Got 2 raccoons in 3 days with Duke dog proof traps.

squadleader

Songster
Dec 23, 2017
169
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Richmond, VA
I knew zero about trapping, but with the help and advice of the good folks at FNTPOST.com I've gotten two hungary male raccoons in the last three days, with six Duke dog proof traps, along the treeline of my field, where are my hens graze every day.

My little flock of 12 hens and one rooster, free range everyday. They spend quite a bit of time along the tree line of my field, that adjoins 400 acres of timberland.

I was worried about what might snatch them there.

My son did the research and found out about dog proof traps. They're very simple and easy to use, and as the name implies, won't catch dogs.

We got the traps, and tried both marshmellows and sardines, we were unsuccessful with both.

Some youtube videos talked about fish oil as an attractant, so I started researching that, and that's when I found FNTPOST.com They had the best prices and really specialize in trapping and hunting.

I called them and they had the knowledge and products I needed.

Here's what I ordered:

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I got a gallon of fish oil, and 4 ounces of shellfish oil to add to the gallon of fish oil. I got a simple 16 ounce squirt bottle to put the oil in, you don't put the oil on the trap, you do one long squirt along the trail in both directions as far as the squirt will go.

They also have a great price on the traps themselves, and when you call, you're not talking to an order taker, but an expert trapper.

Make sure you order the stake for each trap (they're cheap). After setting the spring of the trap, when you jab the trap into the ground, cock the trap at a 45 degree angle to make it easier for the raccoon or possum to see and smell the bait, and to get their paw into the trap.

I didn't want to trap a cat, even though the trap doesn't break any bones, so I got the "Very Berry" pellet bait, very effective with raccoons, not as good with possums (smoked fish is better for possums).

One container of the bait is enough to set my six traps, three times each. You only use enough to cover the trigger.

You have to check the trap every morning, and handle the trapee, in whatever fashion you prefer.

I used my pistol because they serve chicken dinners in raccoon heaven 24/7. Raccoons like that.

My son is learning to skin them for the pelts. If it were just me, I'd just feed him to my Super Can, after a proper black trash bag internment.

This is a Duke dog proof trap:
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Hope this helps someone who might be struggling with predators.
 
Agreed. If you are going to trap coons, the DP's are the way to go. BTW, plain old cat food will work, so no need for the exotic (or expensive) baits. There are some videos on this towards the end of this thread. The second one on trapping backyard bandits does an excellent job of explaining how to set these traps, types, etc. and how to up a string of them to nab a bunch in one night.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/coons-believe-it.1170361/

Having said all that, if you have a large area of woods next to you, trapping your way out of that problem is going to be a problem, and free ranging in that scenario is a recipe for disaster. Most folks who do it eventually get wiped out. Predators of all types are plentiful and they are that good.

The solution is to "yard" the birds inside a protective barrier established by an electric fence. Done right, birds stay in and predators stay out. Both stay very much alive.

But back to trapping, there is certainly a time and place for it. My daughter started losing birds to coons, and we did two things.....we fortified the coop to make it harder to get in, and when they persisted in coming back for more (they had already gotten two birds), we trapped those problem animals out (all 4 of them). No more losses since.
 
Hey Howard, thanks for the input.

By the way, I just went through the post you recommended. That was a great post, thanks!

The video was outstanding, I've never tried cat food, I'll keep that in mind. I know I have possums too, but haven't caught any yet.

If there's no chance of nighttime losses, I think the tractors too strong for those, do you think I'm going have daytime attacks?

And if so, what predator is most likely raccoon, possum, fox, or something else?

Is there any particular way the attack would be launched, or tactics the predator might use I might thwart?

Were y'alls losses, night or day?

I've got one rooster who's pretty mean, and pretty big. He's good at keeping them under cover from hawks.

I like giving the chickens the run of the place, I'd hate to fence them, they roam about 3 acres with the yard included. Can they out run, or fly up into a tree, to avoid a predator, if attacked?

I agree with you, I'm definitely vulnerable during the day, I do leave my Jack Russell out with them some during the day.

I haven't had any losses, since we started free ranging last July, but I know you can go years, then lose an entire flock. Free ranging means you've got to accept the fact there can be losses.

