Sorry, I frequently call the entire structure the "coop", when in reality, the coop is what I call "upstairs" and the downstairs is the run. The run is 4x8, upstairs coop is 4x3.
Any way to integrate new birds in smaller spaces? Maybe some sort of soft release pen inside the run, or have the...
I know the rule of thumb is generally 2-3' per bird in the coop and 8-10' per bird in the run. My coop is 4x8', the upstairs is about 4x3'. I have kept 4 large breed hens at a time in this coop for several years without any problems. I let them out daily in the evenings to roam my entire...
I planned to level and lay these on the perimeter, not dig down 16" to have these sitting vertically. The critter trying to get into my coop would have to start digging at the front edge of the paver, dig down a few inches under the paver, then tunnel 16" horizontally to get up into the run...
Is 16" enough? I have a bunch of 16" square concrete pavers. I figured I could create a skirt with them for predator proofing and they would serve double duty to keep the coop elevated out of the dirt. Thanks.
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I use this for feed, grit, and oyster with my adult birds. Has anyone successfully used a scaled down version in a brooder or grow pen? My chicks are about 3 weeks old and waste more feed than they eat with their current feeder.
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Are you talking 2' straight down into the earth, or a 2' strip around the perimeter just a few inches underground? I was going to do the second method on my current build. No way I am digging a 2' deep trench.
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Existing:
I want to build something like this:
Can I get away with the existing ~7" opening into the boxes? This will prevent me from having to redo any siding on the coop. I figured I could build the new box and mount it to the outside. The girls would enter the box through the ~7"...
What if I use these?
Wouldn't valley tin or corrugated metal be easier to install? And I would prefer the look of those two over shingles.
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