Will this work for buttons? ~ raising, breeding, etc

Discussion in 'Quail' started by ducksarecool12, Mar 16, 2013.

  1. ducksarecool12

    ducksarecool12 Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Jul 27, 2010
    oklahoma
    I originally built this for a chick brooder for my occasional hatchings, but am having other ideas... :) I want to keep the top floor a brooder for my hatchings but the bottom one I want to keep a pair of buttons in for pets and breeding. I live in the city so I sadly can't have rooster so no chicks... :/ BUT! I think I found something I can still hatch year around!! Button quail!!! I love hatching but it cost so much to continue ordering eggs to hatch.. The problem is... I know nothing about them or breeding them! What would you do to make this a suitable environment? I've only ever hatched chickens. If it helps, I have a automatic hovabator 1588 with turner. I'm extremely excited about my discovery and am eager to read your information!
     
  2. ducksarecool12

    ducksarecool12 Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Jul 27, 2010
    oklahoma
    [​IMG]
    Somehow... I forgot to upload the picture! :O it's 3' long 1 1/2' wide and 2' high
     
  3. ducksarecool12

    ducksarecool12 Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Jul 27, 2010
    oklahoma
    Anybody?
     
  4. GrandmaBird

    GrandmaBird Chillin' With My Peeps

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    May 28, 2012
    Colorado
    I would suggest going to this web site and ordering her book.

    http://www.brackenridgeranch.com/

    The writer Jodi McDonald is the queen of Chinese Blue Breasted Quail aka button Quail.

    I have a couple questions for you about your photo:
    is the black wire unit the brooder? if so how do you regulate the temperature in it? Buttons chicks have certain heat requirements, its in the book or we can give you general info as well. Or is that the grow out cage?

    buttons need 1 square foot minimum per pair and they must be kept in pairs! My pair are in a flight cage that is 18deep 18 high and 36 wide. There are several people who disagree but I have seen them kept in pairs and groups and the ones in pairs are much calmer, happier and healthier too. this is after they become breeding age, 8-10 weeks old.

    I do suggest the book but if you do not want to spend the $$ then just let us know.
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2013
  5. ducksarecool12

    ducksarecool12 Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Jul 27, 2010
    oklahoma
    I rather not get a book but if I can't find enough information, I will. The brooder has led lights on the top for "day lighting" and for heat for chicks I have ecoglow brooders. I know they are better in pairs so I was thinking I would either just get one pair and use the whole bottom unit, or get two pairs and decide the bottom in half. I want to keep the top unit a brooder for their babies I hatch and if I hatch chickens in the future. My problem is that I'm having a really hard time finding information on what needs to be in their cage, their care, and breeding. I've really found nothing!
     
  6. GrandmaBird

    GrandmaBird Chillin' With My Peeps

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    May 28, 2012
    Colorado
    There are several good web sites on them try looking for Chinese Blue Breasted Quail not buttons. Jodi's is one but Stellar game birds is another and there are several pages on face book and youtube about them too. if you have specific questions you can send me a private message on here and I will respond to the best of my knowledge and reference Jodi's book as I do have it.
    The cage should have either a solid bottom or wire that is covered with nonslip shelf liner and aspen or pine shavings or sand is really the best if you can stand the mess. They need about 1 square foot per pair but are happier with more room, in your cage I think i would place one pair with a few hiding spots, using boxes, caves and plastic plants work well, also be sure the roof is boink proof using a net or other soft material to avoid head injury.. They need game bird feed (for turkeys and pheasants) NOT medicated chick or regular chicken feed, medicated will make the males infertile. And lots of fresh water in a bottle waterer or the like to keep it clean and they do not bath in water they need a sand or dust bath. Mine get treats ever other day of hard cooked egg smashed up sometimes with cooked cornbread crumbs. fruit, and veggies like spinach or broccoli. Once a week with live food like meal worms is enough so they do not get too fat as they will eat lots of them if allowed. Fresh clean green grass timothy hay are good too. Crushed oyster shell for calcium, you can use chicken egg shell that is finely ground and be sure it is from hard boiled eggs or you need to heat the shells to kill the bacteria that can be in the raw egg, and bird grit or fine sand for grinding their food. let see that's:
    food
    water
    bedding
    hiding spots/boink factor
    bath
    calcium
    grit

    thinks that about enough for now like I said any more ? let me know
     

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