Help Replacing Dickey electronic thermostat with the GQF Electronic Thermostat No. 3255

[showgun]

I have a Dickey incubator with electronic thermostat and wafer backup and and I would like to replace it wit a new GQF Electronic Thermostat No. 3255 110v AC/400W with plug which I got a few years back for a spare part to eventually replace the thermostat when times comes.

Time has arrived and I am not sure if this can be done or how and would appreciated help and guidance I am including a few picks hoping this GQF thermostat can be connected to this using wafer as backup if not how do I connect it?
Looked at other threads but just nothing specific enough and I do not want to ruin the thermostat <LOL>
Thanks

 

[PD-Riverman]

The electronic thermostat has to be powered--- so the black and white wires are hooked directly to the 120 volt wires that come in---meaning you will have to take the top or back off the incubator to get to those wires. The Green wire is the switch wire and goes to the heater strip.(Actually the green wire is the wire that goes direct to the wire that goes to the heater strip, then the white wire hooks to the second wire, but you still got to get in the back for the hook-ups) To hook up the wafer as a back-up to make sure the incubator does not get to hot should the electronic thermostat get defective----you just wire it in series with the green wire. After you get it wired you turn the electronic thermostat up high--103-104 and back and adjust the wafer to where the incubator gets around 102---when its steady---make sure the wafer is lock down and should never be turned again unless their is a problem years from now. Then adjust the electronic thermostat to 99.5(if that's where you want it) and you will be good to go!

 

[showgun]

Where I get confuse is when you state
" The electronic thermostat has to be powered--- so the black and white wires are hooked directly to the 120 volt wires that come in---meaning you will have to take the top or back off the incubator to get to those wires"
But those 3 wires on the pic Blue Black from the metal box and the white from the wafer, were all connected to the dickey electronic thermostat and everything was working.
So I am assuming the old Dickey thermostat had to be powered as well and that two of those wire are for the 120 and the other for the thermostat?
Which I would assume it would be the white wire coming out / connected to the wafer? which I should wire to the green wire of the new thermostat connection?

 

[PD-Riverman]

I can not see what is coming out the metal box----from the angle of the pic, BUT the wire color of those has Nothing to do with this hook up.
The wafer thermostats at JUST a switch, breaking the wire going to the heater strip. With the electronic thermostat it has to have a hot and a neutral wire----straight from the plug wire inside to make it Operate----do its electronic stuff. Then the green wire is the switch leg that goes to the heat strip.

 

[PD-Riverman]

I can not see what is coming out the metal box----from the angle of the pic, BUT the wire color of those has Nothing to do with this hook up.
The wafer thermostats at JUST a switch, breaking the wire going to the heater strip. With the electronic thermostat it has to have a hot and a neutral wire----straight from the plug wire inside to make it Operate----do its electronic stuff. Then the green wire is the switch leg that goes to the heat strip.

The wafer should have 2 wires going to it----but I can not see which one blue or black comes out the back of the wafer or even if it does?

 

[PD-Riverman]

From the pic I can see a black wire hooked to the heater coil----bottom right of the fan----so the black wire----if its coming out that metal box probably goes to that heating coil. But here is the deal-----you got to get in the back to where the wires are to get the black and white wires from this new thermostat hooked in the right place. Did the thermostat come with wiring instructions?

 

[PD-Riverman]

Just for info----don't think of the extra wafer thermostat yet Lets get the electronic one hooked up and All it requires is one extra wire from the power wire(115/120 volts) more than you had---just one more wire.

 

[showgun]

Let's back up for a minutes and lets do a step by step here
1) Does the Dickey Electronic thermostat need the 120 connected to it to work?

2) If yes than 2 out of the 3 wires on the pics are for the 120.
all I should have to do is test the wire with a meter?

PS there are actually 5 wire coming out that metal box
Black and the blue which are loose
than a white one which connects to the Wafer and comes out loose at the other side of the wafer as seen
and two small black wire which connects to the red flashing light that shows the thermostat is running

 

[featherhead007]

dang! wish i was there for you I could fix that in 10 minutes... spent 19 years as master engineer Disney World Wide Services.... im raising poultry pets too!

 

[PD-Riverman]

Let's back up for a minutes and lets do a step by step here
1) Does the Dickey Electronic thermostat need the 120 connected to it to work?

2) If yes than 2 out of the 3 wires on the pics are for the 120.
all I should have to do is test the wire with a meter?

PS there are actually 5 wire coming out that metal box
Black and the blue which are loose
than a white one which connects to the Wafer and comes out loose at the other side of the wafer as seen
and two small black wire which connects to the red flashing light that shows the thermostat is running

OK, I actually missed the dickey electronic thermostat mentioned in your first post. The Dickey electronic had to be powered too. Ok if everything if factory----hook the green wire on the new wire to the white wire coming out the wafer towards the front----hook the black wire to the black wire and the white wire to the blue wire. Should put you in business.

If you got a volt meter and want to double check first---the black and blue wire should have 120 volts on it when you plug the cord in.