looking for pvc plans for large chicken coop

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by maf2008, Apr 28, 2009.

  1. maf2008

    maf2008 Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Feb 19, 2009
    did someone post a link for a pvc chicken coop? It was HUGE.. I canot find this link or can anyone post plans or photos of a large pvc chicken coop. Any ideas? thanks all [​IMG]
     
  2. ducks4you

    ducks4you Chillin' With My Peeps

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  3. maf2008

    maf2008 Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Feb 19, 2009
    Looks good.... There was one site where the link was to another page that had a large PVC coop with a wood door.... I should have sent a reply.... let me know if anyone else seels Large pvc ""greenhouse" shaped chicken coops.

    Still looking but thanks [​IMG] I maybe can use some of the info1 [​IMG]
     
  4. mygor

    mygor Out Of The Brooder

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    These are not PVC but,1/4" plywood. I made a coop from these plans. To attach the end walls I used short blocks of scrap 2x4s. You can see the back wall of it at my page. Sorry no new pictures of it yet. I'm planing a new one twice as long. With 2 runs at either end so I can alternate between them and reseed the grass when necessary. The coop will be in the center.



    [​IMG]
     
  5. maf2008

    maf2008 Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Thank looks great! :thumbsupwhere is your website? Can I see photos? and how do you get the wood to "bend"?

    I figured out cost and these kind of "greenhouse" pens are easier and much cheaper! [​IMG]

    Thanks and this is what I am looking for. Please send more.
    Why do you choose wood over pvc? more details and thanks! [​IMG]
     
  6. mygor

    mygor Out Of The Brooder

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    Mar 2, 2009
    Mount Perry , Ohio
    Quote:My BYC page! The link is under my avatar. I wanted to use what I had to build with. I had been given a large stack of plywood piece's. They measured 18" x 8' x 3/8". The plans call for 1/4" so I decided to try it. Plywood bends easy when its thin and, the rib's are only 4" wide. The weak spot in those plans is where the ribs attach. It leaves a gap 3/4' wide and 18" long top and bottom. When I build my new one i will use 4 ribs instead of 2. These 2 extra ribs will be shorter and won't attach to the side rails but, instead will fill those gaps and make the ribs thicker and stronger. All the ribs will be glued together making them 1 solid piece. Now this tractor lasted 8 years before some 90 mph winds broke 2 of the ribs. (1 inner on one side and, 1 outer on the other side)

    When I put the end panels in for the coop part I used scrap chunks of 2x4 and made short blocks that I screwed to the ribs. This gave me points to attach the walls. The door frames are made with 2x2 and run all the way up to the ribs from the floor. The walls are fiberglass, I got some free 4'x4' panels from a semi trailer repair shop. It is what is used on trailer roofs. They used to break it up to fit in the dumpster. Now they save it for me in 1 piece. It makes a roll that's 8'x50'. I have used it for roofing and siding on all of my tractors.

    I also did not have the 1"x6" boards that are called for in the plans. So I made some side and, end panels of my own. I used those 3/8" plywood scraps some screws and liquid nails. The side panels are 18"x12'x3/4" and the end panels are 18"x7'x3/4". The coop is still solid, The broken ribs are in the run part.


    Mistakes:

    I had just bought this place so I didn't know that the area that I built the coop on was very damp in the spring. As I mentioned before the ribs need to be solid without the gaps shown in the plans, unless you intend to cover the entire structure with something. I should have built it higher off of the ground.

    I built this for less than 75 dollars 8 years ago. My only cost was for chicken wire, liquid nails, screws and, hardware. If I can move this without to much damage, I will try to repair it later. For now I am planing a new one that is twice as long with 2 runs separated by the coop which will be built in the center. This way I can alternate the use of the runs and reseed the grass when necessary.
     
  7. RendonRoo

    RendonRoo Chillin' With My Peeps

    Feb 7, 2009
    ft. worth
    Only problem with pvc pipe structure is that it will deteriorate in sunlight after about 3 years. I would also be concerned about making it predator proof. I would be a good deal for a short term solution. Good Luck
     
  8. SteveandJayneO

    SteveandJayneO Out Of The Brooder

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    We use electrical PVC ( sunlight resistant) at work. I'm an electrician and the stuff we use lasts much longer than 3 years, we have replaced broken electrical pvc that is almost as old as I am!! Man that's old.
    Steve
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2009
  9. toddslittleacre

    toddslittleacre New Egg

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    sunlight resistant and cheaper than plumbing pvc.
     
  10. socks

    socks Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Pacific Northwest
    Hi, just jumping in here with two feet as I think I have organized my coop, i.e. buying a largish secondhand rabbit hutch and need to come up with a secure, somewhat moveable run.

    toddslittleacre I'm intrigued by your run, (by the way nice playhouse coop!) can you tell me exactly what that pipe is? And do you think I could use something like hardware cloth on it?? I am trying to prepare for marauding raccoons and weasels etc. and need to have a partially covered run that can keep a lot of rain out and handle some wet snow. PVC doesn't seem strong enough for this but this pipe might be....of course I am looking to do this cheaply [​IMG]
     

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