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Why didn't they hatch??

Discussion in 'Incubating & Hatching Eggs' started by hippichick, Jul 7, 2008.

  1. hippichick

    hippichick Chillin' With My Peeps

    Apr 13, 2008
    Branch, La
    I set 42 eggs to incubate. D'uccles and Bantam Cochins, and a couple of Silkies. I candled twice, and was left with 25 eggs on day 18. They started hatching on day 19. I had 8 chicks hatch by day 20, then nothing. I candled a few of them on day 21, and they were fully formed, but dead. What would cause this?
    I am using a Hovabator 1588 forced air with turner. My temperature ran between 99.5 and 99.9, and humidity was 45-50 for the first 18 days, then upped humidity to 65-70 for last 3 days.
    Was my temp too low. Does anyone know if this would cause them to develop fully, and then fail to even pip? I seem to remember a GQF rep to tell me the temp should be 101.5 in the bator, which would make it 99.5 in the egg. I am wondering if I should up my temp.

    Thanks for any help

    Paula
     
  2. Alabama_boy

    Alabama_boy Out Of The Brooder

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    Jun 24, 2008
    Lancaster County, SC
    Temp too HIGH if hatching early.
     
  3. Mrs MIA

    Mrs MIA Chick Magnet

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    It looks like you did everything right... have you double checked the accuracy of your thermometer? It's true, that hatching early could be too high on the temps.
    Forced air should be at 99.5°F. Still air should be 101.5 at the egg level. Perhaps it was something with the eggs. Sometimes it's just not meant to be. :aww
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2008
  4. hippichick

    hippichick Chillin' With My Peeps

    Apr 13, 2008
    Branch, La
    Mrs. AK-Bird-Brain :

    It looks like you did everything right... have you double checked the accuracy of your thermometer? It's true, that hatching early could be too high on the temps.
    Forced air should be at 99.5°F. Still air should be 101.5 at the egg level. Perhaps it was something with the eggs. Sometimes it's just not meant to be. :aww

    I did double check my thermometer. It seems to be right. Is that 99.5 in the bator, not in a wiggler.
    The chicks that did hatch just hatched so easily and clean that I just can't understand why the others didn't hatch. It's just so frustrating. And I have other eggs to put in the incubator and just want to fix this before putting them in.​
     
  5. Mrs MIA

    Mrs MIA Chick Magnet

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    In a forced air you're looking for 99.5 in the wiggler. The air temps will oscillate somewhat, but if the average is 99.5, you should be good to go.
    In a still air, I keep my air temps as close to 101.5 as possible (I don't have room for a wiggler).

    There might have been something contaminating the eggs, you may never know for sure. Just make sure you disinfect well before the next hatch, and the temps/humidity good, and you should be ok.
     
  6. MissPrissy

    MissPrissy Overrun With Chickens Premium Member

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    May 7, 2007
    Forks, Virginia
    No one has a perfect hatch evey time. Even with eggs straight out of the barn.

    It would be great if we could hatch as well as a broody hen. Sometimes we can and many times we can't.

    Without scientific analysis there is no explanation why some eggs hatch and others don't. It happens to even the most experienced hatchers.

    If something was genetically wrong with the chicks they would not hatch and suvive any way. Sometimes it is best an egg never hatches than to watch a deformed or damaged chick stuggle and die. Only the strongest chicks hatch.
     
  7. nymph&nimor

    nymph&nimor New Egg

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    Jul 7, 2008
    i had the same problem this year with Americanas, d'Anvers, and Cuckoo Marans. i did some research and found a list of reasons why the chicks died just hours before they hatched.

    Problem solution Cause
    Embryos die day 1-2 Eggs stored too long. Fluctuation in temperature, improper turning, inbreeding store eggs 6 days or less, control temperature, vitamin supplement, new rooster.

    Embryos die day 1-7 Aflatoxicosis Avoid feeding moldy grain

    Embryos die day 12-18 Temperature too high or low, bad ventilation, incorrect breeder ration Control temperature, open bents, feed milk, yellow corn, alfalfa meal, cod liver oil

    Die day 19-21 (yellowish brown fluid in eggs) Colibacillosis Hatch only clean, sanitized eggs

    Die day 21 (without pipping) Eggs not turned correctly, hereditary weakness, wrong temperature, pseudomonas Use stock with high hatchability, control hatching temperature, improve incubator sanitation.

    Die day 21 (pipped) Humidity too low, temperature too low, temporary temperature surge Increase humidity, increase temperature, control temperature

    Die at 21 days Omphalitis, paratyphoid Hatch only clean sanitized eggs, hatch eggs only from typhoid clean breeders

    Die at 21 days (too big to get out of shell) Poor hatching ventilation Open vents
     
  8. Eggseronious

    Eggseronious Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Mar 6, 2008
    East Tennessee
    Hippichick looks like you had most everything in line for a good hatch, however a 40% loss before day 18 is high. [​IMG] Were the eggs shipped? local? fertility checked? home raised? Alot of factors can pull the hatch rate down. You mentioned the temps! Are you sure your thermometer is correct? If not, it can be calibrated. You know we can sit here and discuss a thousand things to help, but what you need to do is back up and regroup! [​IMG] Hey all have to do this sometimes! Make sure the eggs are fertile and from a young healthy flock that has been fed right, store them correctly for no longer than 7 days. Get a thermometer that is correct and calibrated. Well looks like you have done the incubation right from your post. Good luck next time around. [​IMG]
     
  9. Mrs MIA

    Mrs MIA Chick Magnet

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    I believe she did say that she checked the accuracy of the thermometer...
    That is one thing, though... I forgot to ask if these were shipped eggs. If they are, there is a good chance they were scrambled in transit, and even if everything is within range you can still lose chicks at the final hour. Believe me, I know... [​IMG] When eggs are shipped, if the yolk sac gets broken or the airsac detached from the egg wall, it is VERY hard to hatch a chick. I had 20 mille fleur eggs from Peeps7... All were good when candled at day 7, but by day 18, all but 6 had died off. Of those 6 that went in the hatcher, only one hatched. I figure I have one tough little dude there. [​IMG] All of may incubating parameters were on par, but only one made it. So, if those were shipped eggs, then I'd say you did particularly well. [​IMG]
     
  10. Myst4

    Myst4 Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Apr 1, 2008
    N.S., Canada
    In my personal opinion, I think the more eggs you have in a bator the more humidity you need and with all of those eggs together,they produce heat together.....if I make sense. Like the eggs in the middle are going to have more heat then those on the edge. I find with having a smaller amount of eggs in a bator, then the chances of hatches are higher. Maybe I am wrong. I don't know.
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2008

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