Rooster aggression and hen health

[muddyfeet]

Ok, it’s a long story. I am seeking how to cull this rooster, because I’ve never had to do it.

Started 5 years ago with a flock of 4 hens of different breeds, each about 2 years old when I got them. All but one (New Jersey Giant) died last year, which is amazing...bunch of seven year old chickens and one still alive. We even moved them 72 miles, built them a bigger home, and everything was fine.

2 years ago (at the bigger place) I raised 8 more hens from chicks. 3 White Leghorns and 5 Aquila hens. Here’s where the trouble starts, but rooster’s not here yet. After introduction (gradual) of the new birds as young adults year before last, and after the last old hen died, I had 9 hens, no rooster. But there was feather picking and bullying and egg laying decreased and I constantly had a hen in solitary and one in hospital. Important note about the Aquilas...their eggs were HUGE. Sometimes like turkey eggs. Their shells were fragile. One of them laid a shell-less egg in my hand.

Enter the rooster chick, who came as a pullet, about 8 weeks according to original owner, a city chicken owner who didn’t know she had a rooster until the crowing started...she had gotten him about 3 weeks earlier from someone else. Anyway...raised him separately, quarantined, never was handle-able. He’s healthy. So I let him get a bit bigger and put him in with the hens after a side-by-side introduction last summer. Things seemed fine. But, during the summer I lost one Leghorn to heat stroke (she got herself stuck in a nest box on a 100 degree day). Then the Aquila’s started dropping: one from peritonitis, two from no discernible reason on necropsy, and the remaining birds are alive but had vent gleet, which I’ve treated. 3 of 5 Aquila’s down, 2 with gleet, 2 leghorns left (perfectly healthy) and one old New Jersey Giant, and the rooster has turned very, very aggressive.

Rooster breed: Polish Cross, and now that I’ve surfed the net, his other coloring really looks like one of the game cocks. That may be the problem.

Hens: the Aquila that laid the huge eggs is gone. The remaining Aquila that’s laying seems healthy now. The remaining Aquila that’s not laying was getting beat up on because she decided to molt in winter so I kept her apart. Now she has feathers. Re-introduced her. It is not going well for her.

I know he now does not have enough hens. I don’t have a means to house him separately, and I don’t have access to an instant supply of hens. He’s beating up on the Aquila that molted...is he possibly trying to cull her?

I am suspicious, given the death rate of the Aquilas and the fact that they had questionable eggs and contracted gleet that they were not a robust stock to start with. The leghorns that came with them (were in the same tank in the feed store) are just fine, so is the NJ Giant, eggs are fine, strong, normal eggs. So maybe he knows something I don’t and she’s just faulty.

But the fact is, he doesn’t have enough birds, I don’t have enough resources, and he’s aggressive. So I suspect re-homing is not an option. The internet is short on information how to catch a bird that wants to kill you. And I’m considering culling the last two Aquilas just because.

My discrete questions:
1) Is it possible to get a “bad batch” of chicks from a feed store? I thought there were rules about sourcing, but ?
2) How do I catch a rooster to cull? Can I just grab him off a perch when he’s sleeping? I don’t want to get hurt.
3) Is there a bloodless way to cull a bird? Or to do it without tearing his head off? I’ve seen some internet stuff that breaks my heart.

 

[azygous]

Yes, you can easily catch an aggressive roo by going into the coop after they've roosted and throw a towel over him and wrap him up, making him easy to handle.

Here's a link to instructions on how to humanely cull a rooster without any gore or head separation.https://the-chicken-chick.com/how-to-humanely-euthanize-chicken-by-dr/ I would keep him wrapped in the towel as you follow the steps to achieve cervical dislocation. Death is instantaneous.

You are wise to consider the welfare of your hens and also yourself in this decision. You have no cause to feel any guilt. It's a legitimate solution.

 

[mandelyn]

1) Is it possible to get a “bad batch” of chicks from a feed store? I thought there were rules about sourcing, but ? Rules are that they need to be sourced through a NPIP/tested hatchery, which doesn't guarantee anything about their overall vigor or genetic health.

2) How do I catch a rooster to cull? Can I just grab him off a perch when he’s sleeping? I don’t want to get hurt. Wear long sleeves and gloves, snatch him at night when it's easiest. Put him in a small cage so that he can't jump around a lot when you go back for him.

3) Is there a bloodless way to cull a bird? Or to do it without tearing his head off? I’ve seen some internet stuff that breaks my heart. Either Co2 or the "broomstick" method. There should be info on both methods online.

 

[azygous]

Feed stores usually order chicks from a hatchery. Hatcheries often contract with individual breeders for hatching eggs. There is always a possibility of getting a batch of substandard chicks and even occasionally, contamination with bacteria happens. But for the most part, chicks from feed stores should be okay as long as they've been properly cared for after receiving the shipment.

 

[CluckNDoodle]

1. In short, yes, you can get a bad batch. My longer explanation, based on my personal experience but certainly not everyone's...When I initially started keeping chickens I got some feed store chicks. Two Buff Orpingtons and an Easter Egger. The two Buff Orpingtons ended up being mislabeled and were actually two White Leghorns. One Leghorn had a heart attack within her first year, the only chicken I've ever lost that way, and the other is still fine. The Easter Egger was a rescue because she had genetic issues and her toes were so crooked that she was struggling to walk and couldn't compete with the other chicks in the bin. We taped her feet and mostly straightened the toes with the exception of one wonky toe. I still have her to this day but even though she gets the same food and free range time as the rest of my flock she always has pale yolks, in her case I think it's related to her genetic issues and she's unable to uptake some vitamin that she needs but not enough of an issue for her to live an otherwise happy life. So, out of 3 feed store chicks, I have 1 that was without issue and the rest of my flock is happy and healthy from local breeders and primarily hatched by me. I now hatch 100% of my chickens myself.

2. I think others already answered this question well, I would go for for nighttime capture as well. Be sure to grab those legs so he can't scratch you!

3. The broomstick method seems to be the favorite, less messy way to cull but I'll be honest, I like to do a clean cut. It was soooo hard for me to do this but because there is still movement when they have passed, I like to know without a doubt that it's just the muscles twitching. The one time I tried the clean method, I panicked because I wanted to make sure it wasn't suffering and ended up pulling the head off the rest of the way...bare handed. I'm sorry for the graphic description but it's better to know beforehand.

 

[Folly's place]

I'll add that cervical dislocation by hand is easy with hens, and not easy at all with roosters. Use that broomstick, or a sharp knife, not the 'by hand' method. A strong man could do it, but not me...
Mary

 

[aart]

Cervical Dislocation is shown in this video at about 1:00,

Click the 'Watch this video on YouTube'

it's the only CD video I've found that doesn't remove the head.

*Notice the slight divot in the ground under the stick and neck, this will keep the bird from being choked.

*Notice that she slowly stretches out the neck and legs before giving the short sharp jerk that breaks the neck close to the skull, this is key to success IMO.

I've found this technique to be very effective.

 

[muddyfeet]

Yes, you can easily catch an aggressive roo by going into the coop after they've roosted and throw a towel over him and wrap him up, making him easy to handle.

Here's a link to instructions on how to humanely cull a rooster without any gore or head separation.https://the-chicken-chick.com/how-to-humanely-euthanize-chicken-by-dr/ I would keep him wrapped in the towel as you follow the steps to achieve cervical dislocation. Death is instantaneous.

You are wise to consider the welfare of your hens and also yourself in this decision. You have no cause to feel any guilt. It's a legitimate solution.

Thank you for that. It was hard, but still way better than anything else I saw. We’ll increase our flock again and try with a carefully selected breed of rooster next rather than a chick nobody wanted.

 

[muddyfeet]

Yes, you can easily catch an aggressive roo by going into the coop after they've roosted and throw a towel over him and wrap him up, making him easy to handle.

Here's a link to instructions on how to humanely cull a rooster without any gore or head separation.https://the-chicken-chick.com/how-to-humanely-euthanize-chicken-by-dr/ I would keep him wrapped in the towel as you follow the steps to achieve cervical dislocation. Death is instantaneous.

You are wise to consider the welfare of your hens and also yourself in this decision. You have no cause to feel any guilt. It's a legitimate solution.

I'll add that cervical dislocation by hand is easy with hens, and not easy at all with roosters. Use that broomstick, or a sharp knife, not the 'by hand' method. A strong man could do it, but not me...
Mary

My husband did. I wasn’t sure I had the muscle.

 

[Mrs. K]

The first one is hard. It is never easy, but you become more confident that you can do it.

Personally, I don't treat birds. I cull anything that is not in good health. Only had to do it one time, but would again. Secondly, many people on here do talk about very long lived birds. I think some birds can live for a long time, but a lot don't live much beyond 3 years. If most of your flock is living 3 years, I think you are doing fine. Anything longer than 3 years is bonus.

I have had hatchery birds, and birds from a higher class establishment. They both lay eggs. I have had older hatchery birds, and younger birds just die of natural causes. It happens.

I hope you culled the sick birds too, and I hope that fresh chicks help in the spring.

Mrs K