Thick shelled and dark colored eggs????

Discussion in 'Incubating & Hatching Eggs' started by RWise, Jan 31, 2013.

  1. RWise

    RWise Chillin' With My Peeps

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    I am getting ready to set another batch of eggs from my girls.
    The ones I have questions on are FBCM and an EE.

    The FBCM eggs are very dark and thick shelled, I cannot see anything when I candle them. I can tell which end should be up in the turner, by the shape of them. For those that have sat FBCM before, I have read that they take an extra day or two to hatch, is this correct? If so should I give them a day head start?

    My EE lays a very large egg (sometimes jumbo++ depends on her diet) the shell is olive (most of the time) and I cannot see anything when candled. I also cannot tell from the shape (both ends look alike very uniform) which end the air pocket is in. My thought is to set them in a pan of luck warm water 1 at a time, (float test) long enuf to mark the air pocket, get them out and pat them dry (not rub). I dont want them in the water any longer than it takes to find the air sack and mark it on the egg (pencil).
    Anyone see a problem with this?
     
  2. Ridgerunner

    Ridgerunner Chicken Obsessed

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    I’ve got some green eggs in the incubator right now that I can’t see a thing in. I’ll just trust they’re OK, but do a bit better job than normal on the sniff test.

    I’ve never hatched FCBM eggs so I don’t have any experience with them. Personally I’d just put them in with the others and get that experience that way instead of doing something a bit different to start with. There are several things that can influence if an egg hatches early or late. Heredity and relative egg size are a couple of those. In theory a bantam egg should hatch before a regular sized egg. I’ve seen a recommendation for commercial hatcheries that they should select their breeding flock from eggs that hatch about on time, especially not late hatchers, so the hatch doesn’t drag out so long.

    Do what you wish, but I’d start them all at the same time unless the person you got that specific strain from is the one that told you they are late hatchers.

    I’ve had a few eggs where it’s hard to tell which is the pointy end but I’ve always guessed and done OK. Good luck on being able to tell by that float test. I don’t see a huge problem with what you propose. Instead of patting them dry I’d probably lay them on a towel or a few layers of paper towels and let them air dry. I really don’t know how well that bloom comes off but I’d do as little as I could as far as rubbing.

    Hatcheries wash their eggs but then they put a coating of something back on them, so your situation is not equivalent. Some members of this forum wash them before incubation. I don’t. If an egg is dirty enough to need washing, I don’t put it in the incubator to start with.

    The problem you are trying to avoid is bacteria getting inside the egg. If bacteria is not present to start with, it can’t get inside. What I’d suggest is do a real good job of sanitizing your incubator to start with. Make sure your hands are very clean anytime you handle those eggs. Try to keep the bacteria away. And do a regular sniff test while they are incubating to try to detect any odors early. I think you’ll be OK doing this, but remember I don’t have any experience doing this. I’m just giving my opinion.

    I trust you have cracked some of those extra large eggs and that is not a sign they are double yolked.
     
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  3. Allicoop

    Allicoop Out Of The Brooder

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    Just a thought, I don't have a auto turner in my incubator so it didn't matter about which end contained the air cell.they were all placed on there sides. I'm not sure this would help you though....
     
  4. Ridgerunner

    Ridgerunner Chicken Obsessed

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    I love it. So simple.

    I won't turn them by hand. My schedule is not regular enough to allow it. And I really don't think you'll have a problem doing what you are talking about. But a possible option is to take a tray or two out of your turner if you can and turn these by hand. Not wash them at all.

    I wouldn't be surprised if the great people on this forum come up with another option for you.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2013
  5. RWise

    RWise Chillin' With My Peeps

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    I have sat the EEs eggs before, and I think I got some of them upside down in the turner, and her eggs would be the only ones to get a float test. I like the air dry idea.

    The FBCM has recently started laying again, I have only read what others have said about hatching them. I also have a lead on some eggs to hatch at $10 a dozen local to me, but after his hatch (4 or 7) he is uncertain if he wants to sale them for hatching, I told him I want some anyway.

    OK keep things clean, when the bator was put up I cleaned it good, and re-cleaned it before I lit it up this time, temp is about where It is needed.

    I am going to make some trays for the turner, cant this time as I have not the funds to do it, but I want it to hold the eggs on their side. I know this will cost space and it will hold less eggs, but I hope to increase hatch rate. (and not have to worry with the air sack) I can get tied up and not be here to do the turning,,,,
    I have also seen posts where they turn the whole bator, I picked mine up and got a bit off level, and water everywhere,,,,

    Thanx for the input!!!
     
  6. Chickengirl1304

    Chickengirl1304 Chillin' With My Peeps

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    I wouldn't wash them. Just put then on their sides until day 3-4 and you should be able to see the airspace by then
     
  7. Ridgerunner

    Ridgerunner Chicken Obsessed

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    Have you tried this? I recently candled at 7 days and could see absolutely nothing in some of my green eggs.
     
  8. Chickengirl1304

    Chickengirl1304 Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Not with green eggs but with some black copper marans it worked though.
     
  9. RWise

    RWise Chillin' With My Peeps

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    I have no planes to wash them, just place them into luck warm water long enuf to find the air pocket, remove them mark the air cell end with a pencel, and let them air dry on a paper towel. This would be only for the green/olive eggs as her eggs I cannot tell where the air cell is, both ends look the same. I am thinking of using distilled water for this and not my poison city tap water!
     
  10. RWise

    RWise Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Dec 25, 2012
    Oakhurst Oklahoma
    OK eggs went into the bator (1602n with fan and turner) the 7th, floating the eggs from the EEer, I think I can guess them next time as I can feel a difference in the weight from end to end on most. I guessed about 95% correct, all eggs were numbered, weighed in and documented. I hated doing the float test but I think I learned from it, 2 of her eggs sank with no end up at all. (maybe duds?)(they were also some of her most recent eggs) I am trying a dry hatch this goround. Temp is stable 1.5* between high low temps, and half a degree lower than last batch as they were early, humidity with no water at all was 24% after 12 hours, I added a shot glass of water next to the turner motor and humidity came up to 31%. This morning I changed that out for a larger glass to try to get to 40% humidity. This is the second use of this bator, both times it was set up and ran for several days to stabilize. I have a high power led light on its way to candle with, and plan to candle and weigh all eggs on day 10.

    The 2 eggs that sank, should I get rid of those?
    Is 1.5* between high temp and low temp good or bad?
    IF the wafer in this new hovebator needs to be replaced, has anyone had one replaced on warenty?
    Is there a percentage of weight the eggs should loose in 10 days?
    Edit: Anyone else have concerns over ammonia being added to tap water and hatching eggs?
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2013

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