What vitamins and electrolytes to give new chicks?

nine9d

Songster
8 Years
Sep 15, 2011
108
86
186
Beacon, N.Y.
Hi all, I am looking to be as prepared as I can for when I receive my new chicks in April. Many things can happen as we know, shipping stress, ill chicks, pasty butt, etc... I have read a lot of threads on these products below and would like to get some more input on the specifics.

Nutri-Drench
Poly-vi-sol without iron
Sav-A-Chick
Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV)

I've read things like, why used Poly-vi-sol when Nutri-Drench is formulated for chicks, to which I may agree with. Are these 2 products basically used for the same thing (or for that matter 4 products)? Some say Nutri-Drench causes diarrhea, don't use it for too long. How long are they supposed to be used with newly received chicks? Then I read that both sav-A-chick and ACV both help prevent pasty butt. Which stuff do you use, and why do you use it? Do you use any of them together?

Now I know nothing is foolproof here, but I am looking for who does what, with what, and why. Forgive me if I went off the rails, but any info is great info, thanks so much.
 
I've successfully raised several batches of shipped chicks without using any of these supplements, so I'm not sure that it makes much difference if you use them or not. That being said, if your shipped chicks are in poor condition upon arrival, your best bet is probably the Poultry Nutri-Drench because it is quickly absorbed and gives them a very fast nutritional boost.

One of the best ways to reduce shipping stress is to make sure chicks are not shipped during very cold or very hot temperatures. So, you need to be familiar not only with climate in your state, but also the states through which the chicks will be shipped. For me, this means avoiding shipments from November through March.

Rather that using additives in the water, I give chicks a small amount of mashed, scrambled eggs for the first several days, in addition to their regular chick feed. Eggs (especially eggs from free-range hens that have access to green vegetation and bugs) are high in protein, vitamins and minerals, so this essentially gives the chicks a boost like the water supplements do, but without the added artificial ingredients and preservatives.

Pasty butt tends to be more of a problem in brooders that are too warm, so be sure the brooder has a cool area in addition to a warm area so the chicks can select an area that is comfortable.
 
Thanks for the reply @song of joy I am going to look into some free-range eggs. I know there are so many opinions on many things. Does others have and information to lend to this topic. I am one that likes to be proactive in everything that I do, but also do realize that sometimes less is more in some cases.
 
I don't add anything to their water, unless some of them look 'dumpy' or unwell in any way. Shipping can go beautifully, or not, so it's a good idea to have something on hand, but don't go crazy with extras!
Mary
 
I don't add anything to their water, unless some of them look 'dumpy' or unwell in any way. Shipping can go beautifully, or not, so it's a good idea to have something on hand, but don't go crazy with extras!
Mary

Thanks for the response Folly. I just seem to be reading lots of information, and want to be prepared in the event of any issues.
 
