Roost placement

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by mi2bugz, Oct 23, 2013.

  1. mi2bugz

    mi2bugz Chillin' With My Peeps

    Sep 8, 2013
    Waxahachie, tx
    How high up should the roost be off of the floor? I think I read nesting boxes 18" off floor so I was going to do a roosting bar at 24" and another ar 36".

    My next roost question deals with ventilation and roost placement. I have an 8 foot pitched roof so I was going to put 2 year round vents in at about 6.5 feet and then make 2 "doors" to open during the hot Texas summer at roost level. The doors would be able to open/close and be screened with hardware cloth. Is it ok to have a vent at roost level? What about a year round vent about 2 feet above nesting that ok also?

    All other sides will also have year round ventilation at 5' and I know I need at least 1 sq ft ventilation per bird and know not to make the vents directly opposite from each other.

    Thanks for any and all tips.

    ~ Nicole
  2. HEChicken

    HEChicken Overrun With Chickens

    Aug 12, 2009
    BuCo, KS
    My Coop
    I started with a ladder styler roost at 2', 4', & 6' levels. Aside from the fact that all the birds wanted on the 6' high roost so there was lots of bickering at night, I started having issues with bumblefoot from them jumping down from so high in the morning. I changed the roost to one where there are 4 roosting poles parallel to one another, all at 3' off the coop floor (less when the DLM is getting high), and that is working much better for me.
  3. mi2bugz

    mi2bugz Chillin' With My Peeps

    Sep 8, 2013
    Waxahachie, tx
    Great points to consider! I appreciate it.
  4. Hokum Coco

    Hokum Coco Overrun With Chickens

    Dec 6, 2012
    New Brunswick,Canada
    Here is a brief look at my set up. Hope you find some points that you may find useful.

    My Coop is a salvaged 4x8 metal shed here are a few tips and a quick look at my set up.
    My floor are planks with a layer of tin for rodent proofing. On top of the tin I have a piece of vinyl flooring cut one foot longer than the length and width of my coop (roughly). Six inches squares are cut out of the 4 corners of the vinyl flooring. This allows the friction fitted flooring to travel up the walls six inches around the perimeter of my 4x8 salvaged metal coop. Shovel out the heavy stuff into a wheel barrow. Pop out the vinyl flooring hose it off pop it back in.
    Easy Peasy!

    I have been around the sun 63 times.

    It is not my first "Rodeo!"

    Nobody "I know" heats a chicken coop.

    Healthy "cold hearty" chickens die from heat not cold.

    I live in Canada last year was subject to -40º (C or F take your pick) no light or heat in coop NO PROBLEMS. You have to feed heavier during cold snaps with extra corn I find.

    Chickens have been raised on this continent for over a hundred years without heat.

    If you feel you must supply heat to your chickens I suggest keeping your chickens in the house that way you can huddle with your birds when the hydro goes out.

    Chickens will die from cold if not given the chance to acclimatize. Hydro is more apt to go out in an ice storm or blizzard when subject to below 0º temperatures in my opinion.

    How would you supply heat then to your un-acclimatized birds ???

    Diary of last winter cold snap check out the link:

    For along time I used heater tape around a bucket with chicken watering nipples. It worked excellent. However me being me I neglected to change the water as often as I should.

    Last year I switched to white rubber contains the wife found somewhere. The freeze solid every night but the ice just pops out of them in the morning and I replenish them with fresh warm water. They have black ones at the feed store that are similar but large than mine.

    The chickens congregate around them like people having their morning coffee. The only draw back is my yard is pepper with small ice bergs the size of the buckets.

    April looks after that however..

    I have used all types of litter for coops.

    I have not tried sand (sand gets good reviews on this site).

    Of all the things I tried to date wood pellets have been the best. (I tried wood pellets as a last resort when pine shavings were not available.) They are super absorbent and swell up and eventually turn to saw dust. The droppings just seem to vanish and turn to dust when it comes in contact with wood pellets .

    Replace my litter and clean my coop every October after I harvest my garden.

    Works for me in my deep litter method.

    I do add to pellets from time to time.

    I have anywhere from 10 to 15 birds housed in my 4x8 coop.

    Through the winter months the pellets froze harder than concrete with -40º temperatures. The poop froze before it could be absorbed by the pellets and there was like a crusty layer of poop in certain areas where they collectively took aim (no smell, messy feet or flies @ -40º). Come April things started to look after themselves.

    POOP BOARDS are the "BEST" addition yet. Handles well over ½ of the poop in my set up keeps ammonia smell in check 3½" below roost excellent for catching eggs laid through the night. I recently friction fit a piece of vinyl flooring over my poop makes clean up even easier; Pop out; Scrap; Hose; Pop in.

    In my nest boxes I fold a feed bag to fit (nest boxes are 1 ft³). When a bag gets soiled; fold a new one; pop out the soiled; pop in the new.

    Easy peasy!.

    Chicken coop is salvaged 4x8 metal shed.




    I house an assortment of birds in this baby barn (¼ inch veneer plywood between birds and elements) no heat no light no problems.
  5. mi2bugz

    mi2bugz Chillin' With My Peeps

    Sep 8, 2013
    Waxahachie, tx
    Thank you for the suggestions!

    How far apart should the roost boards be? I know to stagger the height but should the roost at 24 inches be spaced 6" or 12" in front of the board at 36"? And how far from the wall?
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2013
  6. Ridgerunner

    Ridgerunner True BYC Addict

    Feb 2, 2009
    Northwest Arkansas
    I suggest you put the roosts as low as you reasonably can yet have them higher than anything you don’t want them to roost on. Chickens like to roost on the highest thing they can get to. You don’t want that to be your nests because they poop a lot at night and who wants poopy eggs. So put them about 12” above the tops of your nests. That’s as low as you reasonably can.

    Keep the roosts about 12” apart horizontally and also vertically if you are going to stagger the height. Also keep them about 12” off the wall.

    In Texas cold is not going to be a problem. Heat can kill them though. That is your real enemy. In the Texas summer heat you need openings at or even below roost level. Don’t be shy about giving them a lot of openings high and low.
  7. mi2bugz

    mi2bugz Chillin' With My Peeps

    Sep 8, 2013
    Waxahachie, tx
    Thank you so much. Great info and will definitely use it.

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