interior nesting boxes with flip down lip for cleaning

saysfaa

Songster
Jul 1, 2017
901
1,932
241
Upper Midwest, USA
Assuming the studs are 24"oc, close enough spacing for a coop, they are about 12x24 each. This fits the scale of the pier supports if they are standard premade cement piers with those slots each way as well as drop in spaces for posts. The posts fit the scale as 6x6s.

I think the stairs make it hard to see because most coops would have chicken scale instead of standard people size.
 

21hens-incharge

Moderator
BYC Staff
Premium Feather Member
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Mar 9, 2014
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Without knowing the actual measurements I cannot/will not comment on size for number of birds.

I will say MDF/melamine is not the best option. Even if the drop lip is a 2x4 the hinges would have to be screwed into the nest box material which would experience a slight flex/movement every time the birds step on the lip and when it's dropped for cleaning. I very much doubt it would last long.

I will ask about something in the picture of the coops framing that made me curious....
I noticed the wall stud spacing on the shorter side is much closer together than the wall studs on the taller side. What is the stud spacing on each side please?
 

saysfaa

Songster
Jul 1, 2017
901
1,932
241
Upper Midwest, USA
Thinking about it more ... I might try it in my climate. My climate is fairly humid for long stretches but not soggy. I don't think posthole beetles would like it and I don't need to think about termites. I think it would last better than the pegboard holding tools does in garages; that lasts decades as long as the garage doesn't leak.

You might want a landing rail in front of your bank of nests.
 

primaldiva

Chirping
Nov 6, 2018
11
29
72
It's tough to tell from those drawings. It is a 12 x 20' run attached to a raised 8 x 15' coop that will also have space underneath for the birds (coop is over 4 foot off the ground). So 240 sq ft. I did not post the greatest photo. I can post an actual pic, he will be done framing today.
 
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primaldiva

Chirping
Nov 6, 2018
11
29
72
Without knowing the actual measurements I cannot/will not comment on size for number of birds.

I will say MDF/melamine is not the best option. Even if the drop lip is a 2x4 the hinges would have to be screwed into the nest box material which would experience a slight flex/movement every time the birds step on the lip and when it's dropped for cleaning. I very much doubt it would last long.

I will ask about something in the picture of the coops framing that made me curious....
I noticed the wall stud spacing on the shorter side is much closer together than the wall studs on the taller side. What is the stud spacing on each side please?
All stud spacing is 16" OC. The drawing was rudimentary, I just posted it to show the style. 3 sides have 2 x 4 framing, the front side which takes most of the load is 2 x 6. The entire structure is huge, I actually need a building permit for it, so we did load calculations and I will be getting drawings done.
 

primaldiva

Chirping
Nov 6, 2018
11
29
72
Without knowing the actual measurements I cannot/will not comment on size for number of birds.

I will say MDF/melamine is not the best option. Even if the drop lip is a 2x4 the hinges would have to be screwed into the nest box material which would experience a slight flex/movement every time the birds step on the lip and when it's dropped for cleaning. I very much doubt it would last long.

I will ask about something in the picture of the coops framing that made me curious....
I noticed the wall stud spacing on the shorter side is much closer together than the wall studs on the taller side. What is the stud spacing on each side please?
I think you and others here have offered good points. I guess I will use good 3/4 plywood for the nesting boxes coated with a moisture blocking paint, but I am in the same boat for the poop boards, which are 24" deep but are on all 4 sides, so a ton of material. I can't do the sand/scoop thing with 80 birds, I need to scrape the poop with a huge rake each morning. What to coat the plywood with then do you think?
 

primaldiva

Chirping
Nov 6, 2018
11
29
72
What about cement backer board that is typically used behind tile in showers? If weight isn't an issue.
Good idea, but I really want a smooth surface. My next boxes really never get wet, it is the poop boards that are more of a concern I think. Even if they break an egg it ends up getting absorbed by nesting material. I also want something that resists insects, cement board probably would.
 

21hens-incharge

Moderator
BYC Staff
Premium Feather Member
7 Years
Mar 9, 2014
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Northern Colorado
My painted nests use dishpan liners to protect the wood, provide easy cleaning of individual boxes if an egg is broken for example and the entire insides can be pulled out for the needed full coop cleaning and mite treatments.

Do note the anti-tip boards in each box. Yup I once had a hen tip one over and become trapped under the dishpan. :rolleyes:
IMG_20210516_113958.jpg
 

primaldiva

Chirping
Nov 6, 2018
11
29
72
My painted nests use dishpan liners to protect the wood, provide easy cleaning of individual boxes if an egg is broken for example and the entire insides can be pulled out for the needed full coop cleaning and mite treatments.

Do note the anti-tip boards in each box. Yup I once had a hen tip one over and become trapped under the dishpan. :rolleyes:
View attachment 2875689
I can totally see that happening!
 

NatJ

Free Ranging
Mar 20, 2017
8,166
17,106
706
USA
3. I would like the 3-4" lip holding the nesting material in to be on hinges so it can flip down for easier cleaning. For a run of 12ish feet (11 boxes) I would probably divide this lip among 4 boxes each. Math is not exact but you get the picture. Any thoughts on this? Lip could be MDF or painted 2 x 4. Any objections/input on this?

One possibility for cleaning:

Build the row of nestboxes, then attach them to the wall by hinges at the top. Gravity keeps them in place, but you can lift up the front of them to let everything fall out the back (backs are completely open, because the wall itself serves as the back when they are in their usual position.

I don't know if that would be easier or harder than hinging the front lip, but it's what my Dad built a few decades ago, and it worked well for us.
 

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