Pen and Coop Supplies

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by cchuba, Jan 13, 2011.

  1. cchuba

    cchuba New Egg

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    I'm getting ready to build a coop for 7 bantams, with the possibility of adding 2 or 3 more to my flock. I'm thinking about it being 6 feet in length, 8 feet in width, and 6.5 feet in height. I have a general idea of the supplies I need - lumber, nails, screws, chicken wire, and roofing material. I'm wondering if anyone knows what size wood worked best for the frame of the pen as well as for the coop. I have absolutely no carpentry experience, however I do have a couple of friends ,who have woodworked for a multitude of years, helping me build this. Also, does anyone know anything about spray insulation, and if it is chicken safe? I was thinking about using it to insulate the coop. Thanks.
     
  2. elmo

    elmo Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Welcome to the forum!

    First of all, I would recommend that you use hardware cloth (welded wire) rather than chicken wire for predator protection. Whatever insulation you use will need to be covered up because chickens will peck at it. I used thin plywood to cover the insulation in my coop.

    I have 9 bantams in this coop and run:

    https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=32217-the-just-right-coop

    It's working out beautifully.
     
  3. Talihofarms

    Talihofarms Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Dec 4, 2010
    Galv poultry wire on the sides. And cover the top with 1" HD pultry netting.
    A hot wire at 4". 12" and 36" around perimiter has kept all predators away from our runs.


    As far as foam insulation goes I would not spend the money. We happen to be in the bus. and I can tell you it cost 3-4 times more than Fiberglass Batts.

    However no matter what you use.
    You will have to cover the walls with either plywood or even better yet FRP. (chickens will tear any insulation up and eat it, if exposed)


    With FRP on the bottom 4' of the walls you can use a hose or press. washer to clean the walls, and never have to wory about water penetrating through.


    Also I would use nothing but treated wood. Green.

    4x4 posts 3-5' oc and 3/4" ply on the floors.


    just my.02
     
  4. patandchickens

    patandchickens Flock Mistress

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    Quote:For the coop itself, find a do-it-yourself shed or playhouse book with lotsa step by step photos. There are a lot on the market, if your library doesn't have one they should be able to do interlibrary loan, or try bookstores or Amazon. You can adapt dimensions to some extent from what the book has.

    For the pen, it depends whether you intend it to be roofed. If you want a roof, basically you will be building another shed with only wire mesh on the walls (or an extension of the shed that is your coop, so that it's a BIG shed with only part of it being solidly-enclosed). This is actually better done post-construction style than stud-wall-construction style, but you can use stud walls as long as you are using pressure treated wood for all portions near the ground and have it VERY STRONGLY anchored down so it don't blow away in a storm.

    The sizes of wood you use in a shed will depend on the engineering, which is why I'm really recommending you work from plans in a book. If you make it up yourself, you can run your detailed plans by us and we can suggest appropriate dimensions and spacings, but adapting a book plan is really much easier for you [​IMG]

    OTOH if (like most people) you do not intend for the pen to be roofed (although you can stretch netting over top to discourage hawks), it is just building a fence and putting wire on it. Use wood posts (p/t or cedar posts at least 4x4" or 4" round) for at least the corners, preferably for all posts, and to help you stretch the wire flat you may want horizontal members (2x4 or 2x6) along top and bottom. Consider adding an apron on the outside for digproofing too.

    Also, does anyone know anything about spray insulation, and if it is chicken safe? I was thinking about using it to insulate the coop. Thanks.

    Isn't rigid panel insulation or fiberglas insulation *cheaper*? I'd suggest using the cheapest thing, frankly. It is okay to have teensy air gaps here and there, it isn't a house [​IMG] If you do use spray insulation it will have to be covered by plywood or something else peckproof, same as if you used any other insulation material. In principle you might worry about fumes offgassed from it but in reality your coop OUGHT to be built well enough ventilated that after the stuff cures and is boarded over it won't be an issue. Do build sufficient ventilation, though, not b/c of this but because you will NEED it. Shed or playhouse plans will have to have (much!) more ventilation added, not a big deal to do.

    Good luck, have fun,

    Pat​
     

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