In need of some input on my coop/run. Picture and text heavy.

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by Ch1ckPea, Jun 19, 2019.

  1. Ch1ckPea

    Ch1ckPea In the Brooder

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    Jun 10, 2019
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    Hi! First off, thanks for everything I’ve already learned from you guys just by lurking around here. I did that thing I’m not supposed to do, I bought baby chicks before my coop and run were done. They are only 3 days old, so we should have enough time if we get on it soon! I have this sweet shed I am planning to convert, but I have next to no construction experience, nor does my husband, so feel free to speak to me like I’m a child! We do have access to tons of tools, all kinds of saws, all kinds of scrap wood, old windows, etc. We just moved in with my elderly grandmother to assist her after my woodworking/collector grandpa passed away, so we’ve got lots at our disposal.

    I’ll put all my questions at the end for ease, also I appreciate any feedback otherwise! And blind guesses on what chicks I have! Got an assortment of 10 from Meyer (half rare breed, half rainbow) plus Meal Maker.

    First, baby chick tax.
    upload_2019-6-19_17-48-0.jpeg

    The shed in question:
    upload_2019-6-19_17-49-19.jpeg
    upload_2019-6-19_17-50-28.jpeg

    It has metal siding and roof and is lined with plywood inside and has a plywood floor. Groundhogs have dug under and I can see it’s up on cinderblocks. (Working on eliminating groundhogs and will replace dirt) No pics of inside as it still needs to be cleared out but overall it seems pretty weather-proof.

    Now, the plans I have drawn up for it. The shed is 7.5’x10.5’ on the outside and I plan to make the run 10.5x12 off the left side as you are facing the door. I’d like to put one of those wire walls I see so often on here about 3 ft inside the door of the shed for storage.

    upload_2019-6-19_17-56-28.jpeg

    Front:
    upload_2019-6-19_17-59-50.jpeg

    upload_2019-6-19_18-0-46.png

    Side of shed that indicates how I want to do ventilation. Basically, holes right under the eaves, covered in hardware cloth but always open. Both sides of shed. I live in Southern MO. This will give me about 10-12 square feet of vent not including the 2x2 windows front and back. Plan to close those up in the winter.
    upload_2019-6-19_18-4-7.jpeg

    Ok, brace yourself, here comes the questions.

    How exactly will I cut these vents and the hole in the back? Should I take off the metal panels and just chop six inches off the top and replace, same with the plywood on the inside? Do I cut it while it’s still attached to the building? I don’t know if there will be studs between the metal and plywood or not. How will I seal that gap between the metal and plywood? Expanding foam? Cutting wood to fasten longways between the vertical pieces? Like I said, we have all kinds of tools, I saw something that looked like power tin snips. This is the part that is stressing me the most.

    Can I just cover the windows in hardware cloth from the inside, then staple over heavy duty plastic in the winter? We do get down to 0F occasionally in the winter.

    If anybody knows of a great tutorial or video on how to build doors, please link me. We will need a new solid one for the coop and a mesh one for the run.

    If I wanted to save a little money, could I cover the whole run in welded wire, then only the bottom portion and the apron with hardware cloth? How far up does the hardware cloth need to go? I’ve read 2 or 3 feet. Don’t want to cut corners on safety so if we have to we will do all hardware cloth.

    Any ideas how I can connect the top of the run to the top of the coop?

    Really appreciate your help!
     
    Wee Farmer Sarah likes this.
  2. jthornton

    jthornton Crowing

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    Poplar Bluff, MO
    My Coop
    The vent idea looks good but the run on the side will be bad because rain from the roof will flood the run. Trying to tie the run structure to the roof will be a royal pain. I would build the run with a roof off the back and make it a bit taller than the shed and let the run roof overlap the shed. That way the run can be as wide as you want. There almost has to be some kind of stud between the metal and the plywood I assume is on the inside. Pictures of the inside if you can.

    You should put your location in your profile so it's always there.

    In the southern Missouri winter you need draft free ventilation, so your ideas are sound.

    Oh and you better get crackin they grow like weeds!

    JT
     
  3. Ch1ckPea

    Ch1ckPea In the Brooder

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    Jun 10, 2019
    SW Missouri
    Thanks! I went ahead and put my location in my profile. I’ll have to think on the run problem. There is a garden growing directly behind and I’d rather not ruin that. I had considered having the run share a side with the fence we are currently building around the garden so I may revisit that idea.
     
    Wee Farmer Sarah likes this.
  4. Ch1ckPea

    Ch1ckPea In the Brooder

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    Jun 10, 2019
    SW Missouri
    Got some pics of the inside. It did not have plywood up as I had remembered but we’ve got enough here to put some up. This will give us a good chance to map out from the inside.

    upload_2019-6-19_20-1-38.jpeg

    Can the vents come a few inches under where the eaves stop? The way the studs are would block us from putting the holes all the way under the eave.
     
    Wee Farmer Sarah likes this.
  5. Ch1ckPea

    Ch1ckPea In the Brooder

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    Jun 10, 2019
    SW Missouri
    Here is the back of the shed. I’m thinking I will start the run from the back of the building and continue it toward where I am standing as I take this picture, making it one side of the garden fence.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Steven Bussell

    Steven Bussell Songster

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    Great bones to start with. If it was me I would cut a to 12" by 16" vents at both ends..it would be quicker and easier to do the bigger ones. You should get a good cross breeze coming in
     
    Wee Farmer Sarah and Ch1ckPea like this.
  7. jthornton

    jthornton Crowing

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    Aug 30, 2017
    Poplar Bluff, MO
    My Coop
    Looking at the inside I'd put a large vent in the front door and in the back above the wall.

    Something to consider the run does not have to be part of the shed, you only need a secure connection between the shed and the run at the pop door ie a chicken tunnel. If your planing on putting pine chips in the shed I'd make the pop door about 8" or so above the floor so they don't kick the shavings out.

    JT
     
  8. Ch1ckPea

    Ch1ckPea In the Brooder

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    Jun 10, 2019
    SW Missouri
    That plus windows on either side?



    Oh, good point about the chicken tunnel, hadn’t considered that. I like the idea of using their run as one side of the garden fence though, maybe in the future we can extend it around a second side.
     
    jthornton and Wee Farmer Sarah like this.
  9. Wee Farmer Sarah

    Wee Farmer Sarah Free Ranging

    Sounds like you are off to a good start. As far as wire for the run: IMHO I wholeheartedly recommend at the very least 19 gauge HC. Predators and mice can wiggle in through 1 inch openings. I have a groundhog in my "neighborhood" and he / she has plowed right through lesser grade wire when your back is turned. I put HC on all sides and bottom of my run and the chipmunks or mice tunnel under that. However, they haven't broke into the run so far. Also a covered run is best so your flock can hang outside of the coop when it's raining or snowing. It also keeps the run drier. Best of luck with your flock and build. I'm curious about those power tin snips. Can you take a picture? One last thing: when sealing the windows, make sure your chickens can't get to the sealant. They will eat it or at least try to.
     
    wyochick10, Ch1ckPea and jthornton like this.
  10. aart

    aart Chicken Juggler!

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    SW Michigan
    My Coop
    No need for more plywood under roof.......we need to see the eave area inside without a shelf in the way.

    Whenever I see a gambrel roof I want to do this to it:
    upload_2019-6-20_10-19-41.png
     

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