Latch for the people door

saysfaa

Crowing
Jul 1, 2017
1,201
2,701
281
Upper Midwest, USA
How would you secure the people door of this coop?

It has double doors with no center post on the west end of the coop. The south door overlaps the north door. The north door came with a bolt latch screwed to the bottom of the door so that the bolt goes through a hole drilled through the metal edge plate of the floor (shown in second and third pictures). The north door also came with a hook and eye for the top of the door (shown in the fourth picture), When closed, the hook went diagonally up from the interior of the door to the interior side of the beam across the top of the door opening. The interior of the door is flush with the exterior of the door frame. The beam is between 3 and 4 inches wide.

The bottom bolt has not fit into its hole since we leveled the shed two months ago We haven't gotten to trying to drill a new hole for it.

A recent storm ripped the eye for the hook at the top of the door Out of the beam. I meant to replace it with something more secure but hadn't gotten to that either.

I think we can drill through the metal floor plate so the existing bolt will work.

The main problem is the top. Most latches I see assume there is a post available to hold the non-door piece of the latch. Or that there isn't the width of a beam to work around; which there is because I want it on the inside.

I'm having trouble seeing how they would latch to an overhead beam.

I could replace the hook and eye with a thicker, longer eye but can't put too big of one in without weakening the beam too much, especially with the damage done by the original eye ripping out.

The fifth picture is just to shown the whole inside on the doors. The green strap was part of leveling/squaring the building. It didn't stay there.

The sixth picture shows the construction of the north door. Outer layer is the bracing, middle layer is the boards, inner layer is either/both a battan or lip board. It lets the south door overlap the north door and still close flush to the siding.

The north door is intended to act like a wall most of the time. It does need to convert to acting like a lawn and garden shed without much repair due to whatever we do to use it as a coop now.
 

Attachments

  • 1BADC9DC-5B1B-47E8-968B-F0570635F2A3.jpeg
    1BADC9DC-5B1B-47E8-968B-F0570635F2A3.jpeg
    738.2 KB · Views: 15
  • 6BB6A153-4143-47CA-AA67-D6ED8E495FCD.jpeg
    6BB6A153-4143-47CA-AA67-D6ED8E495FCD.jpeg
    519.7 KB · Views: 16
  • 6C740D67-D302-41DF-90FB-790DA0DAF69F.jpeg
    6C740D67-D302-41DF-90FB-790DA0DAF69F.jpeg
    571.9 KB · Views: 13
  • 36218EF7-36C2-4958-A42C-ED269CED3941.jpeg
    36218EF7-36C2-4958-A42C-ED269CED3941.jpeg
    319.5 KB · Views: 12
  • C81B64DE-69C6-44B0-B3D8-6A24546BB882.jpeg
    C81B64DE-69C6-44B0-B3D8-6A24546BB882.jpeg
    567.2 KB · Views: 13
  • 8C69BB25-AE32-4C92-B804-3E5492F010C0.jpeg
    8C69BB25-AE32-4C92-B804-3E5492F010C0.jpeg
    343.7 KB · Views: 14

3KillerBs

Enabler
Premium Feather Member
12 Years
Jul 10, 2009
11,855
30,925
1,116
North Carolina Sandhills
My Coop
My Coop
It should be possible to install an ordinary hasp so that it latches the two sides together.

For the Chicken Palace I chose the larger hasps that are meant to take a padlock since I had trouble getting large carabiners through the holes in the smaller hasps on the brooder.

I also placed two of them top and bottom as a safeguard against a predator getting hold of a warped door and prying it open.

0802211220.jpg
 

jklhgyfhg

Songster
Jul 14, 2021
56
223
106
I have a very similar style shed for my coop, except I don't have the metal plate. Your third photo is the style of latches that we used on both the upper and lower part of the door. This has so far kept it secure for us. It simply fits into the top frame of the door (which it looks like you have the eye screwed into in the fourth photo). My partner cut a scrap of wood to make the latch align with a more secure fit and because of the style of latch its not as easy to fall out be moved by a strong wind.

20210812_065613.jpg


As an added bonus, my partner rigged up a hinged "kickstand" that holds the door in place (open) during the day. It was driving me nuts slamming in the wind. When I close the door I simply latch it up in place and its out of the way.
20210812_065550.jpg


Im not sure if I answered your question, or if this was any help but I hope it helps some!
 

saysfaa

Crowing
Jul 1, 2017
1,201
2,701
281
Upper Midwest, USA
It should be possible to install an ordinary hasp so that it latches the two sides together.

For the Chicken Palace...
Yes, it came with that too. That works well by itself to hold the south door closed if the north door doesn't move. But when the north door isn't held by anything else, they both push out. Then the bar (tongue or whatever it is called) slips out. A longer bar might help if it was also tight enough. I think it would be hard to get it tight enough that there wouldn't be enough play it it to wear too much.

Thank you, I think it would work with a smaller or lighter door or less ventilation to push on it.

Yours looks great!
 

saysfaa

Crowing
Jul 1, 2017
1,201
2,701
281
Upper Midwest, USA
I have a very similar style shed for my coop, except I don't have the metal plate. Your third photo is the style of latches that we used on both the upper and lower part of the door. This has so far kept it secure for us. It simply fits into the top frame of the door (which it looks like you have the eye screwed into in the fourth photo). My partner cut a scrap of wood to make the latch align with a more secure fit and because of the style of latch its not as easy to fall out be moved by a strong wind.

View attachment 2794842

As an added bonus, my partner rigged up a hinged "kickstand" that holds the door in place (open) during the day. It was driving me nuts slamming in the wind. When I close the door I simply latch it up in place and its out of the way. View attachment 2794844

Im not sure if I answered your question, or if this was any help but I hope it helps some!
Yes, that answers it and is very helpful. I was thinking the hole would be too close to the edge of the beam or that it would be really clunky to put a block to line it up further in. Yours works and looks good.

Awesome job on the kick stop!! I've been holding the doors open with cement blocks. Or poles. Or chairs. Or step ladders... none work very well. And all are hard to use.

Thank you!
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Top Bottom