My coop and run build!

JoeInPA

Songster
Aug 25, 2019
312
740
191
Western Pennsylvania
So I have 5 chicks, 2 that are 6 weeks old and 3 that are only days old. I built an 8' by 8' by 4' tall run last week and the two older birds have been going outside every day, but I'm still bringing them back in the garage and putting them in their 50 gallon Rubbermaid bin brooder at night. Here is the run-

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I've been slacking on building the coop but I finally started it last night and did some more work today. It's coming along nicely. This was my basic design-

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I began building last night, and left off with the basic 'platform' assembled. It is 4' by 5' and 2' off the ground.

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Today I began framing the actual coop area. Here is where I got to before I ran out of wood. I need to run to Home Depot and buy more 2x4s but it us starting to take shape. I decided to shorten it from 4' and 5' off the platform to 3' and 4' because 5' tall off of the platform was just too big. I need to get it moved into place before it gets to be too heavy!

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Thanks aart!

I have to keep the overhangs on the back limited to about 4 or 5 inches so that they don't interfere with the nesting box door. I do plan on extensive use of hardware cloth, in the soffits and else where. Will the soffits alone be enough ventilation?

Anyways here is where I got today. I got it set level and pretty much have most of the framing done. I have my large side door built as well as a long door for access to nesting boxes. The rafters are just temporarily in place, they need to be set on end and moved a bit.

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Thanks! I read 2-3 square feet per bird in the coop, but that could be incorrect. I did read 10 sq ft per bird in the run, so 64 square feet leaves me enough room for another bird with a little space to spare. I didn't want to make the coop too big because I was afraid of it being difficult to heat in the winter, that's why I went 4x5. Also lumber is sold in 8 and 10 foot lengths which makes for minimal cutting and wasted lumber.
You do not heat a coop, especially where you live. The most important idea you need to learn when dealing with chickens and winter is a dry chicken is a warm chicken. The important idea is to vent all the moist warm air out of the coop. Chickens make a lot of moisture while pooping and breathing. A chicken can get frostbite in a coop that is just below freezing but humid. My chickens do fine in a unheated coop at -22 F.

You want the vents open and up high so that no breeze that might fluff feathers blows on the chickens. The chickens trap warm air in their lovely down coats. Think about those little sparrows that twit around all winter long. They trap the heat under their feathers and go about their lives.
 
I have to keep the overhangs on the back limited to about 4 or 5 inches so that they don't interfere with the nesting box door. I do plan on extensive use of hardware cloth, in the soffits and else where. Will the soffits alone be enough ventilation?
Think about nest access being on the back instead of the top, then you can seal up the top better(hinged nest top is the most common place for leaks to occur) and have larger over hangs.

In winter the soffit vents should suffice, summer you may need more...
...glazed windows that open for ventilation in summer and light when closed in winter.
 
You will want as big a coop as possible. If you do not roof and protect your run from the breezes the birds will not want to go outside. Crowding inside a coop makes for behavior issues. They fight. They start to feather pick. Last winter I had 6 chickens in an 8' by 6' coop. There is 10 square feet of open vents that are never closed. There is no heat. There is no insulation. They did fine. In fact they thrive in those conditions even with days below 0. Chickens have a more difficult time dealing with heat while they wear those down coats.
 
So got a little more work done today. The framing is all done, I now need to start the sheathing which will probably be 1/4" plywood. The roof will be the thicker 5/8" plywood like the floor.

I did modify my nesting box door, so it is now on the bottom and doesn't interfere with the roof overhangs. I also made it larger and it now hinges down instead of up. I added a couple windows which I have covered with 1/2" hardware cloth and I also covered the soffit/fascia area with 1/2" hardware cloth.

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