Smelly slimy poop

Discussion in 'Emergencies / Diseases / Injuries and Cures' started by sunket77, Jun 16, 2009.

  1. sunket77

    sunket77 Songster

    May 21, 2009
    Texas Hill Country!
    My 7 week old chicks have smelly slimy brown poop, should I get them some medicated feed?
  2. Glenda L Heywood

    Glenda L Heywood Songster

    Apr 11, 2009
    it won't cure them of what is wrong
    but give it a try

    sounds like some or one of the following

    You will have to read and study the information I am providing and see if any thing is vitale here

    generally the rusty diarrhea is like the brown diarrhea given here

    this info is on brown diarrhea and some help from a friend of mine

    (1 did you ever worm them?
    (2 do any of them not eat or drink yet?

    (3 do you see any signs of blood in the manure?
    can be slightly if first day
    most times they only drink not eat

    (4 for coccidiosis I like amproylium best generally corid
    but most feed stores don't stock it
    so she mentions sulmet

    Nathalie Ross"

    (1 coccidiosis I think it might be helpful for you to know that coccidia are
    very VERY hard to trace in a fecal. When I worked as a vet tech, it
    was common procedure to go ahead and treat with a combination
    antibiotic/antiprotazoan medication like Sulfa products (Sulmet being the most
    common) based on symptom diagnosis rather than physical evidence of the
    oocysts. This is less true of other parasites like roundworms and such,
    but still true. Often vets recommend a routine worming program to kill
    worms not found. Worms aren't always shed into the fecal matter, nor
    are their eggs, but that doesn't mean they aren't up there chowing down
    on your birds' food in the gut and leaving scars which make it harder
    for the birds to digest feed in the future.

    (2 worms
    So, think about a twice a year worming program. My personal program is
    to worm in the fall with Ivermectin, in the spring with either
    Ivermectin or another BROAD spectrum medication like tramisol or worm-ex.
    Note: I didn't mention piperazine. Piperazine is a one-worm wormer -
    rounds only. You'll want to use it for your very first worming to decrease
    the parasite loads (which are undetectable unless they're really very
    heavy) to prevent the possibility of the bird going into anaphylactic
    shock or being blocked. These two last dreadful things can happen if
    there are parasites up there you don't know about, and you use a
    super-wormer (like the 2 mentioned above) which kill everything all at once. So
    do piperazine the first time, or with new birds with unknown histories,
    then use the super-wormers from then on.

    (3 gut bacteria
    At 7 weeks, the babies are still in the
    process of getting their gut bacteria in order. See, they're born
    without any bacteria at all in their gut. So they eat at day 2, and put
    food in there as a food source for themselves but also for bacteria.
    Basically, it's first-come-first-serve for bacteria. If the bad ones get
    there first, they take over and your birds get ill. IF there are some
    good but mostly bad, the same thing happens. If you give your birds
    probiotics (substances containing live beneficial bacteria) your GOOD
    bacteria will have the advantage. Those good bacteria crowd out the bad,
    make it impossible for the bad bacteria to live in anything but minimal
    numbers, and thus help your birds to stay healthy. So I always
    recommend giving probiotics weekly from week 2 til point of lay. Then I move
    to once a month or as needed. You can use live-culture yogurt

    teaspoon per 8 newly hatched, moving up to 1 teaspoon per point of lay
    bantam, 1 tablespoon per point of lay large fowl - no more please). You can
    also use powdered livestock probiotics (Probios dispersable powder
    being my absolute favorite - it's the choice of exotic bird breeders, and I
    also have hookbills).

    Or, you can go to the human health food store
    and pick up a human supplement like "acidophilus" (Lactobacilus
    acidophilus), or a combination of acidophilus and B. bifidum sold to combat
    yeast infections. The latter is a particular useful thing for a poultry
    hobbiest to have. The addition of b. bifidum helps combat thrush.
    Thrush is essentially a yeast infection that is common to birds because of
    the way their crops store feed in wet conditions. Things tend to get
    fungus and yeast there, and thus the yeast infection. That infection
    goes throughout the bird's system and is really a mess, so that
    bifidum/acidophilus mix is the best. Try to find a non-dairy liquid, and you'll
    have the ultimate probiotic.

    So, there are some options. I'd tend towards those.
    Also, if you're
    prescribed antibiotics for your birds' infection, you'll want to give
    PRObiotics daily during treatment. Antibiotics are unfortunately going
    to kill the good bacteria which are having such a difficult time getting
    established in y our babies as it is. The antibiotics will possibly do
    as much harm as good, so combat that bad effect with probiotics. Try
    giving them daily for about 3 days after the last batch of medicine.

    (4 E.Coli
    In case your babies are said to have an infection of E. coli (most
    likely case) then you can try putting some vitamin E in their feed.

    ( GLH- advises using the 1000 mg capsules cut end off and squeeze into wet mash
    and putting in a wet mash for them to eat
    ( use one capsule Vit Eper bird treating and do this twice a day for a week
    also use 1 selinium tablet crushed and put in wet mash
    Vitamin E helps fix E. coli overpopulations. You know what else helps fight
    E. coli? Guess

    b. bifidum. It secrets a substance that E. coli just
    can't stand. See where this is going?

    Nathalie Ross, Houston, TX

    email me with any questions
  3. sunket77

    sunket77 Songster

    May 21, 2009
    Texas Hill Country!
    WOW! thanks so much for all that info!

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