Wichita knock-off framing plan review

allformisty

In the Brooder
Dec 30, 2020
3
1
14
Michigan
Hello all!

Recently grabbed the great Wichita Cabin Coop plans, and in the process of expanding upon them. Our current coop is a muddy mess, so this spring we're looking to demolish and upgrade to a drier, easier to clean, better to access, and less prone to bumblefeet situation.

Attached our the framing plans so far -- I don't have much construction experience, but we did put up a roof on the chickens current run using the SunTuf corrugated plastic, which gave us the confidence to do a whole reno. But, that also means I have very little clue outside of what I can glean from YouTube and websites concerning roofing, walls, and foundations.

Specific questions, and thank you in advance for reviewing. I hope to pass on my own knowledge after we're done with this!
  • Does the roof look right, or am I missing some important beams somewhere?
  • Foundation-wise, we're in Michigan with a 42" frost line and clay. I've read pouring concrete caissons would be best, but making sure the j bolt is flush, as well as digging at least 4 feet, might be overkill? People seem to use cinderblock, but I've read that in-ground and under pressure, those can crack. Solid concrete block seems easier, but seems prone to settling. Have a missed a simple option somewhere?
  • The consensus seems to be that newer pressure-treated lumber is safe -- but others use a wood hardener on regular lumber instead. Is that a whole debate I should ignore?
Thanks again for any input. The girls will thank you, eventually, too!
 

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DobieLover

Easily distracted by chickens
Premium Feather Member
Jul 23, 2018
34,660
282,595
1,642
NY Southern Tier
My Coop
My Coop
Hello all!

Recently grabbed the great Wichita Cabin Coop plans, and in the process of expanding upon them. Our current coop is a muddy mess, so this spring we're looking to demolish and upgrade to a drier, easier to clean, better to access, and less prone to bumblefeet situation.

Attached our the framing plans so far -- I don't have much construction experience, but we did put up a roof on the chickens current run using the SunTuf corrugated plastic, which gave us the confidence to do a whole reno. But, that also means I have very little clue outside of what I can glean from YouTube and websites concerning roofing, walls, and foundations.

Specific questions, and thank you in advance for reviewing. I hope to pass on my own knowledge after we're done with this!
  • Does the roof look right, or am I missing some important beams somewhere?
  • Foundation-wise, we're in Michigan with a 42" frost line and clay. I've read pouring concrete caissons would be best, but making sure the j bolt is flush, as well as digging at least 4 feet, might be overkill? People seem to use cinderblock, but I've read that in-ground and under pressure, those can crack. Solid concrete block seems easier, but seems prone to settling. Have a missed a simple option somewhere?
  • The consensus seems to be that newer pressure-treated lumber is safe -- but others use a wood hardener on regular lumber instead. Is that a whole debate I should ignore?
Thanks again for any input. The girls will thank you, eventually, too!
Put a bottom plate under your walls. You don't really need the 2x6 "skirt" you have around the base perimeter. If you want something for 1/2" HC attachment, you can used ripped down 2x4 PT lumber to save a bit of money.
You don't need beams on your load bearing walls if you have a properly constructed load bearing wall.
For your climate, you would want a wall that has no more than 2' on center (OC) construction. You appear to have 4'OC for more open space between the studs. Therefore, you will want beams over your wall studs. You can construct each wall with a bottom and top plate then put a beam over them. I'd use a double 2x6.
You can also use 2'OC for your rafter spacing and make sure each one sits lined up over a wall stud. I would remove the blocking between all of the rafters and enclose that space with 1/2" hardware cloth instead.
You can use PT lumber. The older PT lumber was preserved with arsenic salts. Todays lumber is preserved with copper quaternary salts.
I went with a concrete pier foundation. I had to dig to 42" and installed 8 piers. It took one day to dig it all out (in hardpan soil), pour the concrete and set the J-bolts. This way I know it won't settle or suffer frost heave. I've seen frost heave and what it can do and I didn't want to ever have to worry about it.
If you want some basics on constructing your run/coop combo, you can click on the My Coop link under my avatar and read what I've got there. It's pretty general and there are lots of pictures.
 
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allformisty

In the Brooder
Dec 30, 2020
3
1
14
Michigan
Thank you both! Greatly appreciate the help. They should really teach wall framing in elementary school :)

I've moved the studs to 2' OC and placed the rafters over top, replaced the double 2x4 with double 2x6 as the top beam, increased the roof angle to ~17*, and removed the roof blocking.

And good to hear about the newer PT wood.

It seems concrete piers are the way to go. Just out today and needed to dig out some frozen ground that swelled in the way of the chicken's door!
 

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