flood light for chicks

albird101

Chirping
6 Years
Jun 2, 2013
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I have a 100 watt flood light red and I was wondering if it would warm up the chicks or does it have to be a heat bulb
 
The key is to check the temperatures down at chick level. Put a thermometer there and the temperature needs to be stable day/night (no cooling off at night) according to the recommended temperatures.

See this:
https://www.mcmurrayhatchery.com/chickcare.html

Very helpful tips on temperature etc.

I have used up to three 100 watt bulbs in winter, and two for other times. For one it would have to be very warm already in the brooder.
 
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It depends on how much heat your bulb puts out. As long as it raises the temperature to about 90-95 degrees Fahrenheit, it would work fine as a brooder heat lamp bulb.
 
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X2 on Bantamlover21. Measure the temperature at chick level; if it is too cold, move the bulb closer. If it is too hot, move it farther away.
 
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I have a 100 watt flood light red and I was wondering if it would warm up the chicks or does it have to be a heat bulb
There is a difference between a heat blub and a light bulb. A light blub sends out warmth as a side effect of producing the light. Like an incandescent blub. A heat blub produces light, however it is also designed to heat any objects within the light stream area. So when you are warming chicks with a standard incandescent, you are heating them with the heat cast off as a result fo the light being on. When you use a heat bulb, you are heating them with a bulb specifically designed to heat "objects" within the light's realm of influence, not just the area itself. See the difference? This is why folk can cook their chicks with a heat bulb without intending too. In my 4x6 coop I can use a 85 watt floodlight to help keep the cock's combs from frostbite. In a brooder I simply use a 60 watt incandescent blub. This is not a baby nursery and I think a lot of folk get confused on that issue. These are baby chicks,... but... they are not bare skinned humans. They already have insulating down. They run to the light to catch some warmth but don't need every inch of their brooder heated to optimum temperature. Just a warm area they can go to, to get warm if they wish. For a standard 100 gallon tote, a 60 watt light is fine. Put the light at one end and cut the tote top in half as a cover for the other end of the tote. Then you can move the 1/2 cover off to one side if you want to reduce temps if it gets too hot. After the chicks are a couple of weeks old, I change the 1/2 top to a hardware cloth lid. Works great.
The point of all this is, temps in the brooder can be variable without harming the chicks. Nuts, these hens hatch chicks in the cold of Feb. . The chicks stay under Mom for warmth. Run out to eat and drink, then back under Mom for warmth again. They do just fine.
Best Success,
Karen
P.S, Never use a bulb which has a Teflon coating. Sometimes called "rugged" bulbs. When lit, they give off carbon monoxide which will kill all your birds overnight. Just use a reg. 60 to 85 watt floodlight or 60 to 75 watt incandescent blub.
 
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One other thing. You should be monitoring the humidity in your brooder as well as the temp. Get an air-sensing hygrometer. That's a thermometer which also senses humidity. Should be able to find one with a digital readout for not too much money. You want to watch the humidity so the chicks aren't dehydrating in their warm brooder. Air-sensing is most accurate. Set it on the floor of th brooder about 1/2 way between the light and the food at the other end of the brooder. They will kick it over and poop on it. It will keep on working for you. I just clean mine every once and a while, smile.
Best,
Karen
 
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