Winter chicks: reducing daylight hours to prevent early egg laying

emjones

Hatching
Feb 27, 2022
9
4
9
Albuquerque, NM
Hi all, I have a question that I haven't found yet on the forum about controlling lighting and the length of the day for winter chicks. There's a note in Gail Damerow's "Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens" (in the "Laying-Hen Management" chapter, "Lighting for Pullets" section) that says, "If you raise pullets in the off-season, increasing day length that normally triggers reproduction will speed up their maturity.... Pullets that start laying before their bodies are ready... are more likely to prolapse. Pullets should be kept either on a constant 8- to 10-hour day or in decreasing light. ... Those hatched from August to March need controlled lighting to delay maturity."

I received my day-old chicks in the mail on Feb. 2, 2022, and have been following the above advice. To give them controlled lighting, I set a light on a timer that turned on around midnight to effectively make the days 18 hours long during the first week. In the 6 weeks since then, I've been delaying the timer so the light turns on later each week, so the chicks' day length is decreasing. The goal is to reduce the amount of time the light is on gradually, until the chicks' day length matches the natural day length in June when they're 24 weeks old and ready to start laying eggs. This has worked well in their brooder in the garage, which is a decently large area (given the still-small size of the chicks). The light comes on at 2 am currently, and they have plenty of space to run around and do their thing.

Now it's time to move them from the garage out to the coop. While I don't have electricity in the coop, I can run an extension cord for the light. My concern, though, is that I don't have an automatic door on the coop. I'm worried the chicks will be in too-small an area for their entire "morning" from about 2 am until 6 or 7 am when I can go open their pop door and let them out into the run. I have a Producer's Pride Sentinel XL coop from TSC, with the interior "coop" part (not counting the fenced-in run) measuring about 3.5 ft x 5.5 ft, or 19.25 sq. ft. I have 9 chicks, so just over 2 sq. ft. / chick for the interior. I know this is lower than the 4 sq. ft. / chick that's usually cited, but this is only the interior of the coop where they sleep. They'll have a completely enclosed run that is 5.5 x 6.75 ft (~37 sq. ft or 4 sq. ft./chick) plus a large section of the yard that I've fenced off from the dogs (but not made otherwise predator-proof) that is ~ 35 x 55 ft (1,925 sq. ft. or 214 sq. ft. / chick) during the day.

Given all of that, my question is two-fold: a) Is the controlled lighting to mimic a reducing day length important? How big of a risk would I run regarding early egg laying and associated concerns of egg binding and prolapse, if I didn't bring the light out to the coop? Would it be bad to instead let the chicks operate on the natural day length, which is of course increasing right now in March? b) If I do need to continue to mimic the reducing day length, will the chicks be ok in the smaller inside coop area (9 chicks in 19 sq. ft.) for ~ 4 hours in their "morning", before I can open the pop door and give them access to the rest of their daytime run area?

This is my first time raising chicks, so I appreciate any and all feedback!

Thanks,
Elizabeth
 
Hi all, I have a question that I haven't found yet on the forum about controlling lighting and the length of the day for winter chicks. There's a note in Gail Damerow's "Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens" (in the "Laying-Hen Management" chapter, "Lighting for Pullets" section) that says, "If you raise pullets in the off-season, increasing day length that normally triggers reproduction will speed up their maturity.... Pullets that start laying before their bodies are ready... are more likely to prolapse. Pullets should be kept either on a constant 8- to 10-hour day or in decreasing light. ... Those hatched from August to March need controlled lighting to delay maturity."

I received my day-old chicks in the mail on Feb. 2, 2022, and have been following the above advice. To give them controlled lighting, I set a light on a timer that turned on around midnight to effectively make the days 18 hours long during the first week. In the 6 weeks since then, I've been delaying the timer so the light turns on later each week, so the chicks' day length is decreasing. The goal is to reduce the amount of time the light is on gradually, until the chicks' day length matches the natural day length in June when they're 24 weeks old and ready to start laying eggs. This has worked well in their brooder in the garage, which is a decently large area (given the still-small size of the chicks). The light comes on at 2 am currently, and they have plenty of space to run around and do their thing.

