help identifying rooster breed? juvenile , rescued

Discussion in 'What Breed Or Gender is This?' started by thorton, Mar 27, 2015.

  1. thorton

    thorton Hatching

    Mar 12, 2015
    This fella has come to live with me at the ranch.
    He was running around my aunts neighborhood for a month or so, waking everyone up at odd hours of the night.
    He made home in her garage before I went to pick him up. He is super friendly and loves cats! He rubs and even lays with the cats. My aunt has asked around the neighborhood and Noone claims him.

    He has been in a fight with another larger rooster that has also shown up in the neighborhood. So he has scabs on his comb, which apear to be healing fine.

    This is my first rooster, and I plan to put him in a 40ft by 20ft square pen with my 7 hens. The hens have never been with a rooster, so this will be a first.

    Any tips for things to check for on him prior to placing him with my flock?
    Also is there a reason why roosters cro at anytime of the day. He seems to cro quite often. Which doesn't bother me, just curious what it means?

    My ultimate question is what breed is he?
    I've looked up similar pictures but none I am sure of.

    Thank you! [​IMG]
    (Temporary cage with food and water until placed in a new pen)
  2. chooks4life

    chooks4life Crowing

    Apr 8, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  3. Wyandottes7

    Wyandottes7 Crowing

    Jul 24, 2013
    Chooks4Life has given you some excellent advice! He looks like a mixed breed cockerel to me.
  4. BantamLover21

    BantamLover21 Crowing

    Jul 24, 2013
  5. thorton

    thorton Hatching

    Mar 12, 2015
    Thank you! This is all a learning process, I'm trying to do as much homework on raising my chickens.
    I've spend most of the morning putting shade over his new pen. he's going to spend some time there before being put with my hens.
    The pens are withing ear shot of each other and both the hens and Cockerel are making tons of noise. I love him and noises he makes! It's time to name him!

    My local feed store only had Wazine 17 wormer. Should I look into getting something different? I plan to worm my hens also.

    As far as breed, I'm perfectly fine with a mix, mutt breed. I think he's beautiful. I just like to know what to explain to curious visitors.
    I have never breed or raised chick's from eggs, but now I might since he's drown the flock. (Still need to do more homework or breeding)

    Of course this is all for hobby and having fresh eggs.

    Thank you for taking the time to explain.
  6. Michael OShay

    Michael OShay Crowing

    May 14, 2014
  7. chooks4life

    chooks4life Crowing

    Apr 8, 2013
    You're very welcome.

    You sound like you've got things sorted already, keeping him separate for a while as they get used to one another and while you do some 'homework'. :)

    I would suggest putting one of your least-fiesty hens in with him to begin with, whenever you're ready, to 'set the tone'. (Along with a handful of some food they really like). I'd leave her in with him for a full day probably, and maybe add a second hen in the second day, maybe let the first ones out as you gradually introduce more, until they've all met him and had time to sort out their social structure.

    That's playing it super-careful and is unnecessary for the majority of cases, but it can help prevent some problems. Like if you have a very dominant hen, with no prior experience with roosters she may perceive his behaviors as being those of another dominant hen and fight him for alpha status; introducing them one on one, or in small groups, can help potential issues be resolved quickly without it becoming a gang-fight or bullying issue.

    (None of that may occur even if you just let him out one day with no preamble, it may well be totally fine to do that, but if you feel like playing it extra-careful, that'd be one way. Just an option).

    Before doing this I would also feed him in full sight of the hens, myself, to bring them to his cage and give him a chance to 'tidbit' and hopefully help stir the appropriate reaction in them. Instincts can become dormant due to lack of stimulation, and can take a bit of repeated stimulation to recover.

    If your hens have never seen a rooster, and were not raised with roosters, their reaction can be as though he is another hen, meaning that his attempts to court them, and mate, can be received as attacks which can rapidly degenerate into a status fight where naturally there never should have been any conflict.

    Contrary to some ideas of chicken society, adult males and females don't naturally fight over who's alpha; there's an alpha male (who fights over that title with other males only) and an alpha female (who fights over that title with other females only), but raising them without their natural family unit and gender-segregated can lead to diminished instinct, and social manners having not been learned, which all vastly increases the chances of there being violence instead of cohesion. Such roosters and hens will often fight one another.

    Anyway, not saying this to worry you, just try to help things work out peacefully. I dare say by the fact that he's so young and has been dumped, he was probably one of a group and raised with pullets but discarded once he began crowing, so he at least should have an idea how to treat females. Your females may be the main issue there. But, hopefully all goes well, you're doing all you can in giving them time first.

    I'm very partial to 'mutts' myself, I enjoy the variability, a surprise in each generation, watching the genes interplay, not having to see only micro-differences between each generation of uniformly colored and shaped chooks. All your chooks looking identical is good for some, just not for me.

    About the wormer, I've only used natural wormers for my chooks, so I can't advise you on Wazine, though back when I started with a few other species I did use conventional wormers (on dogs, cats and sheep)... Since then I've only used natural ones, they do work but it takes a bit of homework to make it effective. The same is true for artificial wormers too though. You'd need to get some idea of how prevalent resistance to the over-the-counter wormers are in your region in order to not just be adding to their resistance, for example, and some you are not allowed to ever use in animals whose meat or eggs will be consumed by humans. That doesn't stop a lot of people using them and still using the meat and eggs but it's still clearly not a good idea.

    I think for newbies it may be better to use chemical ones to begin with because controlling parasites naturally is a bit different, a bit longer term and labor intensive, though I couldn't describe it as actual work, lol. My normal regime involves regular dosage of some things like cayenne, garlic, etc, but for new animals I bring in that have a heavy burden of parasites I use things like wormwood, which can be dangerous in overdose. Some natural wormers will also kill capillary worms and other sorts that can't easily be killed through things like cayenne in the diet, but it may be a bit more 'homework' for a newbie than they're ready for. ;)

    A great first start for intestinal parasites, even if you're going to use a conventional wormer as well, is cayenne pepper or tabasco sauce. You can use olive oil or yoghurt to bind it to wholemeal bread or mix it in with hardboiled egg or something else they like, and give that to them once a day. Doesn't have to be more than once a week really, but given preferably before the full moon, because worms (parasitic and otherwise) tend to have a reproductive cycle that strongly corresponds to the moon (circalunar cycles) so worming as the moon is growing towards being full is far more likely to kill the maximum amount of parasites and their eggs as they move into the intestines to breed.

    Depending on what you're worming with, any day, or even every day, in the week before the full moon is ideal, but anytime within the two weeks (one prior to and one after the full moon) is good too.

    Even some people that use chemical/artificial wormers do this as well, not just those who use herbs, because while you can worm anytime and kill the worms anywhere in the body, their corpses remaining lodged in the organs of the host and rotting there, rather than being passed out with the feces, is potentially fatal to the animal you've wormed, so it's better to do it while they've moved into the bowels where they can be easily eliminated after death, and where their eggs can also be destroyed along with them.

    For advice on chemical wormers your local livestock produce store can probably help, so can a lot of people on this forum of course. Casportpony (Kathy) and Dawg53 are two people very up to date on 'chemical'/conventional wormers.

    Best wishes and good luck with them.

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