Model HSS09 Chicken Coop in Pleasant Hill, CA

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by Dawsonhall, Dec 6, 2009.

  1. Dawsonhall

    Dawsonhall Pleasant Hill Chicken Ranch

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    Pleasant Hill CA
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    I have bitten by the Chicken Bug, my friends think I am nuts. I have been researching for over a month now and have found a chicken coop that I think will meet my needs. It is called the Model HSS09

    http://www.wholesalechickencoops.com/hss09 chicken coop.html

    I like that fact that I can stand up in the run to clean it. Does anyone have any experience with this coop? I talked with the supplier he said 4 -5 chickens do well in this coop. I plan on getting Silkies, do more Bantams fit in a coop or does that also mean 4 -5 Silkies. I know I have to be careful with crowding.

    Also, though I am urban, we have more that our fair share of racoons. I also had a hawk kill a neighbor's chicken on my garage roof one year. I work full time and the chickens will be in the coop/run during the day's Monday thru Friday for protection from preditors. Are the special issues and concerns because of that?
     
  2. gsim

    gsim Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Be advised that chicken wire will not keep coons, coyotes, or dogs out. You will do best with galv welded wire either 2x2 or 2x4. Then cover over that on bottom 3 ft with 1/2" hardware cloth mesh. Chicken tractors are vulnerable to being dug into. You can lap the hardware cloth out into the grass about 12" to 18" all around. This will make it really hard to dig under, but will also make it a PITA to move/relocate. Have to tie it up in several places all around in order to move it without screwing up the part that laps out on the grass. I would staple the edge on to four 2 x 2's so that they can weigh it down when it is set and also serve as an easy way to tempy pick them up for relocation each time you move it. Also want to make a remote latch/lock system to lockdown coop without having to crawl/walk thru run to do so. That way, if preds get in thru run, they still cannot get into coop. Do not under estimate them. They are ingenious, patient, and less afraid of man in wintertime when food gets scarce.

    For trapping coons, use marshmallows. [​IMG]
     
  3. teach1rusl

    teach1rusl Love My Chickens

    Okay, not to be a dark cloud (and that set-up is very cute), but...
    I've never seen a pre-built coop kit that did NOT advertise that it would hold more chickens than it truly would (at least using healthy guidelines),and did not use picture that were misleading. Now, you may be in a very warm weather area where your chickens would spend almost NO time in the housing area, so that could be a slightly different case. But here is what I see...not including the nest boxes (because that's only for laying), the housing is only 4 sq. feet. For STANDARD breeds (less for banties), it's recommended that they have about 4 sq. feet each of inside space. So even with 2 standard breed chickens, that's a really tight space. Outdoor run footage recommendations are 10 sq. feet per bird (standard sized). The run with that set-up is less than 20 sq. feet. So once more you're looking at 2 chickens. That would be different if they were doing some free ranging daily. And the height was only about 40 inches (the 78 inches was the total length, including the nest box projection), so you'd probably be stooping quite a bit to get in and move around, but it could be done. You could probably get away with 3 bantums in that set-up. If you go for more, I'd keep a sharp eye out for stress issues...

    I did not see a price, but I'm betting you could build a much better coop for the price you're looking at.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2009
  4. gsim

    gsim Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Was able to access web site later when I tried again. I see is not chicken wire which is good. Also see that has remote latch for pop door which is good. Only thing I wonder about is lack of proper ventilation around upper sides of coop. I looked and it is just not there except for one little hole drilled in one side. That is not enough. You could modify it tho easily enough, and I would do so if it was me buying it. Looks like it can accommodate 4 layers.

    According to what can get into your yard in daytime, you might consider a small fence charger and place a hot wire about 6" off the ground all around. You can wire a pigtail onto it so that a drop cord will reach it anywhere it sits in your yard. If your yard is well fenced, you only have to worry about coons digging in. Not as likely in daylight hours, but not unheard of either.

    It is a handsome coop and should cause no complaints from your neighbors. [​IMG]
     
  5. rickc24

    rickc24 Out Of The Brooder

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    Quote:i just built mine and it looks like that............problems are its to small i added a 10 ft run to it and have 8 chickens...you will see how fast u want more because thats what i did...lol....good luck.....think about buliding your own its easy...
     
  6. the Pollo Loco

    the Pollo Loco Chillin' With My Peeps

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    what's the price tag on something like that? I imagine you could build one, it looks pretty simple. either way good luck with your chickens:D
     
  7. chickenshagg

    chickenshagg THE ALPHA ROO

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    It is going to be too small! You will want more than two or three chickens.
     
  8. OrpingtonManor

    OrpingtonManor Building the Castle

    Nov 15, 2008
    Martinez, CA
    It's a cute coop, but a little small. You might be able to keep yourself to 3 chickens. I've stayed with my 4 original girls, and lost one, so now only 3 in my 5' X 7' coop. But if you want to expand, you won't be able to. Local ordinance says you can have 5, since I think you live in Pleasant Hill, just down the road from me. I think that's what Nifty told me, anyway.
     
  9. CityChook

    CityChook Chillin' With My Peeps

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    My Coop
    Just so you have something to compare, I just built a coop very similar to this one, but the footprint of the coop itself is 4x4 (large enough for 3-4 standard chickens - I'm sorry, I don't have experience with Bantams or Silkies) and the run is 8x4. The run (7 ft. tall) is large enough to walk into and close the door behind you. It is fully insulated (including the roof) with R17 fiberglass and sealed with plywood, properly ventilated, fully wired for electricity with outlets and a heat bulb fixture, built with 2x4 green treated wood construction, painted and stained inside and out, has a large glass window and includes a covered (and well braced for snowload) run with welded wire. I have about $500 in retail materials into this coop and it took 3 full weekends to build with limited construction skills. It is predator proof with the exception of the addition of hardware wire to the lower 2 ft. around the run and another 2 ft. buried around the footprint. That should cost around $75-100 more (we didn't do it as it was delivered to a friend off-site). If you have raccoons (and who doesn't, really), then I would not mess around -- get the hardware wire and make sure that you have a coop that is easy to close up and lock on a nightly basis.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  10. Hippie Chickie

    Hippie Chickie Chillin' With My Peeps

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    A few things worry me about this coop. The ventilation is as far as I can see just two little holes. That is not enough. They sell a cover for it!!! Is it not weather proof by itself? I also found the page with the price. At $500 that's way too much. In my opinion it is also far too small for the amount of chickens that it is advertised for. I would post an ad on craigs list looking for someone to build one for you if you feel that building one is beyond your skills. Truly you can generally find used sheds for about $400 and just need to do some small retrofits. That is probably the route I would go.
     

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