My coop so far, inside layout advice?!

Discussion in 'Guinea Fowl' started by sunnie7, Jun 12, 2019 at 6:10 PM.

  1. sunnie7

    sunnie7 Chirping

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    126A8FAA-6C4F-49A9-A650-4A26FFEFE7D8.jpeg [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]Well so far here’s what my hubby has got done so far. I told him up maybe 2’ on the blackjack 57, what can I say he’s an overachiever! Obviously we won’t keep the windows open this much and we need to figure out a way to put some type of overhang so rain won’t get into the widows. Any suggestions on layout for the inside? I have 15 keets...right now and the shed is 8x8. I’m thinking I want the nest boxes on one of the side walls and maybe putting the pop door on the front to the right of the big door. These are the nest boxes that were given to us, my husband said he thinks he might cut them down so we don’t have so many. Possibly someday I might let the Guineas roost outside in the trees and use this coop for chickens. I want do have poop boards for the roosts but I’m not sure how many roosts I should have and where to place them? Suggest please!!! Also what type of waterer do most of you use for the Guineas?
     
  2. courtsmarans

    courtsmarans In the Brooder

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    The structure of the coop looks awesome, great ventilation and a large space. How I have my two coops set up is the nesting on one wall, water and grit/oyster shell feeder on the other wall, roost on the other wall and then the feed container hanging from the ceiling in the middle. I find this set up works best for me and keeps the middle free for the chickens to move around with the feeder at easy access. Most of this is personalized to your standards.
    Good luck and show us some updated pictures!
     
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  3. R2elk

    R2elk Free Ranger

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    Don't be surprised if you have to leave the windows wide open during the heat of the summer.

    Put the roosts as high as you can with one at an intermediate height to aid in access to the higher roosts.

    Personally, I would not put those nest boxes in a guinea coop. Guineas are ground nesters and prefer hidden nests. Some people have had success by using hay or straw bales to form hidden "caves" for their guineas to nest in.
     
  4. courtsmarans

    courtsmarans In the Brooder

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    I must have completely read over that there was going to be guineas haha. Though I do not know much about these birds I do know that they are ground nesters, as R2elk said
     
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  5. R2elk

    R2elk Free Ranger

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    I forgot to add that guineas can be very mean to each other. It is beneficial to add places where they can escape and hide. Make sure these places have a separate entrance and exit so the guineas do not get trapped in their hide outs. A simple escape site can be made simply by leaning a wide board, etc. against a wall.

    It is also beneficial to have multiple (at least 2) feeders and waterers in different locations so that flock members that are low on the pecking order can get to food and water without being attacked.
     
    Unicornlife3316 likes this.
  6. sunnie7

    sunnie7 Chirping

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    So no nesting boxes at all just a hay bale on the floor?! Do the 5 gal bucket waterer me with the horizontal nipplles or cups work for Guineas? I’ve been using the verticals nipples with my keets in the boarder but I was hoping to switch to the least messy option!

    What’s about spacing of the roosts? Does the ladder style work well for Guineas or should I do one with a poop board underneath on two separate walls? Pictures would be helpful!

    What about size of poop door? 10x12?
     
  7. R2elk

    R2elk Free Ranger

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    I forgot all about the 15 keets. An 8'x8' coop is too small for that many guineas once they are adults. The recommended minimum is 4 sq. ft. per bird of unencumbered floor space. That means you have to plan for the extra room required for feeders, waterers, etc. The more room they have the better off they are. I have 12 adult guineas in an 8'x12' coop and it is cramped quarters for them.

    [​IMG]
    In the heat of the summer the walk in door is propped open during the daytime to keep the coop from getting too hot. Both windows are fully open also.
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    The bird door is 12"x12" but one that is 10"wide by 12" high would work just as well.
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    My guineas spend most of their roosting time in the rafters. They do seem to like the lower roosts as steps to the rafters. The "nest box" in the lower right gets used for the first eggs of the year until they get tired of me stealing the eggs and they decide to hide their nests outside.
    [​IMG]
    They really do like their skylight.

    Perhaps @BennieAnTheJets will post some pics of her coop, nests and roosts.
     
  8. sunnie7

    sunnie7 Chirping

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    Mine will be free ranging. This was going to be my chicken coop....but while building our house last fall my husband got RMSP and Lymes from a tick bite on our property so I decided I wanted Guineas first for tick control. Our neighbors down the road have Guineas and they let them sleep in the trees. I will probably do that eventually but with this being my starter flock and while they are still young I want them to have the coop for now and get them out of the garage.

    I see you don’t have poop boards...what all do you use for the beddding on the floor of your coop and how often do you have to change it?!
     
  9. R2elk

    R2elk Free Ranger

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    Mine are free ranging also but are always cooped for the night. I lost all of my first flock to Great Horned owls because I let them sleep wherever they wanted. Now I always coop them at night and have not lost any more to predators. They are very vulnerable to predators at night especially when hiding out on nests. There are many predators that can and will take them out of the trees at night.

    I am sure that your neighbor whose guineas that sleep in the trees, is losing guineas to nighttime predators. Indiana is not free of predators.

    I live on a sand dune so sand is the base for everything here. I do not add any bedding materials and shovel the droppings whenever I need to.
     
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