link, and the other is and 2x4 wire above 2' of plywood in a mobile coop.

    And actually I don't close them into the coop at night -- I used to, but it doesn't seem necessary the way things are set up. The perches are far enough from the fence wire that nothing can reach them. A predator would have to get inside the fence in order to get them.

    I get a rat snake eating eggs now and then, but haven't had trouble with raccoons, opossums or coyotes, all of which are around here.

    Using extra wood on the bottom and perhaps an apron of wire to discourage digging sound like better ideas than trying to overlap the wire. (Although... have you priced 2x12's ??)

    -Wendy
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2012
  7. HouseMouseHens

    HouseMouseHens Chillin' With My Peeps

    245
    19
    91
    Jul 31, 2012
    Portland, Oregon
    My Coop
    I actually already have a bunch os 2x12a, 2x8s and 2x6s. I get all my lumber reclaimed so it's actually super cheap. :)
     
  8. amenfarm

    amenfarm Chillin' With My Peeps

    783
    38
    166
    May 10, 2011
    Chattanooga, TN
    I am using something similar. We did a 1x6 around the bottom of our temporary coop and my husband used the hardware cloth up 24 inches-stapleing with 1/2 inch steel stables to another board. we could not buy the gauge of the hardware cloth as heavy as we wanted locally, so he used 2x4 welded wire fencing from the same 1x6 all the way up to the ceiling for the entire space. It made the fence much stiffer, my donkey can't move it so the coyotos won't!
     
  9. Bear Foot Farm

    Bear Foot Farm Overrun With Chickens

    5,545
    223
    288
    Mar 31, 2008
    Grifton NC
    I think you'll find that you may START with it "centered", but the farther you go , the more likely it is you'll get out of line and STILL end up with 2" spaces.

    It would be easier to just use a smaller size wire around the bottom to be SURE
     
  10. amenfarm

    amenfarm Chillin' With My Peeps

    783
    38
    166
    May 10, 2011
    Chattanooga, TN
    There is a fencing that starts small at on end and the size holes increase as you go up, I've seen it on Tractor supply web site as well as in the store. Listed for Rabbits I think. That would work for the 1st 24", or it's 36" then you could switch.
     

BackYard Chickens is proudly sponsored by