See my rough drawing on your picture in my post before last. It's not exact, as you can leave some at the sides for structural support and make decisions looking at the actual surface in real life.
I'll repost it...
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I noticed in your most recent post with pictures that the one showing that wall facing the run from the inside, shows a bow
/ buckle about two slats down from the top.
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We dealt with a fair bit of this on our discounted broken dog house (sorry I haven't made that article yet)... It is fixable. Mainly, the perpendicular tack strip that supports the middle of the panel has each slat attached with little nails. They really should have beefed that part of the design up.
Then each of those slats slide into each other with a tongue and groove design.
If you wanted to take advantage of the flaw, you could saw that board and carefully remove it from the panel. If you did, it would be essential to add additional vertical support to the remaining panel, preferably with something lightweight, like maybe 2x2's. And screw into that from the outside. I only say lightweight because I don't know where the weight of the support post would sit. If it can sit firmly on a sturdy part of the floor you may be able to use a 2x4's. But you don't want it to drag on those slats that make the panel over time, so use your judgement.
The tarp looks really nice! I like how clear that is, will be great for sunlight!
Yes, eliminating drafts is still important. I know it gets confusing. Basically, any air movement at the same level as the birds on the roost is a problem. Drafts ruffle those down parkas which prevents them from keeping warm.
When it's cold out they can poof their feathers out and stay cozy down to the minus temps.
When any air movement is only high above their heads, that doesn't interfere with their poofing ability and keeps the moisture flowing out of the coop. Humid conditions allow frostbite to occur on exposed skin like combs, wattles, and toes. But a dry coop avoids that problem.
Hope that helps!
