Introducing chicks to flock

[blue tulip farm]

I am an 'urban farmer' if you will - small little yard but we have chickens and dogs (not together, obvs). Our little crew of 2 birds (was 3, one died mid-winter), is now going to be a crew of 5 birds, but I'm struggling with the integration of the chicks. The babes are about 7 weeks old and I had them in a separate crate inside the run for 3 days (slept in our house at night). When I released them on Saturday, there was lots, I mean LOTS of pecking by the two old ladies (old = 1 year). Yesterday I had to separate them because I was terrified for the babes. The pecking was almost constant. So, now they are back in the internal crate during the day, will be moved to the indoor pen in the shed at night. I'm planning to do this for another week or so and try again. Can someone, with urban chicken experience, please advise what to do? I'd like to make sure none of my girls are killed by the older ones. Also, they are not sleeping in the coop at night with the big birds...that seems like a death wish right now. I'd love for this transition to be smooth, with the understanding that there is a pecking order and things can get a little messy, but it seemed so violent (it wasn't, but it felt that way). Maybe they're still too young? Also, my girls are named Phoebe, Rachel, Monica (RIP), Fat Monica, Janice, and Regina Phalange. Their home is Central Peck. (don't judge me...lol). Phoebe is a buff orpington and Rachel is an Australorp...if that matters.

 

[CluckerFamily]

I do an integration for two-three weeks before allowing them to mingle. I also do the see but no touch integration.

 

[jonalisa]

I am going to be adding my chicks to my flock in 2 weeks. I will section off an area in the coop (it is the area underneath the poop board). I will use chicken wire or a stiff plastic deer netting. The chicks will have a roost and food/water in that area (it's about 3.5'x 12'). They will stay in the coop for 2 weeks. This means no run or free range. This will ensure they learn that the coop is home and they will voluntarily go in at dusk.

The hens will see them day in and day out but will not be able to peck them. After 2 weeks, I will also divide the run and they will have their own access to an area of the run, where the hens will see them but not touch.
When the chicks are approaching the same size as the hens, I will pick a day and let the hens out to free-range and let the chicks out right after. If all goes well, they should all come in without incident at dusk. I will put the chicks on the lowest roost and usually that's it.
If there are problems during free-range time, I'll keep the chicks separated and try again the next night. I've done this 3 times now and it works the first free-range.

This may be a slower process than others use, but I find it easiest for us.

 

[MTR]

I make easy escape slots the pullets can get in and the hens can’t. I let them (pullets) out in the coop on a day I’m free ranging the hens so the hens meet them one hen vs all the pullets at a time to help with the slow integration.

 

[rosemarythyme]

3 days isn't enough, 1-2 weeks for the look but don't touch period would be better. Ideally you want the existing birds to lose most of their interest in the younger ones before you let them mingle.

Since you mentioned this is a "small yard," just how big are the coop and run? Any photos would help. Biggest concern with a small set up is you may not have enough space and clutter https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/ to easily integrate.

 

[aart]

Welcome to BYC! @blue tulip farm

Posting some pics of your coop and run would help immensely here.

Meanwhile, here's some tips about ......
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/

 

[blue tulip farm]

Because we're in the city our coop has to be small per our local ordinances and we aren't allowed to free-range. I realize this limits us, but our coop was approved for 6 chickens. With the 3 newbies, we're still one chicken under ordinance. Here's a photo of our coop. It is about 8 feet long and 4 feet wide. (pardon the winter stuff - we're in Michigan)

 

[aart]

but our coop was approved for 6 chickens.

Approved by whom?
Coop manufacturers under estimate the number of birds a coop can heathily hold.
I would not add any more birds to the set up....the run is not big enough for even 5 birds.