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I also made a light bulb heater in an old ammo case. Used a 60 watt bulb, it sucked too. It was freezing on top at 30f...

Will look at an alternate design in the morning, I do understand what your stating, law of thermo conductivity will prevail....

No, gotta have heated water in the run too, coop not worried about. I work very long shifts and can be gone for 14 hours at a time. I do not have time to empty tubs throughout a day, I do not use huge amounts of water at a time, and change water accordingly. I do not want ice bergs all over too....

The dog bowl is 60 watts, and built far more efficient than this cinder block heater. I have only metal on the top of the block now. The cement should heat up, and radiate heat, in theory at least. Insulating the hole where the bulb sits,hmmmm, keeping the heat in, but allowing it to radiate up...

Switched to metal instead of the ceramic tile, see how that goes, gettin chilly out there dropping darn near to 0...

The ceramic tile is very warm to the touch right over the bulb area......

Hi, well the ceramic tile is good and warm to the touch, but maybe metal would work better. I would not want the bottom getting hot and melting plastic, which I doubt would happen. I have switched to a 60 watt bulb for the night. I could put 2 60 watt lights in this cinder block, maybe that...

That could very well be Scott, but it is in the enclosed run, no wind in there tonight. Will see how it does overnight, if it can keep it from freezing solid, it may be okay. The heated dog dishes get some ice on top, but there outside, and it has to be 20-30 below for that to happen...

The pics, dog water, has slobber, Golden Retreiver just had a drink. Th chicken water is freezing on top.

Today used a cement cinder block, with a 100 watt light bulb and fixture placed inside. I then covered the top with a large ceramic tile. I placed the 2 gallon water bowl on top of this. I placed this safely inside of the covered run area. It is about 15 outside, going down close to 0 tonight...