INCUBATING w/FRIENDS! w/Sally Sunshine Shipped Eggs No problem!

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Sally Sunshine

cattywampus
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Incubation Notes, Images, Videos & Links
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Expected Hatch Rate
Don’t count your chickens before they are hatched, or even after for that matter!
Shipped eggs have a MUCH lower hatch rate.
The percent hatchability in the commercial poultry industry ranges from 78-88%.


Shipped Eggs = Change Of Plans!
Protocol for shipped eggs CLICK HERE
REQUEST HOW YOU WANT YOUR eggs SHIPPED !!!!
HOW TO REQUEST AND SHIP EGGS Sally Sunshine Way...
HOWTOREQUESTANDSHIPEGGSSallySunshineWay.pdf
Unpacking & USPS Reimbursements SHIPPED EGGS.pdf

Don't forget to request cold or heat packs according to weather to and from!


Percent Fertility is the percentage of fertile eggs of all eggs set.
% Fertility = # of fertile eggs
# of total eggs set

Percent Hatchability
is the percentage of fertile eggs which actually hatched out as live young.
% Hatchability = # of eggs which hatch out
# of fertile eggs
More info for above see this pdf

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Choosing an incubator
Many different styles of incubators are available, most common are Styrofoam types found at most feed stores. These incubators hold more eggs and are usually less expensive, but they require more involvement in the hatching process. Egg turners are usually optional that can be added for convenience. There are also some great “hands free” incubators, commercial incubators as well as Simple Inexpensive Homemade Incubators. We make “Coolerbators” they work 100% better than our store bought incubator because it has less than .5 degree variance and we have very successful hatches in it!​

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HELP How do I decide on an incubator?
Still air or forced air incubator? There are 2 main types of incubator. Still air and forced air. The difference is simply a fan. In forced air incubators, a fan circulates the air around the incubator which keeps the temperature constant in all parts of the incubator. The temperature can be measured anywhere within the airflow. In a still air incubator, there is no fan, the heat stratifies (forms layers) inside the incubator so the temperature is different between the top and bottom of the incubator. Poultry Keeper Choosing the Right Incubator CLICK HERE
Incubator warehouse.com Egg Incubator Buyers Guide CLICK HERE

LOCATION OF INCUBATOR
Locate your incubator in a room in which temperature is 70 degrees, free from drafts, away from windows and direct sunlight.
Did you know that the Incubating practice originated more than 2,500 years ago in Egypt and China. Methods of incubation were kept secret for a long time. In Europe attempts to use incubation are known from the 14th century. Owing to the imperfection of incubation apparatus (casks submerged in rotted manure, bakers’ ovens, and so on) and inadequate study of the conditions of incubation, it did not become common. Only since the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, with the invention of better incubators, has incubation become widely used in Europe and the USA; since the middle of the 20th century it has been the principal method of propagating poultry.



Collection, Washing & Storage of Eggs

Choose eggs that are of good size, not abnormally big or small. Do NOT set dirty, cracked, or porous eggs. Clinical studies at the University of Arkansas have shown that if your going to set a dirty egg, set the dirty egg, DO NOT SAND, WASH OR WIPE dirty eggs as hatchability decreases with these practices!

Cuticula is the thin membrane that covers the whole eggshell that is made from the sticky fluid when laid which covers it and quickly dissolves due to carbondioxyde activity.This membrane can be penetrated by gasses but functions as a kind defensive mechanism to prevent the entry of bacteria.

The washing and rubbing action also serves to force disease organisms through the pores of the shell. Place the eggs upright in an egg carton with the FAT, air cell end of the egg UP! Allow eggs to sit in a moderately cool, somewhat humid place for storage. Basements are great. Moderately cool means 55-65 degrees. Rotate your eggs a 3 times a day to keep the embryo from sticking. An easy way to turn all of the eggs at once is to place a thick book under one end of the carton, and later remove the book and put it under the other end of the carton, 3 times a day. Before adding eggs to the incubator always WARM eggs UP slowly to room temperature. IF THE EGGS ARE COLD Condensation can cause bacterial growth on the eggs! You can collect eggs up until 10 days or so, but after the 7th day lower hatch rates may result. Stored eggs take longer to hatch (about one hour per day of storage).


It is important to ALWAYS wash your hands before handling your hatching eggs!
Omphalitis, yolk sack infection is caused by a bacterium that enters through the porous egg shell and easily kills embryo's and newly hatched chicks. Unfortunately, incubation conditions are ideal for breeding bacteria as well as incubating eggs. For more information on storing eggs refer to Recommendations for hatching egg handling and storage


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If you MUST store longer than 10 days...
"When eggs were stored in the small-end-up position for 2 to 4 weeks, it was, NOT beneficial to turn them daily as had been previously demonstrated to be advantageous for eggs stored small-end-down."

CONCLUSIONS: ABSTRACT CLICK HERE
"When eggs were held in storage, the small-end-up pack position without turning, their hatchability was equal to or better than that of eggs packed small-end-down. When eggs were stored in the small-end-up position for 2 to 4 weeks, it was, not beneficial to turn them daily as had been previously demonstrated to be advantageous for eggs stored small-end-down. Thus, the inconvenience and expense of daily turning can be avoided without loss. Evidence is also provided that hatchability was equally good whether eggs were stored on their sides and turned through 180° daily or stored small-end-up without positional change."


TIP: Use your turners during storage!
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SANITIZING/WASHING EGGS
Most commercial hatcheries sanitize their eggs. There are differences of opinions about how to sanitize eggs, if you feel they need to be. Some experts advocate washing and even lightly scrubbing eggs with soft brushes. Others feel that the most that should be done is dipping for a few seconds. Because of the varying opinions on sanitizing eggs, the following is an opinion of Brower and not necessarily a hard and fast recommendation. Accomplish sanitizing by dipping eggs in solution containing disinfectant that is just strong enough to kill bacteria and viruses. However, the disinfectant should not be so strong as to damage the embryos.

Mix the sanitizing solution according to the manufacturers' instruction. A recommended cleaning solution is Tex-Trol. TexTrol may be available at a local retail outlet. For the name of a retailer search for it online. If using Tex-Trol, mix one half ounce of concentrated disinfectant to one gallon of warm water. You can also use 1 ounce of Clorox to 2 gallons of water. The water should be 100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit (37° to 44°C). If the egg is warmer than the solution, contamination can be pulled through the pores of the egg before the agent has a chance to neutralize any pathogens.. Submerge the eggs for one to three minutes with dirtier eggs left in solution longer than ones that essentially look clean. Allow the eggs to air dry at room temperature and store as described above--or set in your incubator. A soft paper tissue can be used to dry the eggs but don’t rub the egg with a tissue or any material. Eggs have a natural protective cuticle that helps retard contamination. Rubbing removes the cuticle and can actually drive pathogens through the shell.

(1 Tablespoon = 3 Teaspoons per gal )

Sanitizing solution of chlorine (bleach) 6% hypochlorite and water at a concentration of 100 ppm (parts per million) = To make a100 ppm chlorine solution, combine 2 ml. (1/2 tsp.) of bleach with one quart of water.
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The Cuticle removal
i
n hatching eggs as a means to reduce weight loss: Has actually been found to increase embryo weight during incubation and has direct relationship between rate of egg water loss, embryonic metabolism, and growth during incubation. But that warning of contamination is there if you don't follow cleaning procedures correctly. Chlorine treated eggs were not altered either. So with all that it is found that cuticle removal can be an effective method for increasing growth and egg weight loss.

Preventing ‘sweating’ eggs is IMPORTANT! Prior to EGG placement in the incubator, place the eggs at a room temperature for several hours.


'Sweating' of eggs refers to the phenomenon of condensed water sitting on the egg shell surface. This occurs when cold eggs are suddenly exposed to a higher environmental temperature. The warm air with a certain moisture content cools down rapidly directly around the colder eggs. Since cold air contains less water than warm air, relative humidity will increase until the air is saturated. And at that moment, condensation will take place on the cool egg surface.


Is it Fertile or Infertile?
To check the fertility, simply break an egg in a bowl, Find the white spot on the yolk. If you do not, use a spoon to gently flip the yolk over until you find it. If it has a Bulls eye look it is fertile. A true fertile egg contains a well developed germinal disc (blastoderm), which indicates that the oöcyte, or zygote, was fertilized and an embryo developed during egg formation.
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Fertility:
Clears at CANDLE are not always infertile! CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFO

Record Keeping
Accurate and detailed records are very important in incubation. In addition to records of individual eggs it is important to keep records of the temperature and the humidity, so that trends in temperature and humidity may be detected early and can be corrected for next hatch.
Sorry the new BYC wont allow me to add an excel file as seen above



Incubation PERIODS/TIME Chart
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Areas of MOST IMPORTANCE in Hatching EGGS

Ventilation (Oxygen), Temperature, Humidity, Egg Turning/Positioning


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VENTILATION (OXYGEN)
Ventilation is VERY important during the incubation process.
While the embryo is developing, oxygen enters the egg through the shell and carbon dioxide escapes. Oxygen requirements will increases during development and during hatching. Unobstructed ventilation holes, both above and below the eggs, are essential for proper air exchange. REMOVE RED VENT PLUGS, TOO MANY PEOPLE FORGET TO REMOVE THEM AT DAY 10! NOTE: When Lockdown occurs, vent openings are frequently restricted in an attempt to boost incubator humidity. Instead of helping the chick hatch, the chick is suffocated from lack of oxygen. Never decrease ventilation openings at hatching in an attempt to increase humidity. Increase humidity by other methods. If any vent adjustments are made, they should be opened more. Try adding a dampened sponge or towel to help boost humidity during lockdown.
Hatching at High Altitudes post #37908
THINGS TO READ: O2 deprivation to day 10 of incubation followed by regular oxygen concentrations leads to stronger chicks post #33815


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TEMPERATURE
CALIBRATE CALIBRATE!!

Never trust the thermometer that comes with the incubator, always check it.
This could mean life or death for your babies.

ALWAYS run your bator a few days first for watching its temp swings
TIP: There are ALWAYS Uneven temps in bators
so rotate egg placement at each candle!

Did you know "The yolk is orange and on its surface is a visible germinal disc; radiating from this area is the more watery white yolk, which is less dense. During turning, the yolk’s structure makes the part containing the germinal disc stay most dorsal (closest to the incubating bird) for heating"

With a Forced Air Incubator (fan model) you can get the best hatch rate by keeping the temperature at 100º F - 100.5. throughout days 1-18 and NEVER LET IT GO BELOW 99.8!!! Watch for evening temp flux! Lockdown day lower to 99.5 and when first external pip shows lower to 98.5 degrees!

HOWEVER, when using a Still Air incubator (no fan) at 102º F. The reason for different temperatures is that with a fan model the circulating air warms all around the egg while still air temperatures are warmer at the top of the egg than at the bottom.​

Tips:
ADD a LEGO to your dial of cheap styro bator to make minor adjustments!
GENIUS @BantyChooks

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ZONES OF COLD INJURY fro EMBRYONIC DEVELOPMENT
CLICK HERE
What to do when you find a HIGH TEMPS in Bator CLICK HERE
10/13 day old embryos begin to produce excess heat in the incubator CLICK HERE

WHERE TO SET YOUR THERMOMETER
The temperature is measured at the level where the embryos develop (at the top of the HORIZONTAL egg). NOTE:If the eggs are in vertical position, elevate the thermometer just below the top of the egg. The temperature is measured at the level where the embryos develop (at the top of the egg). Never allow the thermometer to touch the eggs or incubator because incorrect readings can result. A high temperature tends to produce early hatches. A consistently cooler temperature tends to increase incubation times and produce weakened chicks. In both cases the total chicks hatched will be reduced. Prepare your incubator and run it for several days before adding eggs, to be positive you are maintaining correct incubation temperature.

NOTE: It is common that when adding eggs the temperature will drop but should come back up to correct temperature within an hour or two. Don’t rest the thermometer's bulb touching the eggs or the incubator. Incorrect readings will result.

TIPS:
Probe thermometer & water weasel (Water Wiggler, Water Snake) found on Amazon or Ebay make for EXCELLENT internal temp guides! The perfect internal temperature of an embryo is 99.5 degrees. If you can't find a water wiggler you can make your own with ziplock filled with water folded in half and insert the probe in the center middle.


Thermo/hygro suggestions CLICK HERE
HEAT SINKS/ Stones/Pebbles ADD THEM TO STYRO!post #43903
Calibration is a MUST: HOW TO CALIBRATE post #9068

MAJOR TIP...

HAVE A PLAN IN CASE YOU LOOSE ELECTRIC post #522
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HUMIDITY

The Air Bubble in the Egg,
Weight Loss in the egg is where most fail with incubation,

next being temp issues and not having calibrated thermos and hygros!
"HUMIDITY IS NOT A SET NUMBER EVER!"
Humidity it a "tool" to get the correct weight loss!

DO NOT GO WITH WHAT YOUR INCUBATOR INSTRUCTIONS SUGGEST!!
DRY HATCH incubation DOES NOT MEAN RUN DRY! It is not only the final size of the air cell that matters, but also the time it takes to form. In the first ten days of incubation, the embryo is small and floats in the amniotic fluid. Weight loss during this phase is mainly the effect of water evaporating from albumen and internal liquids. After this stage, changes occur quickly: the growing embryo gradually fills the egg, excepting the air cell. Low RH set points at days 14-18 of incubation increase evaporation from the allantois – and once the allantois is emptied of fluid, moisture will be drawn from the embryo, causing its dehydration.
The average chicken egg has thousands of pores running through the shell allowing the embryo to exchange oxygen, carbon dioxide. and water. Soon after an egg is laid, a small air bubble or “air cell” forms in the large end of the egg from this water loss. Humidity levels in the incubator determine moisture evaporation during the 21 days of incubation and hatching. The air cell is crucial for the chick to break out of the egg shell at the end of the incubation period. The chick can drown if the air cell is too small or the chick may be retarded in growth if the air cell is too large. This is why maintaining the proper humidity is crucial. Slightly lower humidity levels are more likely to be less disastrous than slightly higher humidity levels. There are quite a few opinions on Humidity, but it is no set number.
images

AGAIN....
Humidity is NOT A SET NUMBER, you need it YES!,

However, you use it as a tool to "adjust" egg weight loss during incubation.
We candle on days 7,10,14,18 To WATCH WEIGHT LOSS IN EVERY EGG!
After day 7 its good to keep a closer eye on weight loss via weighing OR watching air cells!
An EGG MUST lose approximately 14%-15 of its weight during the incubation process. THIS IS YOUR GOAL!! You can monitor this by marking Air cells and also by weighing. Please refer to CANDLING section of this Article for more Air Cell info.
View attachment 1877975

pic above Size of air cell on day 7, 14, and 18 of incubation


MEASURE WEIGHT LOSS IN EGGS,
I choose the easier method, keeping a close eye on air cell growth during incubation. You begin by ONLY adding a small amount of water and keep Humidity between 20%-30% and adjusting as you weigh or candle depending on moisture loss. IN SOME AREAS OF THE COUNTRY YOU MAY NOT NEED TO ADD ANY WATER! USE IT AS A TOOL FOR THE CORRECT WEIGHT LOSS IN THE EGG! So if your air cells look too large at each candle period you must add some humidity, too small air cell lower it, and if your weighing you adjust as needed. UNTIL DAY 18 LOCKDOWNthen stop turning and raise humidity to 65-70%. I will post more about weighing eggs later in the candle and set section!


Views of Day 18 Candle..... click to enlarge
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How Does a Hygrometer Work?
http://weather.about.com/od/weatherinstruments/a/hygrometers.htm

Shown here is a WET Bulb Hygrometer and wick
Wet bulb is exactly what it states. It is the temperature relative of the humidity in degrees.
A Hygrometer Wick is placed over the stem of the thermometer and the other end of the sleeve is placed in a jar or pan in the incubator.
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HOW TO CALIBRATE HYGRO with SALT TEST
GOOGLE HOW TO CALIBRATE WITH SALT !

A few TIPS & TRICKS!
It’s a good idea to keep the incubator plugged into a surge protector.

Use distilled water in your incubator to help prevent bacteria growth. Omphalitis, Mushy Chick Disease and Yolk Sack Infection may be caused by a bacterium that enters through the porous egg shell. Unfortunately, incubation conditions are ideal for breeding bacteria as well as incubating eggs. Brinsea sells a disinfectant, formulated to be used for cleaning eggs, incubators, safe and effective against yeasts, fungi, viruses and bacteria which can cause fatal damage to the growing embryo.
Pennies can be added to water wells. Copper helps to destroy the cell walls of bacteria, thus keeping bacteria out of the incubator. Pennies before 1982 have more copper content and pure copper kills 99.9% of bacteria.
Below image is a Simple waterer/suctioner out of aquarium tubing placed through side of incubator and into water wells. Use a Kids medicine syringe to add/suck water without opening or disturbing eggs.​


In the image below are the different sized cups I use the first 18 days of incubation INSTEAD of using the wells in the bottom of the incubator. I had a hard time getting humidity correct, so I started using different size containers and caps for water holding, I could easily remove & replace as necessary. It WORKS WELL and I can keep them clean and sanitized better and not disturb my eggs! I will remove these cups on day 18 so the chicks don’t drown in them
and use the lower wells at lockdown at day 18.
View attachment 1877982
2" funnel & we shoved it into a small piece of 1/4" tubing, a cleat on the inside of the unit (a wide-crown staple or cable staple would work also) to hold the tubing in place.
This way you can add water to the middle of the bator without missing the water troughs and without opening the unit. see below
(Thanks tlpounds)​
View attachment 1877983

REMEMBER~
Surface area of water will increase
humidity more so than depth!

If you need a safe boost at lockdown
ust add a dampened sponge or rag.

A "ShamWoW" is great as a wick and can hang from the sides or across top of incubator.





Setting Eggs & Turning
It is important to ALWAYS wash your hands before handling your hatching eggs!

It is likewise important to SANITIZE your incubator AND equipment before AND after use!
Omphalitis, yolk sack infection is caused by a bacterium that enters through the porous egg shell and easily kills embryo's and newly hatched chicks. Unfortunately, incubation conditions are ideal for breeding bacteria as well as incubating eggs.
Failure to turn eggs during incubation CLEARLY reduces hatchability in every scholarly study & clinical trial.

Mark eggs, using a pencil, with an X on one side and an O on the other. Make sure to turn the eggs at least 3 times a day, or odd number of times. Turning by hand they should always be turned an odd amount of times and move them to a different part of the tray to protect them from temperature variation. You basically roll the eggs with your fingers/palm from X to O. It is important to NOT ROLL the eggs in the same direction every time. Improper rolling can cause the chalazae that holds the yolk in place to tear. Turning the egg prevents the embryo from touching and attaching to the membrane inside the egg. The most convenient way to turn eggs is to purchase an egg turner. Take extra precautions when turning eggs during the first week of incubation. The developing embryos have delicate blood vessels that rupture easily when severely jarred or shaken, thus killing the embryo.


