Incubation Day 22

CowPattyAcres

In the Brooder
Apr 1, 2018
15
10
24
so, it is incubation day 22. No pipping, no eggs rocking, no chirping. I’ve checked, double checked, and rechecked the temperature and the humidity. I know somewhere mid incubation I lost some humidity but the chicks continued to develop at a usual pace afterward.
I’m worried I may have lost the whole clutch. Suggestions or advise, please.
 
Tap lightly on air sac end and listen for movement. You can also light the eggs and see if you can see anything dark on the inside. I would give one more week then start over with fresh batch. Hope it works out, let us know!
 
How did you count your incubation days? Day one starts after the first 24 hours of heat. If you set them on a Monday, hatch day should be 21 days later, on a Monday.

Did you calibrate your thermometer and hygrometer? You CAN NOT trust the thermostat that came with your bator. You can't trust ANY thermometer or hygrometer unless you have calibrated them.

Is your bator forced or still air? Forced air should be 99.5*, still air should be 102* measured at surface of eggs.

What did you use for humidity? Many of us have found that we get the best hatch rates by using 30 - 40% through day 17. However, humidity is not set in stone. It is merely a tool that you use to see to it that your air cells develop at the right rate. Some eggs require more humidity, others require less.

I suggest that you read all of "Hatching eggs 101" in the learning center before attempting an other hatch.
 
Tap lightly on air sac end and listen for movement. You can also light the eggs and see if you can see anything dark on the inside. I would give one more week then start over with fresh batch. Hope it works out, let us know!

Thank you, I did the tap test and nothing. I did try the water test too. No movement.
 
How did you count your incubation days? Day one starts after the first 24 hours of heat. If you set them on a Monday, hatch day should be 21 days later, on a Monday.

Did you calibrate your thermometer and hygrometer? You CAN NOT trust the thermostat that came with your bator. You can't trust ANY thermometer or hygrometer unless you have calibrated them.

Is your bator forced or still air? Forced air should be 99.5*, still air should be 102* measured at surface of eggs.

What did you use for humidity? Many of us have found that we get the best hatch rates by using 30 - 40% through day 17. However, humidity is not set in stone. It is merely a tool that you use to see to it that your air cells develop at the right rate. Some eggs require more humidity, others require less.

I suggest that you read all of "Hatching eggs 101" in the learning center before attempting an other hatch.

I started counting at 24 hours of incubation.
I have two separate non- digital thermometers, both temperatures verified correctly prior to set up as well as maintained
I have an OLD still air, as this is my first clutch in many years. I questioned the Bator but it maintained both temperature and humidity in my trial.
I would consider replacing it, if you have a recommendation I would appreciate it.
Humidity maintained within the 38-40 range on average throughout, increasing it at lockdown on day 18.
Thanks :)
 
Did you candle the eggs at any point in the incubation? Are you absolutely sure your eggs were fertilized? If everything was as it should have been in the incubation process then there should have been development. What was your temp throughout?
 
Did you candle the eggs at any point in the incubation? Are you absolutely sure your eggs were fertilized? If everything was as it should have been in the incubation process then there should have been development. What was your temp throughout?

Yes, I candled on average every two to three days. Typical development until about 4 days ago when movement stopped within the eggs.
The temperature stayed at 102 in a still air Bator.
 
What temp did you incubate at, and specifically HOW did you calibrate your thermometers?

102 in a still air.
They are non-digital thermometers. So not calibrated. But verification at multiple temperatures. Both thermometers read the same temperature in both tests and in Bator throughout incubation.
 
2 thermometers can read the same but both be equally wrong. You could have 6 thermometers in agreement, and unless they have been calibrated against a known standard, they could all be equally wrong. Unless you have calibrated your thermometers against a known standard, they have not been calibrated. Bulb type can very easily be calibrated against a known standard (medical quality digital ) in a cup of water at 100*. You will then know if your thermometers are accurate.
 

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