By the way, Howard no knows the history of chicken structures better than you. I've gotten an automatic pop door for the tractor (I'm choking the door size to 6 inches wide x 10 inches tall).

Since daytime is my vulnerability, what do you think of the pop door being 4 feet off the ground, with a perch bar extending out from the door and tractor, say three feet.

Any precedent for that as a deterrent (not fool proof of course), since the birds will have to fly up to enter the tractor during the day (they go back to lay, eat, and get water). Certainly it'll stop dogs, but 4 feet a fox can probably jump, and raccoon and possum can climb the hardware cloth, to get on the perch.

Here's an aerial photo of the area around my house the chickens roam. Thanks again for your thoughts Howard.

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The south end of the tractor where I'm proposing the elevated pop door.
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Is it possible an elevated pop door could train the birds to be better flyers, making better them better at avoiding predators in general?
 
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Go to the BYC survey on "worst predators" and the two worst by far are dogs and raccoons. I see these as the primary day and night threats.

Coons tend to follow "Omega Man" rules (named for the movie of the same name) where it was safe to roam about during the day, but you better be locked up in your fortress at night. So coons tend to be nocturnal. Sometimes you see them out in the day, but not often. More likely, if they deviate from normal, they will linger late after dawn or show up early at or even before dusk.

I'm not a fan of automatic doors for that reason. I manually let my birds out in the morning and lock them up at dusk after conducting a head count. I believe I remember someone posting once that a fox had figured out the timing of when the auto door would open and was present to win. Door opened, it grabbed a bird and ran. They can't do that when you are the one opening the door. Well, they could, but they would get shot if they did. So that kind of smart genetics is not going to be a trait that gets passed on.

But doors aside, a tight coop like your tractor is going to defeat them. Once inside that, they are safe. Can't break in, can't dig in and can't wiggle in. Safe.

When looking at the big picture photo, I can spot 20 places where the dogs are going to come from that are the real threat to your free ranging birds. Dogs, plus any foxes, bobcats, lynx, coyotes and who knows what else lurking in the woods. Those can all be daytime predators. That is where the electric fence comes in. It sets up a perimeter to stop traffic into the protected zone during the day. You can make that as large as you want, but for starters, I'd start with just the backyard.

Pastured birds like to roam, but don't need as much space as they will take. One acre can easily sustain 50 birds with no issues. They will want cover, food and a green space/home base to hang out, but given that, they will be OK.
 
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Thanks Howard! Good thoughts!

What do you think about the raised pop door, I'm pretty sure that'll defeat daytine dogs, but only if the bird happens to be in the tractor during the day, which isn't that common, usually ones or two's going to the nest box.

Let me know if you think I'm making a mistake on the fly in pop door.

It's so funny, I'll do a bunch of research, only to realize, you've already done it! Thanks!
 
BTW, if I was going to suggest and area for you to enclose with the electric fence, it would be the area where your tractor is now. It appears to already have a fence. Tricky part might be the side next to the woods to the extent any trees allow varmints to climb over a fence by using the canopy of the trees as their personal highway. Or worries about tree leaves, sticks, branches, etc falling on the fence to knock it down, short it out.

But I ran a fence through a section of my woods to use on some horses and debris, etc. was never a problem. Easier, actually, as the area was shaded and had less grass and weeds to fight.

My 4 wire fence could easily be upped to 5 or 6 to keep most predators out.

In such an area you can easily multiply the area they will use by mowing alternate strips inside the protected area to give them edge cover. Large expanses of lawn area cropped short are dead zones for chickens. The same area, with alternate rows of tall grass, weeds, brush, etc that are allowed to grow up are rich with bugs, green forage and provide cover from hawks. Half the area can provide twice the benefit if you manage it right.
 
That's a great idea Howard, I'll definitely not do a straight cut on that field this year, strips wouldn't have occurred to me.

You're right, they don't prefer the field for grazing, which is low cut right now, and spend way more time in other parts of the yard.

By May, the grass in the field will be almost waist high. Do you think that tall grass will harbor predators, and give the predators cover to approach close to the flock?

Like most people, I probably won't go with an electric fence until I experience some losees.
 

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