Modified Purina Coop with full instructions and pictures (STAGE 2)

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by Sam and Domino, Apr 22, 2012.

  1. Sam and Domino

    Sam and Domino Out Of The Brooder

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    We decided to create a new post or each stage since the original thread would get too long with all the pictures and stuff

    PLEASE NOTE!
    [​IMG]THIS IS STAGE TWO OF FOUR that we will have for the coop. We WILL put the drawings with FULL dimensions up within a couple of days.. Thanks for your posts and comments!

    First, a picture of Hawk @ 3 weeks old.. most wing deather in and wanting to fly the friendly skies!

    [​IMG]
    Hawk at 3 weeks old, wanting to get out to his new place (not yet hawk!)


    Stages

    First stage will be basic structure with floor. ** COMPLETED ** Direct link to first stage

    Second stage will be walls/Laying compartment - This page
    Third stage will be roof and venting.
    Forth stage will be any remaining stuff for the coop
    Fifth stage our protective run, since in Connecticut we have many predators (Hawks, Skunks, Raccoons, Opossums, Fisher Cats, Owls..)

    After we complete the build I will edit this thread to put all materials and prices in one collection. Prices here are a reflection on NEW materials from one of the large chain stores.

    Well here we go!

    Time required: 2 Hours

    Tools needed:

    Circular Saw, Drill, Square, Pencil, Chalk Line, Safety Glasses

    Materials for Stage Two

    4 - sheets of T-111 exterior grade textured board ($25.00ea. Total: $100.00)
    4 - 2x4x8 ($2.80ea. Total 11.20)
    1 box of 1.5" weather-grade screws. ($9.00)
    1 Gallon of Olympic Latex Exterior Grade Paint ($26.00)
    1 tube of Elmer's exterior wood glue ($6.00)
    various brushes and rollers (we have these items)

    Total cost for Stage Two: $152.20 + tax

    We chose pre-primed T-111 and painted directly to do i good job and not needing to prime it ourselves first.

    OK, let's get some work done, the chickens are waiting!

    Step 1 : Add 2x4's to support walls and roof line pitch
    We measured and cut two 2x4x8 to 72".. We screwed them to the top and back supports. We decided to have a 15" overhang on the front, this will help with our plans for a better venting system.

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    Picture of roof supports, to help keep everything plumb when hanging walls

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    Front roof brace, set 1" above top

    [​IMG]

    Please note.. Make sure ALL support legs are plumb prior to screwing these down. These are more to help with holding everything square so make sure they are!

    Step 2 : Add 2x4 sections into base of flooring.. - Last week after finishing up , we noticed that we were going to need additional 2x4's to fill in the holes created by the original Purina design.. this will stop critters like mice from entering..


    Now we used the wood last week we had left over for the most part, but if you use new board, just cut the following and screw like this picture below to align with flooring
    2 pcs of 2x4 cut to 42" - for the two sides
    2 pcs of 2x4 cut to 67" - for the front and back

    Screw in well using screws from last week (3") do this for all four sides your flooring should now match up to outer legs so that we now can add the outside walls.

    [​IMG]
    Use a level to make sure 2x4's stay even with plywood flooring.

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    Another picture of what these 2x4's will do

    THE WALLS

    We did make all the cuts first, since I wanted the girls to paint the first two coats prior to hanging.. here they are doing their part! ( we are only painting the exterior surfaces)
    [​IMG]
    Everybody is busy for the chickens!


    Step 3: Make cuts for front T-111 wall - measure and cut the front wall to 47" high by 75" wide.. (again check your measurements on your coop to verify) mark, snap a chalk line and cut. Then install making sure the bottom edge aligns with the boards at the bottom 2x4's you just installed. Use the 1.5" screws to secure.. we went every 1 foot between starting about 4 inches in from any edge to minimize chances of splitting any boards.

    [​IMG]
    Mark and chalk then cut

    [​IMG]
    Front wall prior to mounting

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    Add screws to the slots for maximum security

    [​IMG]
    Front wall after mounting

    Step 4: Make cuts for the two sides T-111 walls - measure and cut the front wall to 47" high in the front corner, 39" high in the back corner by 51.5" wide.. (again check your measurements on your coop to verify) mark, snap a chalk line, to get the angled cut, just mark and snap the chalk line to get the proper angle (please see picture below for measurement guide). Then install making sure the bottom edge aligns with the boards at the bottom 2x4's you just installed. Use the 1.5" screws to secure.. we went every 1 foot between starting about 4 inches in from any edge to minimize chances of splitting any boards.

    If you want to make one verify and then duplicate, just make sure to flip board over so that you have a mirror of the first or you will have two walls that will be of one side.. ( external face needs to be the opposite)

    make sure the right and left walls extend to meet the face of the front wall as seen below

    [​IMG]
    Left side cut seen here prior to hanging

    [​IMG]
    Right side after hanging with dimensions

    [​IMG]
    Screw area and seam location (looking from front wall)


    Step 5: Cutting back T-111 wall

    Now, we have cut our back wall, here are the dimensions: but we are holding off on mounting until next week. Why? well we are changing up the plans again.. we have decided to cut the back wall in half and we will be mounting so they swing open to the left and right instead of opening to the ground as in the original plans. We figured the weight would be too great on the hinges and for the kids to lift it back into place by themselves. This will also allow us the convenience of only needing to open half of the back if needed.

    So we will post our supplies next week to put the back on..

