My hen has been broody for a long time

Chickenma2021

Songster
Aug 15, 2021
149
125
116
Ontario, Canada
My almost 1 year old azure blue hen has been broody for well over 3 weeks. She has probably been broody for more that that. I have tried using ice packs, removing any eggs, not putting much nesting material in the laying boxes and cold water and she is still broody. I will take her out of the coop once or twice a day so she eats but then she runs toward the forest and wont come back for a while, what's happening?? What should I do?
 
My almost 1 year old azure blue hen has been broody for well over 3 weeks. She has probably been broody for more that that. I have tried using ice packs, removing any eggs, not putting much nesting material in the laying boxes and cold water and she is still broody. I will take her out of the coop once or twice a day so she eats but then she runs toward the forest and wont come back for a while, what's happening?? What should I do?
Does she have a hidden nest? I had a friend whose hen did that... Came marching out of the woods with 8 babies in tow...
 
Sounds like you tried everything except the one most recommended technique.

Broody jail: Put her in an isolation cage with some food and water, in sight of the others (in the coop if it's not too hot or in/near the run is ideal). A wire cage elevated to air flow under her would be the best option, however I've used everything from a brooder to a dog exercise pen.

Keep her in the cage around the clock for about 2 days. At that time, if she's shows fewer signs of broodiness (puffing up, flattening down and growling, tik tik tik noise) you can let her out to test her. If she runs back to the nest at any point (usually they don't do it immediately, but maybe after 15 minutes, maybe an hour) then she's not yet sufficiently broken and needs to go back to the cage for another 24 hours. Then let her out and test her again. Repeat until she's no longer going to the nest box.

IF the isolation cage is not safe for overnight stay (i.e. sits outside the run, run not predator proof) then put her on the roost at night, and retrieve her from the nest box the next morning and put her back in the cage. It may take a little longer this way but better than letting a predator get to her.
 
I will try that! I do happen to have an isolation pen that is somewhat predetor proof, but is not good for overnight. I will try that for the next couple of days.

She is also quite underweight, do you have any suggestions to get her back to normal?
Good luck!

No experience in "fattening" a bird up but some higher protein feed probably wouldn't hurt to get her back in condition. Broodies often molt afterwards as well so that'll help her get through that molting period as well. Broodies don't tend to eat as much so getting her broken should help get her back on a more normal eating schedule, and hopefully she'll stabilize from there.
 
Good luck!

No experience in "fattening" a bird up but some higher protein feed probably wouldn't hurt to get her back in condition. Broodies often molt afterwards as well so that'll help her get through that molting period as well. Broodies don't tend to eat as much so getting her broken should help get her back on a more normal eating schedule, and hopefully she'll stabilize from there.
Thanks!
 

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