Rooster tries to attack husband

Deb T

Songster
Dec 5, 2016
212
135
136
Whitesboro Tx
My Coop
My Coop
My roo attacks my husband by running at him and pecking at his legs... Like he is trying to bite him. My husband kicks him away when my roo does this but he keeps going after him. He hasn't done it to me... but the past couple of weeks he ran at me flapping his wings and stopped and backed off quickly. I picked him up and held him upside down by his feet for about 5 minutes then turned him right side up and held him about 15 minutes. Then I turned him on his back and inspected his feet his wings and his face to make sure there wasn't a reason for his behavior. I have done this at least 3 or 4 times now. Nothing physically is wrong... He is just being mean. I also instructed my husband to handle him in this same manner. Is there some way to handle this behavior better or am I handling it wright?
 
Beekissed posted this, and I've been using it for years. It works.

I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.
 
He's trying to dominate you, happens a lot. Kicking will often escalate the behavior, and some say holding works. I personally wouldn't bother once it reaches that stage. It can be a hard thing to fix.

Raising young roosters to keep their fear and distance from you works better as the bird doesn't view you as part of the flock. I haven't had a single aggressive rooster since I stopped handling them when young.

You can research the matter on this site. My advice is to make him keep his distance and see if it works. I would use a fishing net to block him, scoop him up, and pen him up.

Be careful holding him upside down too long as they can have troubles breathing sometimes.
 
Beekissed article is excellent, but not all aggressive roosters are smart enough to reform, and cockerels that never need to be reformed are the best ones to keep!
I don't hand feed or make pets out of my cockerels; they are expected to get out of my way, and not have any bad thought aimed at me. I will try to correct a bird, maybe twice, but after that he's headed for 'freezer camp'.
Good boys are wonderful, but the others are just extra stress for you and the flock.
Having children, or other visitors, raises the need to have only polite roosters to the max.
Mary
 
Thank you. I will isolate him in a pen like you said but should this only be done when we are tending to the chickens or a permanent thing?
That's up to you. For training him to keep his distance I would pen him every time he came forward. Than I would release him later to see if he moves off. Stand square at him, never give him your back, even your side can be seen as a sign of submission.

He will either get it quickly, or if he's dumb, it will just slow him down. Out of 2 aggressive roosters I've dealt with, one was fixed after a month, the other was fixed when he lost his head. Good luck.
 
I will have to try harder with my dominate roo, he is only aggressive with me, not the kids, or the gals. I have been putting him in lockdown when he gets to bad, and he as well as the flock does not like the fish net. I also run him out of the feed and stand between him and the food letting the girls have at it. I have other roos but only put one over the girls at a time. This guy is currently in lockdown,,,
 
Beekissed article is excellent, but not all aggressive roosters are smart enough to reform, and cockerels that never need to be reformed are the best ones to keep!
I don't hand feed or make pets out of my cockerels; they are expected to get out of my way, and not have any bad thought aimed at me. I will try to correct a bird, maybe twice, but after that he's headed for 'freezer camp'.
Good boys are wonderful, but the others are just extra stress for you and the flock.
Having children, or other visitors, raises the need to have only polite roosters to the max.
Mary
I agree, 100%. Since I have stopped handling my cockerels and moving about like I own the place... oh, wait - I DO own the place! Since I have started from the moment I know they are cockerels making them get out of my way, walking through them, not backing up if one does feel the need to try to challenge me, I have not had to try to "reform" a rooster.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom