Nasty discharge on rear end ..Graphic PICS!!!

Discussion in 'Emergencies / Diseases / Injuries and Cures' started by Beaky Buzzard, Jul 31, 2011.

  1. Beaky Buzzard

    Beaky Buzzard Chillin' With My Peeps

    My hen Snowball has a pasty rear. She is 1 and a half years old. She is perfectly normal exept for her rear. This all started after she was egg bound.I clean her once or twice a day.She has been like this for 4 or5 months.Any advice for a cure or the cause of the issue would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!

    Here is her rear.


    In the yard with her buddies Dobsey and Ru
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2011
  2. scratch'n'peck

    scratch'n'peck Overrun With Chickens

    Oct 31, 2008
    West Michigan
    My Coop
    I haven't experienced this with my chickens, but I wonder if a partial prolapse could cause such a problem. Perhaps others will have a more definite idea...
  3. Miss Lydia

    Miss Lydia Loving this country life Premium Member

  4. Beaky Buzzard

    Beaky Buzzard Chillin' With My Peeps

    What is a prolasped vent?It is not as bad when does not free range.
  5. scratch'n'peck

    scratch'n'peck Overrun With Chickens

    Oct 31, 2008
    West Michigan
    My Coop
    Miss Lydia's suggestion sounds like it is worth exploring.

    I'm don't know as it is a prolapse, but here is some info I found on another thread:

    Prolapse Information and Treatment

    When a hen lays an egg the lower part of the oviduct is momentarily everted through the cloaca. Normally the hen can retract the oviduct after laying.

    A prolapse occurs when the hen cannot retract it and a part of the oviduct remains outside the body

    Causes can be:
    1. Being too fat
    2. Older hens
    3. And in early laying pullets with low bodyweight
    4. Eating feed that has too high an energy level
    5. Or a fright can cause the hens’ oviduct to prolapse
    6. When the hen ruptures the muscle in her vent while laying and egg.
    7. Obesity (excess fat)
    8. Early sexual maturity contribute to this condition
    9. Common causes of early sexual maturity are increasing day lengths during the growing period, obesity and switching to the laying ration too early

    A mass of tissue, often bloody and dirty, can be seen protruding through the vent

    This is a real blow when it occurs, because it is often the best layers that are affected

    Fortunately, it is not very common

    Prolapse is difficult to cure because the hen continues to lay, and forces the organs out again after they have been replaced

    A prolapse attracts the other birds to cannibalism, pen mates seeing the blood usually pick the bird to death.

    Debeaking or pick guards will reduce picking, but will not remove the underlying cause.

    To prevent obesity in pullets, monitor their body weight and condition.

    Restrict their energy intake if they are putting on too much fat.

    First line of defence – Treatment:

    Chickens that show signs of prolapse can be helped by preventing them laying. However, if there is any small prolapse gently push it back into the chicken with your fingers.

    The chicken should then be put on a maintenance diet of wheat and water and put in a dark cage. Leave the hen there for a week.

    In severe prolapse a purse suture and maintenance diet with the chicken kept in the dark, as above, works well. However, it is important to restrict the chickens diet to maintenance only for possibly a couple of months.

    This does work!!

    Alternative to maintenance diet is feeding the chicken enough to keep it alive, moving and keeping warm plus enough extra feed for it to produce eggs.

    You may find that by reducing the feed it brings on a forced molt

    By reducing feed intake so that the bird has just enough feed to keep it alive, moving and keeping warm you are feeding for maintenance only. The chicken will not lay eggs and so give it the best chance of recovery.

