need a few bits of advice on new coop interior

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by ericz, Nov 24, 2011.

  1. ericz

    ericz Out Of The Brooder

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    Mar 16, 2011
    media pa
    howdy,

    i will be taking advantage of a few days off to make a sizeable dent in the new coop project (figuratively). i hope to get the roof on, but before that i want to make sure i have the interior all figured out.

    looking at the pictures below, i want to keep the left-hand section of the coop darker, because this is where the nest-boxes will go (two kitty-litter containers screwed to 2x10s for weight and stability) in the floor. so i put a divider in there as you can see, big enough for the chickens to walk under, but hopefully tall enough to block some light. the left-front will be two parts... imagine a sheet of plywood covering the opeing, then cut it in half horizontally. the top half will be fixed to the coop just below the clerestory vents, and the bottom half will be hinged to swing upward. i will prop it up with a stick or something so i can reach in to retrieve eggs and clean the litter as necessary, then latch it at the bottom when closed.

    in the right-hand section will be the roosts (two 2x2s running laterally), and on the right end, the door, which will have a ladder or ramp down into the run area (i am expecting in the mail soon an add-a-motor and solar power kit). i have a salvage window that will attach with hinges at the top just below the clerestory vents, so the bottom will swing up-and-out in the summer for extra ventilation. i will have hardware cloth behind the opening for security. below the window i will have another upward-swinging door like the one on the left-hand side, for cleaning and other occasional access. in addition to the window, i will have a solar light in the roof itself (soda-bottle light through the roof. all the light will be in the right-hand section of the coop.

    so that's my plan... does anybody see any flaws or have any better suggestions? i am in USDA zone 6-7, and have a RIR hen and a cochin bantam hen, but will be getting four more big hens in the spring (from chicks), so total of six birds.

    thanks in advance for your time and advice,

    -eric

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  2. Judy

    Judy Moderator Staff Member

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    I'd widen the roosts so the chickens can sit on their feet and cover them better in below freezing temps. The wide side of a 2x4 will do this fine. How many chickens, and how far from the wall will the roost be? You may only need one; they won't use more than 10" of linear space per bird except maybe in the heat of summer. Mine squish together in about 6" each when it's cool or cold. If they will be large fowl, they need nearly a foot between roost and wall.
     
  3. Tilly's Nest

    Tilly's Nest Out Of The Brooder

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    What are your thoughts about including feeders and waterers inside of the coop, or do you plan to keep those outside?
     
  4. ericz

    ericz Out Of The Brooder

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    Mar 16, 2011
    media pa
    Quote:2 chickens this winter (RIR and bantam cochin). 4 more RIRs or similar next spring. will change to 2x4, thanks for the tip! knowing i will eventually have 6 total, will 4' of 2x4 roost be enough?



    Tilly's Nest :

    What are your thoughts about including feeders and waterers inside of the coop, or do you plan to keep those outside?

    good question. i will be doing the deep-litter method, so what would you advise? i'm not going to be heating the coop, but will get a heated water dish and run an extension cord for that, but only for the winter, and that will not be inside for fear of fire. the rest of the time i will use a 2-gallon metal waterer. i was thinking about hanging both the feedre and waterer from underneath of the coop, which will be a part of the run.​
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2011
  5. Hunter0704

    Hunter0704 Chillin' With My Peeps

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    I'd suggest covering your wood floor with lineoleum even with the deep litter method...keep the floor dry otherwise it will warp. One idea I saw on BYC that I wish I had done just for ease in cleaning, is lay the lineoleum also going up the side walls about 6 inches.
    Make sure you have vents in the top of the coop that are open all year round...especially in the winter you need these.
    Don't forget suggested roosts 12 inches from wall...otherwise poop down the inside wall is a mess to clean.
    Hanging the feeder and waterer under the coop is a great idea...keeps the food and water from getting hot in the summer.

    Looks like you've got yourself a nice coop! Post pics when you get it done, ok?
     
  6. simplynewt

    simplynewt Chillin' With My Peeps

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    My Coop
    Tilly's Nest :

    What are your thoughts about including feeders and waterers inside of the coop, or do you plan to keep those outside?

    I would keep these outside as they do not see very well if at all in the dark and it would just be more of a mess for you to clean up. I keep mine in the run and the coop is very easy to clean now and I do it less frequently.​
     
  7. ericz

    ericz Out Of The Brooder

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    Mar 16, 2011
    media pa
    here's my progress so far. i will tar-paper and shingle tomorrow. i still need to assemble the upwards-swinging door which will be below the window. i'll do that tomorrow as well. then i'll put linoleum on the floor and fasten all the latches and catches and door pulls etc. i will also cut and fasten the trim around the window as well as do all the sealing and weatherstripping to keep out drafts.

    i still need to figure out how i'm going to do the roosts. they will go in the side that has the window. my door will be 12" tall, so i guess i should make the roosts higher than that, but low enough to keep out of the ventilation path between the rear and front clerestory vents. i'll use 2x3s with the wide edge flat.

    i have not cut the door opening yet nor assembled the track in which the door will slide. the door will most likely be a plastic cutting board. i have an automatic opener and solar power kit on the way.

    after all that, i will fence in the underneath, but make the front part downward-swinging so i can access the feeder and waterer. the left end and the back will be fixed... that is, the fencing will be nailed / stapled directly to the wood. the right end will not be fanced, as it will open into the attached run (not shown). when everything else will be complete, i'll pull the run right up against the coop, fasten a ramp i built last spring, and seal up any gaps where a predator could get in between the coop and the run.

    let me know if you have any advice on what i have left to do.

    thanks,

    -eric

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  8. CheerioLounge

    CheerioLounge Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Looks really good to me! I don't think I can offer any advice that you haven't already received, except to make sure the roosts are not placed within pooping range of nest boxes. What a mess that can be!!
     
  9. ericz

    ericz Out Of The Brooder

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    Mar 16, 2011
    media pa
    thanks! the nesting boxes will be in the left-hand side, which has now window, also i will install a partial divider between the two sides, high enough for the birds to walk under, but hopefully enough to block some light, to give the nesting area a bit of seclusion. you can see it in the first couple of pictures in this thread. i removed it so i could do other work, but it will go back in when i'm all done with the automatic door and the roosts. there's also a picture of one of my kitty-litter-container nest boxes.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2011
  10. MR.PEEPS

    MR.PEEPS Out Of The Brooder

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    Nov 25, 2011
    Stanwood
    thats nice
     

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