Hi
I could write 4 hours on this subject it's truly a passion of mine. how to get baby chicks off to the best start.
first we need some science behind a recommendation.
On day 17 and 1/2 of incubation the nutrition available to the chick is so low it opens its mouth and starts to drink the amniotic fluid. When the chick hatches the yolk Sac is biologically reserved for nutrition for development of the GI tract and the myelination of the birds muscles. yet at hatcheries, we expect the birds to exist for up to 3 days on the nutrition of their yolk sac.
This they can do . so that is the science behind the arrival of your chicks from the Hatchery . they have used up for energy the nutrition which was supposed to jump start the development of their GI tract and thus the immune system . that is the science behind my recommendation .what do we now do to solve this problem?
First we need to jumpstart the GI tract . we need to get fast nutrition into the chick. as long as it's not getting proper nutrition through the GI tract, it's not getting proper nutrition to the immune system. here is where the poultry Nutridrench comes in. it does not need to be digested. it main lines directly into the bloodstream , measurable in minutes, all natural, with 99% utilization.
Remember, upon the chicks arrival ,this GI tract is already compromised nutritionally. it doesn't need to be fed anything except something which is extremely digestible with the lowest amount of indigestible ingredients as possible. Indigestible ingredients can pile up in the hindgut and form a nice breeding ground for harmful pathogens.
Hamlet protein in Findlay Ohio has created a wonderful chick starter supplement called HP avistart. it is extremely digestible and specially made to start off newborn chicks on the right track. they have a website and adding that to the chick feed per their instructions would be very beneficial.
Failing that, I would add one and a half teaspoons of poultry Nutri drench per quart water and keep it in their water for the first two weeks of life. the GI tract undergoes tremendous development the first 14 days of life and it is extremely important that the chick have all the nutrients it needs for both energy and that development during this. It will affect the chicks performance through the rest of its life. a chick that "looks back" nutritionally during this will have its production virtues affected negatively for the rest of its life.
In any case I would definitely have a small bottle of Nutri drench available when those chicks arrive. they need a dose to combat any travel stress that they have encountered.
Travel stress weakens the chick and thus its ability to uptake helps that you give it when it arrives. so give them the Nutri drench which main lines directly into the bloodstream and does not involve a compromised GI tract to try to get the help to the chick.
If using just the Nutri drench , here is the dosage for chicks:
For a newborn or newly arrived hatchery chick: one drop by mouth per chick . repeat every 8 to 10 hours, if necessary, until the chick is perky.
put one and a half teaspoons per quart water in their water for the first two weeks of life.
Best Regards,
Karen
 
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I have used Bovidr Labs NutriDrench and Nutridrop products on my collies and poultry for a decade-and-a-half with superb success I have never had a sick or a dead chicken or chick or any pasty butt or diarrhea when using poultry Nutri drench.
There is no need for any other supplement when using it. Just a high quality chick starter, the Drench water and ( after the chicks are 10 days old ), chick grit in a separate cup for them to eat as needed.
There is a good article on byc I wrote called "the science of feeding grit to poultry".
the basic upshot of it is that the grit is used to exercise the gizzard. the gizzard is a muscle and giving the chicks Grit,( the right size at the right age), will help the gizzard become stronger and larger . this means when the bird reaches production age, it will be either a better meat bird or it will lay to 20% more eggs. because the gizzard will help it process its food for better digestion .better digestion needs better nutrition. better nutrition means better meat and better eggs.
.
Best,
Karen
P.S. high quality chick starter does not mean it has to be organic .Cargill makes a great naturewise line that it's not organic and good chick feed. I actually raise my dual-purpose Heritage Sussex on naturewise meatbird. it's an excellent feed and is good for meat or Dual Purpose Heritage breeds from hatch through the rest of their life . so I never have to go ahead and switch them to another feed, even during laying.
 
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Excellent posts, Karen.

I second her: PND!!!!!! Be sure it's mixed fresh every day. I start out daily, and then gradually decrease the frequency, but they do get it for 2 weeks.

I also put sugar in the water, and if I have chicks that are not doing well, I might use home made electrolyte. I will not waste money on lytes that I can mix up in my kitchen for free.

In addition, I give my chicks a plug of sod from my untreated yard. This should be started in the first 2 weeks of life, while their antibodies received from their mother are still in their system. My chicks always have fresh sod available.

I choose not to use medicated feed, b/c my chicks get the immune building properties in the sod.

Scrambled egg makes a nice protein boost.

My chicks also get fermented feed, which is a great method of building a strong healthy gut which supports a healthy immune system.

Equally important is a nice roomy brooder: by the time the chicks are 2 - 3 weeks old, they should have 2 s.f. of open space per chick. And I use a MHP cave style heat system. No heat lamp for my chicks!!! They get natural day/night lighting, get to have a full night of un-interrupted sleep, and have the security of a nice warm dark snuggly place to curl up to sleep. No stressful bright light 24/7 with little resource to escape the heat. All of the benefits of MHP cave are designed to provide natural brooding, and stress reduction, which also helps to build a healthy immune system.
 
Thanks @3riverschick & @lazy gardener

I've been reading so much info and have been conflicted. Lazy has already responded to a couple of my other threads and I do feel as if I have a jump start here with a wealth of knowledge.

I am going to read that grit thread now. Thank you. Anymore info always welcome and appreciated!
 

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