When adding Eggs the temperature will immediately drop. DO NOT ADJUST THE THERMOSTAT, or risk accidentally cooking them. Wait 2/4 hours and if the temperature is still low, make a small adjustment, as small as you can. (Note: Small adjustments on the manual Styrofoam incubators make BIG changes!)



Do not incubate eggs on paper trays or in boxes.
This guarantees heterogeneous egg/embryo temperatures,
resulting in high levels of early mortality.





CANDLING & WEIGHING EGGS
View attachment 1877993

Sites to refer to for Candling Images and Videos

Progression Though Incubation:
BYC article CLICK HERE
Metzer Candling Duck Eggs: CLICK HERE
Development of a Chick: CLICK HERE

AGAIN! Understand the Air Cell
The average chicken egg has thousands of pores running through the shell allowing the embryo to exchange oxygen, carbon dioxide and water. Soon after an egg is laid, a small air bubble or “air cell” forms in the large end of the egg from water loss. Humidity levels in the incubator determine moisture evaporation during the 21 days of incubation and hatching. The air cell is crucial for the chick to break out of the egg shell at the end of the incubation period. The chick can drown if the air cell is too small or the chick may be retarded in growth if the air cell is too large. This is why maintaining the proper humidity is crucial. Slightly lower humidity levels are more likely to be less disastrous than slightly higher humidity levels.

MARKING and OBSERVING the size of the air cell is a way of checking for correct weight loss of the egg and is commonly used. However, this can be inaccurate due to the different, types, shapes, and ages of eggs. The protrusion of the embryo into the air cell also may effect observations. Again, it is the most common method for non-commercial hatchers. With experience you can adjust your humidity as needed by visual inspection of air cells. However, Weighing is the MOST accurate. If the incubation humidity is too low (very dry conditions), the air sac will be larger than normal and the humidity in the incubator should be increased to reduce the rate of water loss. If the air space is smaller than normal then the opposite applies.​

Track the air sac with pencil tracings when you candle,
On the 7, 14 & 18th days its ok after day 7 to candle more often to keep better track!

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WEIGHING EGGS
Chicken eggs need to lose 14% moisture over 21 days, NOT day 18 lockdown. I have always done well at 16% though. Weigh all the eggs on the first day, before you put them in the incubator and weigh again days 10, 14 & 18. Several formulas can be used to determine the rate of weight loss or overall per cent weight loss and to correct the humidity if the values are off. For accuracy, a digital scale should be used which can weigh in grams. Don't forget to subtract the weight of the container holding the eggs from the total weight when calculating the average egg weight. If you use a rack to incubate your eggs it is best to weigh the entire rack instead of each egg to get an average. If you are incubating upright in a carton you will also weigh the entire carton so that the eggs are not disturbed. SHIPPED eggs.


Some Explanations & TIPS from
cochins1088 on weighing Eggs!
Eggs should lose approximately 11% - 12% of their mass at 18th day of incubation. To monitor mass loss, a person must keep track of an egg’s weight. Optimally eggs should be weighed right after they’re laid, but this isn’t always possible. When eggs are shipped, weigh them as you remove them from the package. Keep in mind that the eggs will lose some of their mass during storage. According to Aviagen, eggs lose about 0.5% of their masses per week in storage.

How to Calculate Mass Loss

First subtract the current weight of an egg from the original weight of the egg. This number will give you the weight loss. Then take the weight loss and divide it by the original weight of the egg. This will give you the fraction of weight that was loss. Lastly, multiply the fraction of weigh loss by 100. This will give you the percent of mass loss.

For example:
Original weight (50 g) - Current weight (45 g) = Weight lost (5 g)
Weight lost (5 g) divided by Original weight (50 g) = Fraction of weight lost (0.1)
Fraction of weight lost (0.1) multiplied by 100 = Percent of weight lost (10%)

For those of you who incubate large numbers of eggs, you can weigh the trays to find the average mass of each egg.

For example:
If a tray weigh of eggs initially weighs 700 grams and the empty tray weighs 200 grams, than the eggs must initially weigh 500 grams. If there are 10 eggs in the tray, then each egg weighs approximately 50 grams.
Let’s say that 2 eggs are removed because they were infertile.
After 18 days, your tray weighs 560 grams. If you subtract the weight of the tray (200 grams), than the eggs must weigh 360 grams. There are 8 eggs in the tray, so each egg weighs approximately 45 grams.
With this example, the eggs lost 10% of their mass by day 18.

Note: Kitchen scales work great. The WeighMax Pocket Mini CD Digital Scale below works great if you weigh individual eggs. I pasted an egg carton cup firmly to hold the eggs. Be extremely careful not to tip your scale and crack your eggs!




CANDLE EGGS
DAY 1

Always wash hands before handling eggs.
The shell of an egg is thin and opaque when held near a bright light. The easiest type of egg to candle is the white shelled egg and some of the hardest eggs to candle are dark brown eggs, like the Maran eggs pictured below.

You could try two or more flashlights to see into them!






Candle days are 1, 7, 14 & 18th day

You will need a Candler, bright light, LED flashlight, Some say their cell is best!

Turn on your Candler and shut off the lights in the room so it is dark, evenings are best. Hold the flashlight/Candler like the image below and set the egg air cell/fat end down on your hand. This will prevent any light leakage from the flashlight. Your hand protects the egg from the hard surface of the light and helps more of the light to go through the egg.
View attachment 1878018
CAUTION: Be very careful when you handle the egg
so you don't accidentally crack it or DROP it!


Slowly & gently rotate the egg until you can see inside the egg. On Day 1 candling you will mark air cells and check for cracked or porous eggs. Lightly mark the air cell with a pencil. Candle quickly if the light gets hot, you will kill the embryo. On Day 1 candle you will NOT see much inside the egg but you may have a glimpse of yolk moving as you gently rotate lightly colored eggs.

