Ummm...anybody good at dog training?

Discussion in 'Other Pets & Livestock' started by Chicky Joy, Jan 1, 2009.

  1. Chicky Joy

    Chicky Joy Songster

    Jun 22, 2008
    We have an 11 week old Jack Russell Terrier. She's making some progress in terms of basic trainng but I'm afraid of getting in over my head and having a dog that's not properly trained. I especially want this dog to be well-trained because of the tendencies of this breed.

    Anyone have tips for basic training?

    What about tips for being the "pack leader?"

    Any help would be great!

  2. chickiebaby

    chickiebaby Songster

    Jan 2, 2008
    western mass
    Jack Russell = very very smart so, if you really havent ever done this before, I would recommend a class. Just a basic puppy training class, while the dog's still young. Most start btw 12-16 wks, so you are right on target. Living with an untrained terrier would be really rotten for all concerned esp the dog.

    Find someplace that trains through love and treats and attention, never through fear - esp important with a dog that could become snappy, like yours.

    You'll be glad you spent the time - so glad you are thinking about this. The world is full of dogs that get dumped by owners who never gave them what they needed to be great pets.

    Have fun!
  3. Dar

    Dar Crowing

    Jul 31, 2008
    jaime the dog trainer is a ..well trainer i great advice from her
  4. Chicky Joy

    Chicky Joy Songster

    Jun 22, 2008
    Quote:I'd like to do a class but I live on an island and there isn't one offered here. That's why I need extra help.
  5. Patricia McConnell is a must, must, must read.

    Forget about the pack leader stuff you have read until you read her insight. As far as "the guy how talks quietly to dogs", read his stuff with a grain of salt. Some of it is ok and the rest is impractical.

    It sound you have started a formal training process. That's great and vital. As you and Chickiebaby mentioned, you don't want an untrained terrier. Remember that everything you do with or around the dog is training. It doesn't start or begin at a particular time of the day. They are always watching and learning from you. So, be consistent and treat the dog as you expect the puppy to behave when it’s an adult dog.

    Oh, and have fun [​IMG]


  6. hensdeliverthegoods

    hensdeliverthegoods Songster

    Dec 18, 2007
    Catawba County, NC
    Quote:[​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    As a former dog trainer and vet tech, I salute you. Starting training so young and recognizing that your JRT needs to be well-trained is more than half the battle. If I can be of any help, please let me know! [​IMG]
  7. Chicky Joy

    Chicky Joy Songster

    Jun 22, 2008
    I've been trying to socialize her when possible. I sometimes take her to my in-laws where there are lots of people for her to be around and another dog. She has done allright. She will approach people in a friendly manner but she also spends a lot of time hiding behind me. She did quite well when my niece and nephew were petting her and feeding her treats. On the other hand she did snap at my SIL when I tried to hand her to her. In hindsight I think it was more my fault than the dog's but I was still not happy with that reaction. I like the fact that she has bonded strongly with me but I need her to be friendly as well.

    Currently we are making a lot of progress with the housebreaking and slightly less progress with sitting and general behavior like jumping and puppy-type biting. The biggest biting issue is that she often jumps and my face, in a playful manner but this is still bad. She doesn't seem to be phased when I discipline her for these bahaviors...what do I do?
  8. Widget

    Widget Songster

    Sep 30, 2008
    Limington, Maine
    The best advice I ever got from the trainer I went to with my collie is to limit training sessions to no more than 15 minutes a day. And to break it up throughout the day. For example. Teaching sit/stay? Great thing to do when feeding. Do a sit/stay and put the dish down. Gradually increase the time the dish is down before letting the dog eat. Same thing can be done at the front (or back) door. This makes things both interesting for the dog and gives real life practice for things that we do everyday. It seems to really help the highly intelligent breeds like yours. We never used treats in class except when first teaching down and then only a couple of times. What happens if you are out of treats and ask the dog to do something? Praise, on the other hand, was always used. Just enough to let the dogs know they did well but not enough to get them overly excited.
    The only 'command' the instructor never fooled around with was on the recall. Of all the traditional obedience commands this is probably the most important. So what if the dog doesn't sit straight. But a dog that won't come when called can get into a life threatening situation very quickly. And terriers are notoriously stubborn and are great at tuning out their owners when they find something more interesting to investigate:)
    Read all the training books you can get. The Monks of New Skete books are good as well as 'Mother Knows Best'. I don't think there is one right way to train so the more you learn the better off you should be. Some training tips will make sense and some you might find just plain crazy. Find what works for both you and your dog and that will be a good starting place.
  9. bwebb7

    bwebb7 Songster

    Aug 16, 2008
    Brooksville, Fl
    I am borrowing this from my mastiff folks but you know that your jrt thinks he's a Mastiff so here goes...
    this website is so much information

    if you can get a Ultimate puppy tool kit

    I took the puppy everywhere with me Petsmart, petco , the bank, anywhere there are people. (and they would let me in with her )

    btw - the socialization window closes around 16 weeks so it's easy to socialize him now, it will be harder in a month.