    Step 6: Cutting in front door

    We placed our door 3" off the floor of the coop, so to do this the easy way, we just measured the inside of the coop center and then up 3" and put a screw in to mark it on the outside.

    Then measure 6" to each side and 12" up with a square to cut out our opening,

    [​IMG]
    Measure each side of the screw 6" for 12" opening

    [​IMG]
    I used a circular saw to make the cutout

    [​IMG]
    Bam! the cutout door for the chickens!

    Step 7: Chicken Nesting Boxes

    OK, we considered a few things for our needs and location of this unit. we are placing the chicken nesting boxes on the right hand wall.. this will allow us to access it from outside the enclosed run that we are building, but the same concept on which wall to place is the same. We also plan on adding two plexiglass windows to the front for light and a removable venting system so that in the winter we can close it up if it gets too cold. (but those are down the road in week 4 projects.

    Since we have 6 hens, we are planning on 3 nesting boxes... the dimensions and build process I will put up here tomorrow night, but here is the picture of the location!


    [​IMG]
    Preview of where we will be placing our chicken nesting boxes

    ** UPDATE ** PDF Drawing are hosted on mediafire, get them here: www.mediafire.com/?cn9fc8h5pa1lggi
    Unfortunately I have to work [​IMG] and we are consistently making adjustments to fitting our needs in stage 3 and 4 and don't want anyone wasting wood due to our changes.. So I'd rather hold off on putting more information up when we may change it.. We don't want anybody wasting $$ on this project.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2012
  2. speedy2020

    speedy2020 Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Since you are already build up, or I would suggest lattice floor or large wire gauge rabbit wire floor for easy cleaning. You can add removable the poop board underneath to keep the them warm during winter. There is too much waste cleaning with solid floor.
     
  3. Mikedero

    Mikedero Chillin' With My Peeps

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    I think you missed where you attached the wood to the top? I also did mine differently or I screwed up my front is only 4 feet I put the legs incorrectly at this point it is to late to change so I am going with it. I was going with a minor change putting the nesting boxes on the side vs the front because I am enclosing the front for the run. but I am kicking myself for messing up the design. what was the cut for the 2 2X4's for the top where the roof attaches.
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2012
  4. Sam and Domino

    Sam and Domino Out Of The Brooder

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    Apr 2, 2012
    sorry .. adding that story now.. wasn't finished with post and there is no draft mode... we origianlly put them there just to get the pitch that we wanted and to stabilize the unit while attaching the walls.. please see abve for size..

    thanks
     
  5. Mikedero

    Mikedero Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Mar 22, 2012
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    thanks, looking forward to the rest of the story. I told my wife I feel guilty that you are doing all the work and I am coping it. Well I do not feel bad now because I messed up on the feet.

    Thanks for the help
     
  6. Sam and Domino

    Sam and Domino Out Of The Brooder

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    Apr 2, 2012
    Don't give up, it can always be fixed and the great thing is the chickens don't care.. [​IMG]

    As long as they are inside, they will be happy!
     
  7. Mikedero

    Mikedero Chillin' With My Peeps

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    I have a question the drawings you are putting up will that be the finished product? because I am hoping to get the roof and this stage done over the week into the weekend. I know I am jumping the gun but what roofing are you planning, shingle? I have to complete it next week to get the chickens in. I will be keeping them in the brooder just placing it in the coop. The wife wants them off the sun porch
     
  8. Sam and Domino

    Sam and Domino Out Of The Brooder

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    Apr 2, 2012
    LOL,tell her you can't rush perfection!

    Um, I will TRY to get the roof sizing done tomorrow night.. I am purchasing everything as I go.. So I will need to get out there and finalize our roof design.. But yes, Shingles... I was given to bundles from a carpenter (thanks John) so I will be probably using 1/2 inch plywood framed with tar paper then the shingles.. Like I said we will be having a overhang front and back.. not really sure about the sides.. I think it kind of makes it look to heavy and truthfully why give the snow a better chance of taking it down? less roof area = better chances of survival in the winter...

    I will get the roof up asap.. possible tom night.. at the same time if you are in a rush you could just take the purina plans and add 2 feet to the length since the basic structure is just 2' longer than their layout..
     
  9. Mikedero

    Mikedero Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Watertown CT
    that works for me no rush I just pretty much needed to know what itemms to get at home depot, post when you normally do. I will get the items tomorrow night and I can not work on it until the rain stops. I wish I had a garage like you do. Ok another dumb question this coop is going to weigh a ton how are you going to move it? I plan on putting it in place and doing step 2 where it will be. I talked to the wife I have been given another week so that works well for me.

    Oh one thing I plan on changing is I will be adding a gutter to the back and the rain water going into a 55 gallon barrel and hooking up a auto water system with the drip nipples ( sorry I do not know the correct name) as well as using a 5 gallonhanging water jug for the chickens I saw a post on here someone doing that. I also might add the heater strips used on roofs to melt the snow I have them on my house it saved me allot of damage 2 years ago when we got all that snow
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2012
  10. Sam and Domino

    Sam and Domino Out Of The Brooder

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    lol, we where talking about gutters too! Yes, it is heavy now.. we are going to move it this weekend to its final place.. but I will not until the roof is on.. so stage three will result in roof and move.. move will be first.. I am debating on whether to piece the roof rather than build and try to lift.. not sure yet.. it also depends on who will help with this step I will lwt you know.. but the sooner it is put into its final resting place the better!
     

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