Chicken Embryo Development, views from the Inside AND Out. *Graphic Photos**
CLICK HERE

CANDLES AND EGGTOPSY
Porous Egg



TINY Sappy spots possibly due to Rough Shipment of EGGS







Day 11 candle funky air cells from shipped eggs.
BLOOD RINGS clearly visible on light polish eggs




Saddle Shaped Air cell, where it dips on two sides
BLOOD RINGS clearly visible on light polish eggs



Note the pictures below on day 10
The two on the right have “scrambled” contents from shipping







CANDLE EGGS

DAY 7


When you Candle on day 7 there should be some light blood vessels surrounding it and you may see the embryo move. See above and below video. My favorite time to candle! Eggs that are clear should be re-candled at 10 days before tossing. If your not sure and it doesn’t smell leave it! If your egg is colored or a brown egg, it is harder to see through the shell, you may want to wait a few days and try again. Or find a better candler. You can see the large round yolk move inside the egg, this is NOT the embryo at day 7! Its just the yolk!


CANDLE EGGS
DAY 14


View attachment 1878057

Candle day 14 is to determine growth, weigh, pencil mark air cell size and dispose bad eggs.It will begin to look pretty dark in there! Look for movement.
You should again see some good veining.





CANDLE EGGS
DAY 18 & LOCKDOWN!


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Candle day 18 is to determine growth, weigh, pencil mark air cell size and dispose bad eggs. It will look pretty dark and FULL in there! You may or may not see movement on this candle. Its ok if not, don’t panic! The chick may easily be resting! See how that air cell is beginning to dip more to one side and if you lay the egg down it will roll into the hatching position. I set my eggs with lowest dip in the aircell up. This position for hatching is good so the chick is able to turn into position and I can easily see my pips too! Day 18 laying horizontal for actual hatching helps a chick hatch 1-2 hours earlier. I lay my eggs down LOWEST DIP of the AIRCELL UP! This is the normal and most likely hatching position and the chick will break through or Internally pip and externally pip in that probable area. See the image below with the x, x being lowest dip in air cell and probably pip area/s.


xNxw14JyWoVYZdC0g19k4PqHb61pm1I7H1Yek1OpxvUHSWXJdZ99loZRJmrAZ5Loqgdaz-9yNYAkFBzJ51-8vLIfZxeRqetfzZyfbLEU8EIgiFc4qJVM-CvMRyv-eWMGzL_BJtAC





LOCKDOWN!
Stop turning, Remove Turner and Raise Humidity to 65% - 70%
depending on what your air cells may still need


NOTE: It is now known that the different embryos communicate with each other by a series of clicking sounds,the rate of clicking being the important feature. Ensuring the eggs on the hatching trays are in contact with each other facilitatesthe synchronization of hatching where the eggs are incubated in a modern machine. This assists in reducing the time between when the first and last chicks hatch.

After Day 18 candle you will “LOCK DOWN” your eggs. Lower the temperature see suggest temps below and increase the humidity the last three days. STOP turning and the incubator stays closed, for the next three days while the chicks hatch! If you’re having a hard time with humidity it is OK to open quickly to boost, add warm water or increase the size of the pan or add a wet sponge. NEVER ADJUST HUMIDITY BY cutting back airflow. VENTILATION is EXTREMELY important at this stage!

TIPS: COVER THE HATCHING AREA Before LOCKDOWN!
A foam grip drawer mat, or window screening on the wire bottom of incubator on day on day 18 lockdown. A cloth, crinoline, or paper towels could work as well. This ALSO protects the navel, the place where the abdomen closes after surrounding the remains of the yolk, from injury. It also makes cleaning the incubator easier. NO the wire on the incubator bottom should not injure or effect your chicks after they hatch. Dollar store baskets are great to keep hatching chicks separated by breed.






View attachment 1878059View attachment 1878060


While you WAIT Please PREPARE BROODER:
Prepare everything you need for them once they have hatched.
Now is the time to do final checks on brooder, heat lamp and feed.
See bottom of article for links on chick care.
View attachment 1878061
Click on the link below for Brooder Ideas!
https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/homemade-chicken-brooder-designs-pictures

Rocking Egg Video!
Eggs can rock for several days before hatching, but how exciting it is!


View attachment 1878062


Understanding The Hatching Process
Between the 15th and 16th days, the chick orients itself so that its head is near the air cell at the large end of the egg. Not long before the chick is ready to attempt to make its way out of the shell its neck acquires a double bend so that its beak is under its right wing and pointed toward the air cell. 21 DAYS is just a baseline for hatching eggs. Many chicks can take 23 - 25 days!
Some pip internally and fully hatch in hours while others will be 24 hours or more.

Egg movement! Eggs can “Rock n Roll” days before they are due to hatch!

The initiation of hatch occurs partially from the increased carbon dioxide level in the egg. This process causes the embryo to begin twitching it's muscles allowing the inner shell membrane to be punctured by the egg tooth. The chick then begins breathing the air in the air cell. Using its egg tooth, it pecks at the shell thousands of times and after a few hours the chick pips a small hole through the shell and begins to breathe air directly from the outside. After the chick has made a hole in the shell, it stops pipping for 8+ hours sometimes up to 24 hours and rests. During this time, it is acclimating its lungs.





In regards to opening and closing the bator to remove already hatch chicks; It is important to remember that chicks can go 3 days without food/water. It is better to wait for the remaining chicks to hatch to insure reducing the impact to unhatched pipping eggs.
But my new chick is running around in the bator knocking eggs around!
LET THEM GO! DO NOT OPEN THE INCUBATOR! They are fine!





Oh NO!
It PIPPED the WRONG END!
MALPOSITIONS
It is common to lose about 1-2% of the chicks due to deformities and malpositions. Deformities occur during embryo development, while malpositions occur the last week of incubation. Malpositioned embryos are unable to pip the eggshell and escape due to improper positioning within the egg. The chicks can have difficulty positioning for pipping, absorbing the yolk sac, or changing from embryo to chick breathing air. The majority of malpositioned embryos that have died in the shell probably resulted from exhaustion and/or lack of oxygen. One GOOD thing to remember is that SOME malpositions are Lethal and some are not! Occasionally, malpositioned chicks will hatch unassisted but the hatch does need to be monitored closely to ensure that the chick is not becoming stressed, or stuck. Often as a result of the position in the shell they have been unable to absorb all of the yolk. Please refer to Navel SECTION BELOW.
LL


Common reasons of Malpositions are:
Eggs are set with small end up. Advancing breeder hen age and shell quality problems. Egg turning frequency and angle are not adequate. Inadequate % humidity loss of eggs in the setter. Inadequate air cell development, improper temperature and humidity regulation, and insufficient ventilation in the incubator or hatcher. Imbalanced feeds, elevated levels of mycotoxins, and vitamin and mineral deficiencies. Lower than recommended temperatures in the last stage of incubation.