    drive him around in the car (gently), let him see, smell, hear all kinds of things, socialization is not just meeting people.

    visit friends who don't have dogs. have them wear stupid hats, snorkels, carry baseball bats, everything you can think of.

    have him meet all ages, all races, all sizes, all abilities, get someone to use a walker, a wheel chair, a golf cart, whatever you can find to expose him to is good.

    have friends come over, shoes at the door, hands washed.

    i carried drum into the bank, the hardware store, the dry cleaners. everyone wants to see a mastiff puppy ;-)

    be creative! millions of dogs die because they never learned the skills they need to live in human world. very few puppies die from parvo and none die if you are careful :)

    the dog park is a bad place, a very bad place. even after puppy is vaccinated. one bad incident with someone else's rude dog and you've got a dog aggressive puppy.

    puppy k is a good place, a very good place!!! sign him up for puppy k now.

    help him to learn to greet people politely. here's what i do:

    Teaching Your Dog To Greet People Politely

    One of the most common problems is that dogs lunge towards people. When that happens, we, embarrassed that our dogs are “out of control”, jerk the dog back and yell at the dog.

    Big mistake. Dogs don’t speak English and we can’t explain to them why we are correcting them and if your dog associates the correction with a person approaching instead of the lunging, you can create a human aggressive dog. This happens a lot more than people realize.

    “Uh oh!” Here comes a person, I’m going to get jerked and yelled at. I’m going to growl to warn the person to stay away so I don’t get jerked and yelled at.”

    And then of course, we are even more upset when the dog growls and jerk harder and the cycle escalates. (Even though we should know to never correct a dog who is growling because we always want to know when the dog is warning us so we don’t get bitten.)

    It is very simple to teach your dog to greet people politely. You will need accomplices because it is impossible to teach manners in real life, you need to set the dog up. Your accomplice can be a family member to start, although you will eventually need around 10 accomplices because dogs don’t generalize behaviors well and it takes about 10 people before the dog generalizes the behavior.

    The accomplice should be about 20’ away from the dog. If you can’t hold the dog, tether the dog. Tie the lead to a tree, slam it in a car door, do whatever is convenient because if the dog pulls you forward, it’s going to take much longer to teach.

    Cue the dog to sit.

    The accomplice starts to walk towards the dog. You are a tree, which means no talking or moving, the dog will learn much better if you don’t interfere (scientifically proven).

    If the dog gets up, the accomplice dead stops and you wait. When the dog is giving you attention, or after about 30 seconds, get the dog’s attention by tapping the dog gently on the butt and cue the dog to sit again. This is the hardest time for humans who are a very verbal species, to be quiet, but it is the most important time for us to be quiet, except to get the dog’s attention if necessary and cueing the dog to sit.

    The accomplice starts forward again. If the dog gets up, the accomplice dead stops, etc.

    If the dog gets up 3 times, the accomplice turns and goes back to the “start” about 20’ away.

    When the accomplice is able to walk all the way to the dog while the dog remains sitting, have a party like there is no tomorrow! The accomplice should pet and praise the dog for at least 20 seconds. If the dog gets up, don’t worry about it at this time, however if the dog jumps, the accomplice must immediately turn away from the dog.

    Repeat with every family member and friend you can wheedle into helping. When the dog remains sitting, have your accomplice start talking as the accomplice walks towards the dog. This increases the distraction level and even if your dog was rock solid, your dog may get up when the accomplice starts talking.

    Talking is an added distraction and very likely to happen in real life, but you start teaching with a quiet accomplice because you teach in steps so the dog can be successful at each step. If you ask too much of the dog, the dog will fail and you never want to set your dog up for failure.

    Have the accomplice increase the talking and use a high squeaky voice to get the dog excited, but because you are teaching in steps, don’t add the

    high voice until the dog is rock solid sitting with a calm voice.

    The dog should be kept at home until the behavior is solid. Then the dog can go to the pet store or for walks. When a stranger approaches, politely ask the stranger to help you train your dog and to please stop if the dog gets up. Cue the dog to sit and have the stranger approach. I did this with a Mastiff puppy and everyone was very cooperative. In fact, he loved attention so much that eventually if he thought a person was coming towards him, he would automatically sit. If the person passed him by, he would look so disappointed LOL!
    Patience, consistency, teaching in steps and letting the dog figure out what the right behavior is are the keys to success!

    Best of luck!
    I will post other books to read too

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