    You can try to push the prolapse organs back in, very carefully

    First, remove the hen immediately from the flock to prevent cannibalism

    Clean the prolapse organ

    Which will have become dirty

    Use warm water and a very mild soap

    Smear with a lubricating jelly like Vaseline and very gently push the prolapsed organs back into the body cavity

    Isolating the bird and reduce the feed to try and stop her laying

    She more than likely she has another egg already moving down the oviduct

    The next egg laid could cause another prolapse

    Helping to prevent further damage when a hen is prolapsed

    1. Reducing swelling and allowing the muscles to contract
    2. Preventing a yeast infection
    3. Preventing them laying
    4. If there is any small prolapse gently push it back into the chicken with your fingers
    5. Put the hen on a maintenance diet of wheat and water
    6. Put in a dark cage to stop the laying cycle (5 days to 2 months (severe case))
    7. In severe prolapse a purse suture may be need to the cloaca

    Wash area with sterile water and using preparation-H (this is an ointment used for humans who have piles or hemaroids)
    Coat the extended portion in and around the vent area.
    Preparation -H reduces the swelling tissue and thus allows the tissue to recede.

    If the bird is left in this condition, the other birds will peck at her, and she will become infected and fly blown, die from loss of blood or blood poisoning
    You should cull the bird immediately if this happens

    A prolapse is not a disease and the bird can still be eaten

    Even using some oral teething gel and put a dab of that on the vent and prolapse to numb it a little before you push it in. Some of the tissue doesn't have much in the way of nerves, but the vent will and it can be sore.

    Check to see if any of the birds intestines are hanging out through the prolapse.. if there is .. you best option is to put the bird down, or seek vetinary help to have it put back in quickly or the bird will die from septic poisoning or obstruction (which is very painful)

    If she is still able to pass droppings, then continue to push the prolapse in.

    It will probably come out again, especially if it has been injured and has a scab forming on it. The scab will stimulate the hen to push the prolapse back out again.
    Removed any scab that is "ready" to be removed (don’t want to cause further bleeding or injury by removing the scab if it isn’t ready to come off… so I only started to try removing it after about 5 days , it may take up to 10 to get it off completely).

    Bath it twice a day, pushed it very gently back in after putting a bit of numbing gel on it and a bit of KY jelly.

    Hold the prolapse in for a minute or two before sliding your finger out.
    The prolapse would usually come out again after a bit, but if you do this twice a day, it seemed to "rebuild" the muscles where the tissue was supposed to be!

    Keep the bird in a very clean pen with no shavings or anything to stick to the prolapse.
    After this time the scabs should all be off and the tissue should be staying in place
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2011
  6. chkn

    chkn Chillin' With My Peeps

    Jun 27, 2010
    I would clean her up and put some neosporine on the red area. Use the neosporine without the pain reliever. No way that's not a prolapse. I know there's been some discussion here on how to deal with pasty butt but I can't recall what you're supposed to do so you might want to use the search function.
  7. Beaky Buzzard

    Beaky Buzzard Chillin' With My Peeps

    Thanks for replying!!![​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
  8. nurse_turtle

    nurse_turtle Chillin' With My Peeps

    May 28, 2011
    Foothills of NC
    Looks like a fungal infection, maybe yeast. I would apply an over the counter anti-fungal like lotrisone (used for athelete's foot) or a topical yeast cream. These don't have to be especially for chickens. I would use the Walmart brand even. I am very familiar with fungal infections in humans. Maybe a butt is a butt is a butt...
  9. Beaky Buzzard

    Beaky Buzzard Chillin' With My Peeps

    Snowballs rear did not look as bad today. I didnt have to wash it. Hopefully she will heal on her own.[​IMG]
  10. Bleenie

    Bleenie Wyan-DO's

    She may be reacting to a soap that you're using or she could have mites. Mites can cause redness around the vent and sometimes their butts will get gunky too. I just went through this with my 2 BR's and had to trim, was & dust the next day.. they look good now though. Check for any crawlers around the vent & under the wings(like the wing pit area), also if she has poultry lice they leave clumps of eggs on the feather shafts and like the down feathers on the butt/belly & above the tail.

    If you see no bugs, definitely try the anti-fungal creme. If you are using soap though I would quit using that kind. I used Dawn Dishsoap on my girls & animals when they get into anything, it never bothers them.

    Good luck with your pretty girl [​IMG]

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