Normal hatching position and the six
recognized malposition Images: CLICK HERE

ASSISTING MALPOSITIONED CHICKS.....
HOW AND WHEN TO ASSIST! CLICK HERE






What Went Wrong During Incubation


BELOW High Humidity causes red hocks
LL


Hatchability Problem Analysis CLICK HERE
Troubleshootting Incubation CLICK HERE
Eggtopsy: What happened to my egg? CLICK HERE
"Shrink wrap" vs. "Sticky chick"? CLICK HERE
Signs of Deficiency in the Embryo CLICK HERE

New Chick Care Links and Info
How to Spot Problems of Newly Hatched Chicks CLICK HERE
Dont forget to have Sav-A-Chick™ Electrolyte and Vitamin Supplement on hand!

TIP: GROW GEL / FEED Newly hatched chick!

DIP THE BEAK OF THE CHICK IN THE WATER BEFORE YOU TURN IT LOOSE in the brooder. For the first two days put sterilized marbles or stones in the waterer so they dont drown. A taste of water right away helps them to find more water soon. If your chicks are at all stressed, add about 3 tablespoons of brown or table sugar to each quart of water for extra energy. Most baby bird loss is caused because the bird doesn't start to eat or drink. Never let your bird run out of water.

Homemade Electrolyte Recipe for weak/ill chicks
2 C. Water
2 TBL. Brown Sugar, honey or molasses
1/2 tsp Salt
1/2 tsp. Baking Soda
Mix until all dry ingredients dissolve & Keep refrigerated
You could also use electrolyte drinks Gatorade or Pedialyte, or
3 drops of POLYVISOL (liquid childrens A-B-D vitamins)
Slowly drip along inner edge of lower beak.


Culling ~
Don't incubate unless you can Euthanize or have someone that can do it for you! It will happen!
GOOGLE "How to Cull or Euthanize chicks"



FINISHED ~

SANITIZE EQUIPMENT & PAT YOURSELF ON THE BACK!





A few Cool Videos!



THIS is a video of a CANDLE at DAY 10!



Let the kids and Grandkids help you incubate and care for chicks!

Our Daughter helped make our very first coolerincubator and followed us along on our first attempt! She learned alot! and they sure do love chicks!
Our Son Lucas in below image and video...
View attachment 1878093





Disclaimer: Please note this information is offered as friendly advice only and, whilst I have made every effort to ensure it is accurate, I can not be held responsible if it proves not to be useful in your case!


Sally Sunshine





Educational Incubation & Hatching, w/ Sally Sunshine Click HERE & NOTES section click HERE
Hatching 101 Article click HERE & Assisted Hatching Guide Click HERE
Cabinet Coolerbator ~ Pallet Coops ~ Saloon Coop ~ Pallet Duck House & Duck Care
Processing Support Group~ PINTEREST ALL POULTRY ~Our Serama House of Littles Click HERE ~Mushy Chick Disease ~ Nasty Chicken Butt ~ Easy no Strain Fermented Feed ~ Easy 5gal Waterer



A little fun compliments of my friend Oz!









175x400px-LM-4a3e464a_350x700px-LL-6a3e6ab6_101_5001_crop.jpeg


My new Avy Created by my friend cochins1088 from BYC,

How cool is that!









 
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Hey y'all...........

I left not because of the thread, I should have posted separate posts instead of just one post that day, wasn't thinking about how it could be interpreted, just was already short for time, so I just rattled what was in my mind, careful of that, it nips yer butt quick in written words........ I had no idea y'all would take it too personally, Most of you should know by now that I am forced to step in poo at times, and have to take time to clean it off ma boots....... errrr ummmm flip flops.....

Y'all also know when I can and DO keep up with the thread, that I am a terrible overposter
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I am guilty and first to admit that. I will also admit that I was extremely irritated before I even got on the thread that day, for being told MY thread is number one yapping thread before I even read Phages post, I have really tried to make this OUR thread, NEVER my thread, and always referred to it as such.....I know reading these things wasnt meant to upset me in any way, its just that I took it as my purpose was gone, I so want an open door policy on the thread and ATTEMPTED to keep it comfortable for the MAJORITY of people and really did try extremely hard to keep up with the thread and take all the information everyone was sharing so we could share it with others and then they could share it.
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OUR NOTES! AMAZING, HELPFUL and they are a product of EVERYONE who has shared posts on this thread.

As much as some seem to think I care about how many posts I have or how many post counts a thread has, I really dont give a rats, I have read some of the smallest threads on this site, and I cant believe some of the great info in very few posts. That is another reason I am working with @Nifty-Chicken on creating a great thread with pulling some of BYC greatest posts! THAT is where the value comes from a thread to me. I am a very humble person I will remain humble for life no matter what the issue, however, that doesn't mean I wont strive to do my best at whatever I attempt or do. I wanted a place for people to go after the HAL where they could continue to get more help from each other, and it took on a life of its own. If you Re read the OP you will find I do want you all to chat and make friends, heck some of you I would call family! I get thoroughly annoyed when I am called super star rock star or someone freaks if I help them because good God "Sally Sunshine helped meeeee" good Lord I am not all that for sure. I do love reading the occasional PM's with nice thank yous and short sharing of how I have helped them, because it helps to know that it is all working, helping from simply sharing my own research and experiences. Even with badges, I prefer to have them turned off from my view in my user preference, I know they mean very much to many people but as far as I am concerned you are all my friends, or soon to be.

When I seen @sumi tag pop in my email this morning, I had seen whites name and in short order had teary eyes. Love ma Whites
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And @granny hatchet had snagged me on FB, LOVE ma granny dear so much too.......
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so I did get to tell Billy it has nothing to do with him and his posting @BantyChooks I know you were worried from the message, I am overwhelmed by all the caring and heartfelt messages on here, in my private email and also on FB, Thank you for taking the time to show me that, I cant tell you how much it means to know people care for me
hugs.gif


oh, in regards to my health....... I dont discuss my health issues, they are my issues and I will get through them without reminding myself over and over about them, everyone deals differently, I will deal my way, my family gets very upset when I wont discuss with them. But thats who I am.