Now it's time to move them from the garage out to the coop. While I don't have electricity in the coop, I can run an extension cord for the light. My concern, though, is that I don't have an automatic door on the coop. I'm worried the chicks will be in too-small an area for their entire "morning" from about 2 am until 6 or 7 am when I can go open their pop door and let them out into the run. I have a Producer's Pride Sentinel XL coop from TSC, with the interior "coop" part (not counting the fenced-in run) measuring about 3.5 ft x 5.5 ft, or 19.25 sq. ft. I have 9 chicks, so just over 2 sq. ft. / chick for the interior. I know this is lower than the 4 sq. ft. / chick that's usually cited, but this is only the interior of the coop where they sleep. They'll have a completely enclosed run that is 5.5 x 6.75 ft (~37 sq. ft or 4 sq. ft./chick) plus a large section of the yard that I've fenced off from the dogs (but not made otherwise predator-proof) that is ~ 35 x 55 ft (1,925 sq. ft. or 214 sq. ft. / chick) during the day.

Given all of that, my question is two-fold: a) Is the controlled lighting to mimic a reducing day length important? How big of a risk would I run regarding early egg laying and associated concerns of egg binding and prolapse, if I didn't bring the light out to the coop? Would it be bad to instead let the chicks operate on the natural day length, which is of course increasing right now in March? b) If I do need to continue to mimic the reducing day length, will the chicks be ok in the smaller inside coop area (9 chicks in 19 sq. ft.) for ~ 4 hours in their "morning", before I can open the pop door and give them access to the rest of their daytime run area?

This is my first time raising chicks, so I appreciate any and all feedback!

Thanks,
Elizabeth
Uhh, I feel like you don't need to be that careful with the lighting. 2 month olds don't need the full 4 sq ft per bird that they would as adults. In your circumstance I would just take away the light cycle when they're moved to the coop and switch them to normal daylight.

I run my chicks on light 24 hours a day for the first 4 - 6 weeks. After that they have no light added, and are on daylight only. Haven't had any issues with prolapse... ever, and I've been hatching my own chicks every year and raising them for 4 years.

The earliest I've ever gotten an egg was at about 19 weeks, but Barred rocks tend to lay earlier than other breeds anyway. The other breeds I have waited until they were over 6 months before I saw eggs from them.
 
Rose
Uhh, I feel like you don't need to be that careful with the lighting. 2 month olds don't need the full 4 sq ft per bird that they would as adults. In your circumstance I would just take away the light cycle when they're moved to the coop and switch them to normal daylight.

I run my chicks on light 24 hours a day for the first 4 - 6 weeks. After that they have no light added, and are on daylight only. Haven't had any issues with prolapse... ever, and I've been hatching my own chicks every year and raising them for 4 years.

The earliest I've ever gotten an egg was at about 19 weeks, but Barred rocks tend to lay earlier than other breeds anyway. The other breeds I have waited until they were over 6 months before I saw eggs from them.
@Rose Quartz : Thanks Rose, it's good to hear your personal experience.

@Poultrybonkers : I know I'm a newbie here, but everything I've read says that daylight hours is a factor in egg laying.

@Huntmaster : Do you have any experience with hatching winter chicks and needing to reduce their daylight hours as they mature, to prevent early egg laying when their bodies aren't ready?

Anyone else have any advice on daylight hours for winter chicks?

Thanks!
 
How much daylight do you get in winter? Most chickens need more hours of light to start laying that we get in winter. I don't even have that now in March.

I could be wrong, but not using any supplemental lighting and allowing the sun to do its thing should be fine. I have had multiple batches of chicks hatched during those months. I don't even use heat lamps in my brooders (mama heating pad). I've not once had a hen prolapse. Closest my flock's had to vent problems was a rooster who developed a protruding vent.
 
I have August-October chicks that don’t get supplemental lighting. The heritage breeds started laying around 6 months and several of them are not showing any signs of being ready to lay at 7 months. The Sapphire Gems started laying much earlier comparatively, but they’re a hybrid for more production. The EEs and Marans are not laying yet, same age as the Sapphire Gems. The ones that surprised me were the Jersey Giants. They started laying at 20 weeks in December 🤷🏽‍♀️ Very low lighting hours and they’ve been very reliable, the Wyandottes are pretty sporadic about laying still
 

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