Installing Coop Windows

[PupsNHens]

First, a disclaimer I'm a first-time coop builder and have very little experience building anything like a coop.

I'm building a 6x10 coop based on plans I purchased. I'm learning a lot from this build, including that novice-friendly doesn't always mean what you hope it means. I'm following along the plans and I'm at the install the windows part. And it basically says just that - install the windows. Now, I didn't know there were so many options with windows. I needed 24"x24" windows and picked up 3 vinyl utility windows at Lowes. From my extensive googling, I can tell you that they have a nailing fin and an integrated J-channel (it says that on the online description, but now I actually know what that means ).

I'm trying to figure out the best way to install them since the nailing fin and J-channel causes the window to stick out from the side of the coop wall further than I expected. The J-channel is wider than a 1x4, but narrower than a 2x4. I found "brick molding" that might work if I file it down a little where it meets the corner of the window due to a seam that sticks out a bit there.

Does anyone have experience installing these type of windows on a coop where the siding is already up? What's the best way to be sure I don't have any water leakage? I do already have window flashing tape to use for the install and watched a couple of videos on how to use it. Does the fact that the window sticks out away from the coop wall change anything when installing it?

I hope that's clear. I plan to install windows this weekend, and I'm trying to plan it out.

Thanks!

 

[Howard E]

I used the same windows in my Woods house, and this is how I installed them, which is an idea I stole from an old chicken house, hog house, smoke house and barn on the farm where I grew up.

Windows slide horizontally to open and close.........



If slid to the far right, window pops out for repair or cleaning.....otherwise, it stays tucked between the siding and the framing.

To support it in the closed position, I simply nailed a cleat to the framing to create a blind pocket for it to slip into......



Window opening was covered with 1/2" x 1" 16 gauge welded wire......aka, 'cage wire"....that was nailed to the exterior of the framing before the siding went on....so is sandwiched between the two. Windows slides back and forth behind the wire......

 

[cavemanrich]

I know you said in your original post that you are a beginner at building. Everyone is a beginner at some point. I think you are doing a GREAT job at this point.
Consider this,,,, It is what I would do.
Remove window and cut off the inner portion of the J-channel. Insert into opening and the outer flange will be flush with the siding. Get a handful of Stainless steel screws.(wont rust to weep stains) Fasten window thru drilled openings on surface of window to siding. On inside fill in gap between window and frame with expandable foam. That will additionally hold the window in place. (it will not fall out)
Caulk the outside portion. You will have a flush mounted window. EZ Peazy.
Way less work than nailing all kind of molding combinations and still left with a large protrusion. Just my view,

 

[PupsNHens]

I have to make another run to the hardware store for more lumber before I can finish windows. I'll post a photo to this thread once I have the trim up.

 

[cavemanrich]

Uninstall your siding since that should have been the last thing to be put on.
Install your window onto your plywood sheeting. Then use a brickmold if you want. You can just install the j channel onto edge and then proceed to put up the siding. You only need to remove the siding as far down as the bottom of the window height.
YOU CAN SKIP THE BRICKMOLD AND USE THE INTEGRATED CHANNEL OF THE WINDOW JUST THE SAME.
Hope this helps some. Post some pix if you have further questions.
WISHING YOU BEST.,,,,,,,,,,

 

[PupsNHens]

Here's the final product
The interesting part was trying to figure out how to shim it so the trim pieces would lay flat since the nailing fin caused them to rock. I tried extra flashing tape first, but even after two extra layers on the tape not covered by the fin, it still wasn't completely flat. Then I found some rubber strips (designed to go on the underside of a garage door), cut it to size and stapled it to the area around the nailing fin, then put the trim pieces on top of that. That worked better.

I still have some caulking to do around the trim, but I think it turned out pretty well

 

[jthornton]

Normally a window like that is attached to the surface under the siding and the siding fits into the slot around the window. You might "picture frame" it with 1x3 and a good seal of caulk on the top one like OSI Quad to fill in the gaps on the T111.

JT

 

[PupsNHens]

That flange should be against the siding?

What I've learned recently (Internet searching) is that this type of window, with a nailing fin and j-channel, is designed to be installed with vinyl siding. The window is installed to the plywood sheeting via the nailing fin, then the vinyl siding is installed against the window frame under the j-channel.

Now I'm trying to make it work here. There weren't many 24"x24" window options, and I didn't know anything about j-channels when I bought these.

This is the window: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-So...4-in-x-24-in-Actual-23-5-in-x-23-5-in/3681940

 

[jvls1942]

I am a retired carpenter contractor.
do not cut the nailing flange off.
You said you have the tape, now is the time to use it.

start at the bottom. put a piece of tape over the nailing fin tucked up into the channel. and extended beyond the window about 4 inches ib both sides.
next, do both sides , overlapping the bottom piece to the bottom edge of the tape and extended past the top about 4 inches.

last to the top piece the same as the bottom piece.

now you can get some common boards that will fit into the channel.

they should be wide enough to cover the tape.
start at the top and run the piece beyond the window equal to the side pieces that will be butted up to it.

now do the two side pieces and run them below the window to the bottom of the bottom piece.

cut the bottom piece to fit between the two side pieces and paint your new frame..

I hope this helps.. I could have done it faster than it took me to type this..

as a tip: when you butt the pieces into each other, spread some caulk on the joint first..
this not only helps seal out water, but it makes the joint nice and tight looking..

 

[jvls1942]

I think you did a wonderful job. once you are
done with it, you should not have to do anything to it for at least 20 years, then maybe another coat of paint..

now go and build another one..