So carry on, Y'all are perfectly fine on here! Helping out and being on top of things, I cant tell you how grateful I am that you all help so many others! It feels good to be able to help so many people on the internet, on BYC and at home...

and let me tell you something else..... To be completely honest, I really feel odd when I cant be here and then I feel like I catch up and then dont have time to chat. I feel awkward I guess. That I am not helping anyone, but it took another to remind me how much I will always help in the information that I have already compiled for them, so I just needed a good talking too.


I will be on and about, probably not keeping up like I should be on this thread, but I CAN SAY how relieved I am that my sweet Banti Bubbles is such a great young lady will take care of details and notes, and that @mlm Mike
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is always there for me being the wonderful supportive and caring person that he is. Thank you to you too
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and also @TwoCrows who has to deal with our thread, and know everyone like she does and not be able to post with us. Leyla I really appreciate you for all you do! I can imagine how hard it is to keep up.
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Love you sweet Leyla!





Anyways, at the moment, Life took hold and I am living it..... at least till heaven knocks
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Shipped Eggs = Change Of Plans!

REQUEST HOW YOU WANT YOUR eggs SHIPPED PEOPLE!!!!

HOW TO REQUEST AND SHIP EGGS Sally Sunshine Way...
HOWTOREQUESTANDSHIPEGGSSallySunshineWay.pdf
Unpacking & USPS Reimbursements SHIPPED EGGS.pdf

Don't forget to request cold or heat packs according to weather to and from!





Shipped Eggs = Change Of Plans!
Shipped eggs have a MUCH lower hatch rate, even with experienced hatchers!



REQUEST HOW YOU WANT YOUR eggs SHIPPED PEOPLE!!!!

HOW TO REQUEST AND SHIP EGGS Sally Sunshine Way...


COLD? REQUESTING HEAT PACKS discussion post #32219
Heat packs for shipping animals/etc http://www.tsksupply.com/categories/Heat-Packs/


It’s always best to get local eggs to get the best hatch rate.
Sources for eggs are to search the BYC buy sell trade section, Craigslist and eBay.
Your local thread on BYC may be the best bet for local eggs!




An egg with a small air cell is a higher quality than an egg with a larger air cell. When an egg first laid, there is no air cell but as time goes on and the egg cools, an air cell forms and continues to grow in size because of the pores in the egg shell itself. The air cell can be measured by using an air cell gauge, which is a card that is held up to the egg while candling.
An example of an air cell gauge can be seen below.
Egg-USDAEggCellGradingCard.JPG
Egg-Grading.JPG




As soon as you open your eggs, be GENTLE try to keep them upright!

CANDLE IMMEDIATELY UPRIGHT in case you have Bad air cells!

Mark air cells with a pencil! So you are aware of bad eggs from good!

HOW TO CANDLE EGGS post #40826

LL






BELOW ROLLING AIR CELL OF A SHIPPED EGG
Rolls like a Carpenters Level


0.jpg




SHIPPED EGGS & Malpositions!
BELOW ARE "SADDLE" SHAPED AIR CELLS


SADDLE SHAPED AIR CELLS are very COMMON with shipped eggs!
Saddle shaped is when

one or both sides have a large "dip" in the air cell.

A lot of times with saddle shaped cells the chick doesn’t position correct for hatching and their feet can easily get stuck behind their head and “smoosh” the chick so they can’t move, it can also force the yolk sack and everything more north in the shell.... Keep a close eye on these eggs and its VERY important to pencil mark Air cells! Issues Step by Step Guide to ASSISTED Hatching

saddles below


Jiggly eggs are when the air cell

has a small amount of movement at the top!




UNDERSTANDING what goes WRONG with SHIPPED EGGS
The yolk of an egg is held in place on each end by what is called Chalaza. These are delicate cords that keep the yolk centered in the egg. When you crack open an egg, you notice a white stringy thing on the yolk, this is the Chalaza. When eggs are shipped they encounter postal handlers that toss the packages, sorting machinery, bumpy vehicle rides, temperature changes and possibly X-ray Machines! So by the time the eggs get to you they are pretty much scrambled inside. So if you are going to buy eggs and have them shipped to you, be aware that the viability drops TREMENDOUSLY. There are rare instances when they ALL arrive safely but it is always a gamble.
See Egg anatomy here http://www.geauga4h.org/poultry/egg_parts.htm




~ CONCLUSION ~
Shipped Eggs How & When to Set!

"Settle" & Setting of eggs
Shipped eggs need to be left to warm to room temperature
& need to settle B4 adding to the incubator!
This "settle" time will vary depending on the age of the eggs, DO NOT TURN THEM!!
if the air cells are large they are already getting old! Most shipped eggs are getting old!

Settle 6 hours and then set (begin incubation) if they are getting old and have large air cells. But continue to read below for Rolling, Ruptured, Jiggly Air cell info!
If Eggs are FRESH you can settle for 12-24 hours.
REMINDER~ Never Set COLD eggs in the incubator.


EGGS WILL NEED DIFFERENT TREATMENTS Should YOU have BAD AIR CELLS......


If an egg has a NORMAL INTACT AIR CELL:
Normal air cell eggs, settle 12-24 hrs if FRESH, IF OLD 6 hours and
then begin to incubate these upright and you may begin turning, you may lay horizontal or upright for hatching. Most people like to hatch upright for shipped eggs.
PLEASE PLEASE READ THE TURNING SECTION of this article FIRST!
If you can turn more than 3x a day PLEASE PLEASE turn them!! 3 is minimum amount!



For ROLLING AIR CELLS:
(cells no longer at fat end of the egg but like a bubble level on the long side, see above video)
Follow SETTLING EGGS ABOVE DO NOT TURN
Set in incubator Upright/AIR CELL UP/FAT END UP and
do not turn for 3 days once set in the bator AT LEAST!
CANDLE ONLY FROM ABOVE LEAVE THEM IN THE BATOR DURING CANDLE

If after 3 days and you have embryo growth and the air cell is still completely loose, do not turn another 24 hours.



For detached, Jiggly or disrupted air cells:
(see above for descriptions and images)
If air cells are Saddle shaped, Detached/Loose, or Jiggly follow above settle times
and set in the incubator and don't turn for at least 36/48 HOURS
After that time, turn on the turner or begin with the gentle turning side to side
or you can turn by hand in the carton by simply tilting side to side, see image below.

