What size post, what size bottom and top Boards for 6 foot tall run


9 Years
Nov 27, 2010
Northen Va
My dh, as you all have heard..is just not helping me..lol

Check out the photo below, I can't even get the wire off the dag on decorative picket fence..to put that up..lol

Anyhoo, someone suggested I do the walls of the run on the ground and then just lift up

Do u realize today the lightbulb..lmao went off in my head

Just lay it down ..can I use what is the smallest size for post

Do I really have to place the post in the ground?
Or once all 4 sides connected together and nailed to coop it should just stay..

I was thinking I could just lay 2 post on the ground, 12 feet from one another, then lay a board across the top, middle and bottom, nail it in

Make two of those and then raise up those two and connect the post to the coop

So that would be two walls running down the back of each corner of the coop

Then nail a board on the bottom , middle, and top

Then nail in the hardware cloth

Am I making any sense

So what size is the smallest corner post I can use? 2x4' 4x4..etc,trying to make a big box..lol

And the boards, what type? And what could be the smallest I could use?

What lengths do the boards come in at lowes and home depot? Then I can space the post according to this and not have to cut

I would ask my dh all this, but Iam mad at him right now..lol

He is home today, and I sure don't see him, laying the vinyl linernin my coops, or cutting and addingnthe extra vents, or putting up my security lights on my coops, or making the coop door, or install the flower box, or add my weathervanes..yep, all laying in garage

I can't beleive I have 2-5 months olds in my house still

Can u beleive this

Still not done..

Anybody want to come over and help me
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Do I really have to place the post in the ground?

If the run will be teeny tiny (like maybe 4x8 or not *much* bigger than that), you can just anchor it down by other means. If you have EXTREMELY difficult soil, like you're on solid rock shelf and *can't* dig postholes, it is possible to skip postholes for somewhat larger runs too IF you install excellent earth-anchors periodically along the fence, but I cannot really recommend it if you aren't *forced* into it.

You have to understand, a run fence catches a lot of wind and will tend to want to go elsewhere in a storm if it is not super well anchored; also predators are really quite a lot stronger than most people expect and you do not want a situation where they can simply pry up your run and slip under.

So I would urge you to use actual posts if at all possible.

That being the case, it is actually more work to build the run fence the way you're proposing (as separate standalone panels you tip up and join together, affixed to posts) than to do it the conventional way (sink posts, unroll wire, attach to posts, add horizontal members before or after attaching wire)

Do I understand that your run is going to be 12x12'? If so, I would suggest using an additional post in the middle of each side (or at least a vertical piece connected to the top and bottom horizontal elements, if you are really allergic to sinking extra postholes). The corners really should be properly-installed pressure-treated 4x4s or round cedar fenceposts at least 4" diameter. Sink the posts AT LEAST 2 1/2' into the ground, more is better especially if the fence will be taller than 4' or so (hardwarecloth catches a *lot* of wind resistance).

For the top rail -- and you're smart to want to use one, it'll be a much stronger fence -- I see no reason to use more than a 2x4 and it need not be pressure-treated. If you are going to have another one on or near the ground, I would suggest 2x6" or wider, and pressure-treated.

Remember to use appropriate hardware if you go with pressure-treated lumber -- preferably appropriately coated screws and VERY well-galvanized staples or nails, not the cheaply galvanized ones which will rust thru pretty fast.

Good luck, have fun,

Thank u

I had assumed with all sides up, that much wood, and wire
It would be super heavy then and it wouldn't move

So I wouldn't have to sink it

So what makes kennels then not blow away?

Thank u again

Kennels are calling my darn name again
The fastest way I've ever seen to get my hubby to do something he is dragging feet on, is to "hire" someone! Say, I just wanted to let you know, The run isnt done by now and I'm having
a hard time doing it, so I put a couple calls out to local contractors to come finish it up for me so the chickens can get out of the house!!

if he's anythign like MY husband; this gets an immediate "I'll do it now" reaction...
The worst part is my husband is a contractor...lmao
Thats why I have a hard time getting him to do things here..and I for one..almost understand, lol..almost

I swear, ya would think the cHickens in the foyer would have driven him mad by now

I mean he has nothing to do with them, but..my goish..I never thought he would last this long and not cave in

Time for some womanly power punishment,if he doesn't get his mojo going.. he will be lacking mojo..wink wink


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Being made of 2-3" mesh rather than hardwarecloth (hardwarecloth has significantly higher wind resistance); also usually over time the bottom rail of kennel panels gets kind of grown into the turf.

I *have* seen kennels blown awry though.

I mean, do what you want, I'm just warning you what I've seen happen with constructions similar to what you're proposing. At least get a couple of corkscrew earth anchors adn put one at each non-coop corner.

Oh I know your trying to help
And appreciate more then ever
I just thought how everyone has kennels..and thought I could build myself..lol, like panels..heheh

Connect together


Thank u Pat
And the kennels can blow away too

If you were going to do a really *small* run I'd say sure it's not a big issue. Or use earth anchors, theyre not that big a deal to install, you just screw them in with something long to use as a 'jack handle' so to speak.

Honestly though it is really not difficult to construct a proper fence with proper fenceposts, and IMO highly worthwhile. The only real advantage of separate panels would be if the ground prevented you from sinking posts, or if you were planning on moving fairly soon.

Good luck, have fun,

I have a small temp run that is 8' x 8' x4' tall. It is anchored to nothing. I did use pressure treated 2x4's laying flat along the bottom. I used 1" chicken wire and 2x2's for the rest of the frame. So I say go ahead and do it, just put a nice heavy PT 2x4 around the bottom. Best of luck to you!
My run is entirely above ground and is 8' X 24'. I used 3x4 PT landscape timbers which are heavy enough to keep it on the ground and sturdy. I used metal deck brackets to hold the timbers to each other with deck screws. It's very sturdy and strong. Granted I have a fairly dry flat area to lay it on and wouldn't recommend this for extremely sloped, marshy, or rocky ground. I built a bottom, middle and top rail for each 8 foot length of run and cut the height depending on the slight rise in the area so that it all looks the same height at the top. The height ranges from 6' to about 7' from end to end. There is a cross rail at the top every 8 feet to keep the long sides together. There are two feet of hardware cloth on the lowers walls and 4+ feet of 2'X4" welded wire on the upper portion of the walls. I put a 2' apron of hardware cloth around the whole bottom to prevent digging in and covered it with mulch all the way around. On top I put deer fencing (to keep flying predators out) and then old split rail fence rails salvaged from an old horse farm about 8' apart so it looks likes a pergola. Even with tarps on top for winter and several feet of snow and ice this winter it has held up very well. There is no chance it will tip over. No digging in posts or wire...yay! Although this plan definitely uses more lumber and therefore is more expensive than digging in posts and building from there it was worth it for me. I am the handy one in my family and DH doesn't do construction so I also have to figure out ways to make sturdy structures without killing myself and I really hate digging. I think your plan could work well if you use heavy enough timbers for weight and structure with strong joints such as deck joiners or something similiar. I don't think 2'X4's or smaller will work for the bottom in a non-dug in run of any size over 8 feet. As others have said that to me would be too light and in danger of collapse or blowing over without deep anchors to the ground. Best of luck with building your run.

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