worm issue

[slordaz]

This is why it's so important to quarantine ,Started them on corid for looks like coccidosis as just got these chicks yesterday and woke up to this and one with just some bloody, these are pullets approximately 10-12 weeks old, what would be best treatment for worms they are pretty light, they are eating and drinking. This is what was under one of the buff Orpington's when I woke up this morning

 

[dawg53]

My response was to dawg53 that dismissed what I had written so don't get your feather ruffled.
PS. I stand by what I wrote.

I know you're new to chicken keeping and I'd hate to see you learn the hard way about DE, it is hyped. There are many folks in BYC that have learned the hard way when it comes to using DE for worming, or for anything else for that matter.
I have no reason NOT to tell you the truth about DE. I really dont feel like copying and pasting hundreds of BYC threads proving DE doesnt work.

 

[dawg53]

Because two of my hens are so difficult trying to catch I add worm treatment to water. These girls will act like I'm a predator for a week or two after trying to gather them up. My vet does not recommend adding anything to water because he feels some will get higher dose. Before doing so I did extensive reading and research and now feel confident with my decision. And it works. For Safeguard [Fenbendazole 10%] I put 1 1/2 TBL or 3cc[ml] in 1 gallon of water for 3 days in a row and I repeat in 3 weeks. If gapes are suspected it is recommended to repeat in 10 days. I follow-up with probiotic dose added to water afterwards. Their yearly stool test have always come back negative.

I used to do that as well, same as you're doing now. Actually it's ineffective. The reason is that the liquid goat wormer doesnt mix well in the water and settles, not to mention the dilution of the product making it ineffective in treating worms.
Your vet is correct. Also consider about the birds that drink LESS of the mixture, and not all birds drink the same amount.

You can do as I do. Go out early in the morning before dawn and snatch them off the roost one by one and worm them orally, then release them. This is effective because birds havnt eaten since the previous day. The worms havnt eaten and they'll be hungry too. You'll be feeding them the wormer and that'll knock them off for sure lol.

Cradle the bird in your forearm. Grab your pre-loaded syringe (without needle) with your free hand. Use your fingers and thumb on the hand you're cradling the bird and pull her wattles down and her mouth will open. If she shakes her head, hang on and she'll eventually tire. Then squirt the liquid in her mouth (no more than 1/2cc at a time.) Once you squirt the liquid in her mouth, IMMEDIATELY let go of the wattles so she can swallow the liquid on her own. If you dont let go of the wattles right away, she can aspirate, the liquid will go down the windpipe and then there would be big trouble.

Repeat this procedure until all birds are wormed. The liquid goat wormer may require more liquid depending on the weight of the bird. Remember, administer no more than 1/2cc orally at a time, letting go of the wattles, and letting her swallow the liquid on her own. Then you can administer the rest of the liquid.

I recommend that you do a "dry run," practice the cradling a bird, handling the wattles etc. That way you'll feel more comfortable worming them by yourself.
OR, you can get someone to hold the bird for you while you worm them.

 

[slordaz]

Good for you on quarantining new birds!
Those look like Roundworms.

You can give Valbazen at 0.08ml per pound of weight orally, then repeat in 10 days. This will take care of most worms found in poultry (including Roundworms)

Fenbendazole (Safeguard) can also be used. For treatment of Roundworms only, dose at 0.23ml per pound of weight, given orally - repeat in 10 days. If you feel there may be other types of worms, give the Fenbendazole for 5 days in a row.

To be more effective worm in the morning when the crop is empty. Let them have water of course, but withhold feed for a few hours after they up.

I would continue the full course of Corid at severe outbreak dose for 5-7 days, then step down to preventative dose for another 3-5 days.
You may want to check them for lice/mites as well.

AFTER you finish with the Corid, offer some poultry vitamins for a few days. I would also give some buttermilk, yogurt or probiotics to help restore the gut too.

View attachment 1904938

thank you, guess better grab a scale for them too while I'm at it, have never had an issue, but did think to send the picture to the breeder too so he knows his birds have an overload

 

[Wyorp Rock]

thank you, guess better grab a scale for them too while I'm at it, have never had an issue, but did think to send the picture to the breeder too so he knows his birds have an overload

Good idea on both counts! A scale comes in handy. Definitely let the breeder know, for you to be seeing physical worms in the poop, that's an overload for sure. Worms feed off the host and "like" to stay inside, so for them to be expelled, there's not much "room" in there.
Hope they all do well. Post some photos of your new babies when you get a chance

 

[dawg53]

Eewww...I am going to freak out when/if I ever find something like this. I read somewhere to mix DE in their feed every couple of months to prevent this. Hope this is true cause that is what I'm relying on. Again, eeewwww!

DE will not prevent nor treat worms.

 

[Wyorp Rock]

This is why it's so important to quarantine ,Started them on corid for looks like coccidosis as just got these chicks yesterday and woke up to this and one with just some bloody, these are pullets approximately 10-12 weeks old, what would be best treatment for worms they are pretty light, they are eating and drinking. This is what was under one of the buff Orpington's when I woke up this morningView attachment 1904926

Good for you on quarantining new birds!
Those look like Roundworms.

You can give Valbazen at 0.08ml per pound of weight orally, then repeat in 10 days. This will take care of most worms found in poultry (including Roundworms)

Fenbendazole (Safeguard) can also be used. For treatment of Roundworms only, dose at 0.23ml per pound of weight, given orally - repeat in 10 days. If you feel there may be other types of worms, give the Fenbendazole for 5 days in a row.

To be more effective worm in the morning when the crop is empty. Let them have water of course, but withhold feed for a few hours after they up.

I would continue the full course of Corid at severe outbreak dose for 5-7 days, then step down to preventative dose for another 3-5 days.
You may want to check them for lice/mites as well.

AFTER you finish with the Corid, offer some poultry vitamins for a few days. I would also give some buttermilk, yogurt or probiotics to help restore the gut too.

 

[pibb]

Amprolium is a thiamine (vitamin B1) blocker so you don't wont to give them any vitamin B1 except for what may already be in their feed until they are off the Corid.

 

[Criticalicious]

I don't believe there's an egg withdrawal period for Corid, only for the dewormers.

 

[dawg53]

these are pullets not eggs to withdraw thank heavens, next up is getting the last 2 dosed with de-wormer so can get on with the rest of the chores lol after battle with the last 2 feels more like nap time lol

Yeah, I like taking naps! zzzzzzz