Below image are Eggs in A Carton with Bottoms cut out for Ventilation




Below image of Turning damaged air cell Shipped Eggs, just lean to opposite side.





TREATMENT AT LOCKDOWN.......
Shipped eggs that have had loose air cells or saddle air cells,
should be hatched upright but tilted just enough so that the lowest dip is somewhat upright, so if they have fluid in the air cell it may prevent drowning).

MARKING AIR CELLS DAY 18, DRAW DOWN, INTERNAL PIP, EXTERNAL PIP, and ZIPPING post #35770
Pips and ZIPS ARE NOT THE SAME PATIENCE is a MUST!



LOCKDOWN, DAY 18, CANDLES, PIPS, ZIPS
DAY 18 CANDLE IMAGES/VIDEOS: post #41176
FIVE VIDEOS show Draw Down and Internals post #44701
DAY 18 DIS CANDLES post #43401
DONT PICK THE PIPS! post #24611
TIMELINE of a silky HATCHING! NOTE HOW LONG IT TOOK FROM INTERNAL TO ZIPPING post #33770
TIMELINE OF A POLISH HATCHING QUICK HATCHOUT! post #46572
VIDEO of zip and hatch AT :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyO3YwrsJPg
DO my Air cells look ok Day 18? post #31971
DAY 18 HOW DO I LOCKDOWN, WHAT HUMIDITY, do I hatch horizontal OR Upright? post #32948
LOWERING TEMPS lockdown IS NOT NECESSARY/AIDs THE HATCHING PROCESS post #2898
Hatching Behavior & How the chick Comes out of the Shell post #34865
YES a chick can chirp when its not pipped internally! post #20506




First and foremost, @Sally Sunshine for her excellent shipped egg information,
such that I'm getting live birds hatching from this mess:

Kristins horribly shipped eggs and hatch post #57321


LL




CRACKED EXPENSIVE IMPORTANT EGGS
If you do receive a cracked egg and it’s an expensive egg you can try to hatch it, but beware of bacterial explosion and good possibility of ruining other eggs. It is possible to hatch a cracked egg by sealing the crack with candle wax/crayon wax or finger nail polish. Try to place the egg in a cup or protected place well away from other eggs. If viable to hatch, keep a close eye on where the pip mark will be in case the chick cant get through a fixed area.




REMINDER THAT YOU MAY BE ENTITLED TO REIMBURSEMENT
OF DAMAGED SHIPPED EGGS

SEE LINKS FOR INFO! https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/the-truth-about-insuring-hatching-eggs
http://www.jordan-farm.com/blog/

 
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Well, got to do something not so fun yesterday. Went ahead and took photos as I went along with my husband's help. Bumble Foot. It's been a while since I have had to do this. Noticed her limping yesterday morning, got it done in the afternoon, went ahead and changed the bandage today to see how it was looking. Looking good!




I love using the biopsy punch. Just the right size this time.



Getting water ready for the soak.




It's so interesting how they are usually pretty calm in the bucket!




Getting that towel over the head.




She's covered, and can't see. Now they lay still for it.




Appears to be pretty large.




This punch fit right around it nicely. I want two other sizes.




Got most of it, have another tool I didn't show, to cut around it...didn't use the exacto
knife this time.




Have my neo ready to put into the hole.




This one bled pretty good, but I smushed that Neo in there.




Then hurried and put the quaze pad on.




Then the vet wrap.




I like to use the sticky water proof tape over a part of the vet wrap, to make sure it stays on.



All done!




She's checking it out. :) So is the leghorn.





Funny, a lot of the hens came to check it out.



Now after changing it today, I will wait for a couple of days, and change it every two days until it is healing pretty good, then to three days until it's healed. Glad it's done!
 
Dear Sally, as much as I love you all, if you lern history, especially the Jewish people history, you should know that the ONLY place for us is here in ouer homeland!

I get on political sites/'news sites' often, I'm not Jewish, don't know hardly anybody here that is, though there is many in the USA, my Aunt is (she left my bum uncle, smart girl) and we have a Rabbi visit our dairy plant once a yr for a month, when we run Kosher for Passover (super cool dude). I'm a advocate for all religions though, seems like you all get a bum rap here lately (all religions)....
I post this any time I hear a 'two state solution' or 'they have more rights to the land'....what do you think, what is it missing maybe? I stole it, not my words, just wondering if it it is factually correct beings I post it often. Hear it is;

So yes, Israel needs to release their claim on the land and control needs to go back to the people that had it before-Great Britain.

But that's not fair because Great Britain took it from the Ottoman Empire, so the UK needs to give it back to the Ottomans.

But that's not fair because the Ottomans aren't around any more, and they took it from the Romans, so it needs to be given to Italy.

But that's not fair because the Romans took it from the Greeks so it has to be given to Greece.

But that's not fair because the Greeks took it from the Jews, so it needs to be given to Israel.

But that's not fair because Israel took it from the Canaanites, so it needs to be given back to Canaan

But Canaan doesn't exist anymore, and that's not fair because the Canaanites took it from the Phonecians so it needs to be given back to the Phonecians.

But that's not fair because the Phonecians aren't around anymore and they took it from the family of Joshua who conquered Jericho, so it needs to be given to

Israel....

Yes, I'm sure I missed a few occupiers on that list, but one is conspicuous in absence-there has never been a nation of Palestine in control of that land, so one may question their 'historic claim' to the land.
 
no,u didn't.Yes I will have a hard time in life.I can barely write legible sometimes.
If you convince yourself that you'll have a hard time in life, you certainly will. That's called a defeatist attitude, and it'll tear you down. You've got to be determined not to let a disability beat you. You have two hands, even if one or both of them don't work perfectly. There are lots of people in this world that don't even have hands. They learn to compensate. They find other ways to do whatever they want to do. I've seen video of people who don't even have arms, but are successful commercial artists. I know of a lady named Joanie Erickson who was paralyzed in an accident. She taught herself to paint by holding the brush in her teeth. There's always someone who's worse off than you are.
 
I am worried for the one egg.and the one chick



Ms,@Sally Sunshine



I'm,worried about the rest in the incubator


How about you just stop messing with them. I seriously can't believe you opened 4 eggs when day 21 wasn't even over yet. You owe Sally and everyone who has had to watch you ignore advice an apology. If I were your mother I would take away your bator and all your chickens. You are burning bridges young man and if you can't follow advice given to you you should stop asking for it.
 
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