Last year I enlarged my Chicken Run about 10 times the area I started with. I had some problems with the original fence by fastening the fencing on each post-----this did not allow the fence to flex very much and the chicken wire tore easily. So, the new design I incorporated flexibility in the fence. I welded a 3 foot section of rebar extension to my T-posts with an eyelet on the top of the rebar. I buried plastic coated fencing 6 inches deep and extending 12 inches above ground. The corner posts were heavy wood posts set in concrete, made of Osage-orange trees. (Will not rot for a hundred years). I ran #9 galvanized wire from corner post to corner post through the rebar eyelets. I hung the chicken wire from the #9 galvanized wire by rings (like a shower curtain) and connected the fencing with those J hooks that you can get in the farm store that are used for building rabbit cages. (Comes with a special pliers for cinching them) The chicken wire is not attached to the posts---just to the #9 wire and the buried plastic coated wire. (Plastic coated for corrosion control and buried to prevent varmint dig under) Last weekend a storm came through and a tree blasted by lightening fell on my new Chicken Run fence. (Horrors). The rebar bent and the fence accordion down. After I cut up the tree for firewood(waste not, want not)I bent the rebar back by hand and the fence sprung back into shape only a little stretched out, a little tightening of the #9 wire and adjusted the chicken wire made it good as new. Sometimes my genius surprises myself. See my BYC page for how I built my Chicken Run fence pictures. NOTE: I also join end sections of 100 foot Chicken wire by weaving a piece of the #9 wire through a overlapping section---like basting a quilt. The J-hooks are used to join the 3 foot wide sections of the chicken wire to make 6 foot wide sections.