need advice on hatching turkey eggs

Discussion in 'Incubating & Hatching Eggs' started by good ole boy, Jul 3, 2011.

  1. good ole boy

    good ole boy Out Of The Brooder

    82
    1
    39
    Feb 22, 2011
    sharpsburg, kentucky
    i am going to be setting some turkey eggs on tuesday so my questions are, my water tray has different compartments for water so which compartments should i fill for the very first 25 days and do i fill them all up the last 3 days. also i was told that turkey poults need to eat and drink after they hatch much quicker than chicks do. my bator is a genisis 1588 model. any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks
     
  2. Stacykins

    Stacykins Overrun With Chickens

    4,356
    202
    258
    Jan 19, 2011
    Escanaba, MI
    Quote:I'd suggest investing in a digital hygrometer. If you get a cheaper one, you can calibrate it with the salt method (described below) so you know how much it is off. Because of your ambient humidity where you are, no way to determine how much you need to fill. People who live in dry climates may need to fill all three and then some, or people in humid climates may only need one, even none filled. You need to measure it in some way, which is what the hygrometer is for.

    Turkey poults, I hate to say it, I love them but they are kinda dim when they first hatch. They still have the yolk to live on, so they don't need to eat and drink faster, but I like to teach them from the start. It seems chicken chicks automatically learn to eat and drink without much need to teach them. Turkey poults, on the other hand, need guidance. When I remove dried poults from the incubator, I dip their beaks in the brooder waterer first thing so they get a sip. Once they are all done hatching, I do that again for everyone one time. I also put shiny marbles in the waterer. I learned here that to entice them to eat at first, don't use a chick feeder for the first day or so, but instead make a little aluminum foil box with very low edges (maybe a centimeter high, just to keep food in), and spindle the crumble in there. They will be attracted to peck it because it is shiny, and then they figure out it is food! I convert them to a chick feeder then so they aren't walking all over it. Thankfully, once one figures out what food is, it can help the rest learn too. Adding a few young chicken chicks can help slow poults learn.

    Salt method of calibration:
    Used to calibrate hygrometers to determine how much it is off. What you do is take a gatorade cap (or something small that can hold liquid, I think beer bottle caps are too tiny though) and fill it up with food salt, normal NaCl, doesn't matter if it is iodized. Then, use a little bit of water and use enough to make the salt damp with cold tap water. You don't want it to be saturated, but you don't want it to be clumpy and dry still. Then, pop the hygrometer and the salt/water holder into a ziplock bag and seal it for at least 12 hours. At the end of the 12 hours, the humidity should read 75%. If the hygrometer reads something like 72%, then it is +/- 3%, that is how much it is off. Now you know when you use that hygrometer that if it reads say 44%, it could really be 41% or 47%. It gives you a good ballpark estimate of humidity!
     
  3. Saltysteele

    Saltysteele Chillin' With My Peeps

    624
    4
    121
    Apr 10, 2011
    MI
    you NEED a hygrometer, unless you have a "throw the seed in the wind and see what happens" kinda person [​IMG] [​IMG]

    we don't have the same incubator or same type of incubator, but we would fill the 2 smaller trays during incubation, and then fill the 2 smaller trays and the larger tray for lockdown, closing the vents most of the way.

    without knowing how many water trays you even have, it's hard to say [​IMG]
     

BackYard Chickens is proudly sponsored by