Hen is becoming skinny...

Mei&Popcorn

Songster
8 Years
Sep 9, 2011
463
7
101
Somewhere over the rainbow
Hi all! I have a BO hen who is getting skinny. I know it isn't worms because my flock was dewormed recently. I picked her up and she feels lighter, and I can feel that she's skinnier. Also, I'm pretty sure she's eating less. She's also molting right now... Could it be due to that?


Also, another question, I have 2 Easter eggers (same hatch), and the bottoms of their feet have turned orange! Could this be an infection? They haven't eaten anything orange, and they're the only ones who have it. The rest of their legs are grey...

Thanks!
 
Hi all! I have a BO hen who is getting skinny. I know it isn't worms because my flock was dewormed recently. I picked her up and she feels lighter, and I can feel that she's skinnier. Also, I'm pretty sure she's eating less. She's also molting right now... Could it be due to that?


Also, another question, I have 2 Easter eggers (same hatch), and the bottoms of their feet have turned orange! Could this be an infection? They haven't eaten anything orange, and they're the only ones who have it. The rest of their legs are grey...

Thanks!

First, which dewormer was used, how was it given, and what was the dosage?

Have you ever used a preventative for coccidiosis?

What are you feeding them, and what supplements, if any, are you using?

I'm unfamiliar with what many call Easter Eggers, so I don't know about leg color or perhaps changing leg color in that breed. Perhaps someone else who keeps them may have advice.
 
Yes molting can cause weight loss in chickens, you might want to go get feather fix or a non-medicated chick/grower feed high in protein. She is most likely needing more protein in her diet if molting. I observed in my BO 6 month old hen she lost weight when going threw a molt recently. I did my best to encourage her to eat extra + gave her a couple of meal worms a day. It is a pretty sucks for them, she got less cuddly it seemed her skin hurt/was sensitive she was fussy about being touched anywhere she had new feather growth.

But cover all the chicky bases since birds are so different then us, cats & dogs.
 
Hi all! I have a BO hen who is getting skinny. I know it isn't worms because my flock was dewormed recently. I picked her up and she feels lighter, and I can feel that she's skinnier. Also, I'm pretty sure she's eating less. She's also molting right now... Could it be due to that?



Also, another question, I have 2 Easter eggers (same hatch), and the bottoms of their feet have turned orange! Could this be an infection? They haven't eaten anything orange, and they're the only ones who have it. The rest of their legs are grey...


Thanks!



First, which dewormer was used, how was it given, and what was the dosage?

Have you ever used a preventative for coccidiosis?

What are you feeding them, and what supplements, if any, are you using?

I'm unfamiliar with what many call Easter Eggers, so I don't know about leg color or perhaps changing leg color in that breed. Perhaps someone else who keeps them may have advice.


I used pour on ivermectin, and I believe I used 6 drops...

No, I have never used a preventative.

And, I'm not feeding any supplements (does oyster shell count?)
 
Yes molting can cause weight loss in chickens, you might want to go get feather fix or a non-medicated chick/grower feed high in protein. She is most likely needing more protein in her diet if molting. I observed in my BO 6 month old hen she lost weight when going threw a molt recently. I did my best to encourage her to eat extra + gave her a couple of meal worms a day. It is a pretty sucks for them, she got less cuddly it seemed her skin hurt/was sensitive she was fussy about being touched anywhere she had new feather growth. 

But cover all the chicky bases since birds are so different then us, cats & dogs.


Oh, I see. She's been really unfriendly and avoiding me lately so I guess that explains that too. I'll try to give her lots of protein, then, thanks!
 
Ivermectin will not effectively deworm your birds. Oyster shell will provide extra calcium and that is it, and if they aren't eating it, that means they are deficient. I suggest you get some poultry vitamin-mineral-electrolyte soluble powder, some Probios dispersible powder, either Safeguard liquid (labeled for goats) or Valbazen liquid suspension, and Corid 9.6% liquid at your local feed store as soon as you can.

Are your birds moulting? Let me know and we'll get on with the correct dosages. I am pressed for time so I will check back in later. You don't want to let this anemic condition continue or you will have a dead bird.
 
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Corid dosage for treatment of coccidiosis is 2 tsp of the liquid, or 1.5 tsp of the powder per gallon of water for 5-7 days, while treating all chickens as the only water source. Change it daily. At the end of treatment you will want to supplement with probiotics and some vitamins (especially A, thiamine, and K.) Vitamin K is in green leafy vegetables such as kale and collards. For worming Valbazen is very good, and dosage is 1/2 ml orally given to each chickens, then repeated in 10 days. SafeGuard may also be used unless they are molting.
 
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Ivermectin will not effectively deworm your birds. Oyster shell will provide extra calcium and that is it, and if they aren't eating it, that means they are deficient. I suggest you get some poultry vitamin-mineral-electrolyte soluble powder, some Probios dispersible powder, either Safeguard liquid (labeled for goats) or Valbazen liquid suspension, and Corid 9.6% liquid at your local feed store as soon as you can.

Are your birds moulting? Let me know and we'll get on with the correct dosages. I am pressed for time so I will check back in later. You don't want to let this anemic condition continue or you will have a dead bird.
Only the BO is molting, the others are pretty much done (but not laying yet).

Thanks.
 
Corid dosage for treatment of coccidiosis is 2 tsp of the liquid, or 1.5 tsp of the powder per gallon of water for 5-7 days, while treating all chickens as the only water source. Change it daily. At the end of treatment you will want to supplement with probiotics and some vitamins (especially A, thiamine, and K.) Vitamin K is in green leafy vegetables such as kale and collards. For worming Valbazen is very good, and dosage is 1/2 ml orally given to each chickens, then repeated in 10 days. SafeGuard may also be used unless they are molting.
Ok, I'll try to get Corid this weekend.
 
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Ok, I'll try to get Corid this weekend.

Get vitamin-electrolytes and Probios dispersible powder too. Don't forget 1ml syringes and Safe-guard liquid suspension. It looks like this:
th
Valbazen, like Egg mentioned, is an excellent dewormer, but also more expensive. It depends on how much money you want to spend.
 
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