First brooder setup, please evaluate!

Yeah, you missed above that I have the lamp moved up about 10" off the screen. Inside tote has held 94F for the entire first week. Moving it back tonight, targeting 90F for week two.


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Remember that the whole brooder should not be that warm. There MUST be a zone that is at least 20* cooler.
 
Quote: Ditto Dat^^^

That tote with a heat lamp is like an oven.......no cooler area.

If anything, you might change out the bulb to a 60-100 watt 'regular' incandescent bulb with a dimmer extension cord on it to make adjusting the heat output much easier.


Here's my notes on chick heat, hope something in there might help:
They need to be pretty warm(~85-90F on the brooder floor right under the lamp and 10-20 degrees cooler at the other end of brooder) for the first day or two, especially if they have been shipped, until they get to eating, drinking and moving around well. But after that it's best to keep them as cool as possible for optimal feather growth and quicker acclimation to outside temps. A lot of chick illnesses are attributed to too warm of a brooder. I do think it's a good idea to use a thermometer on the floor of the brooder to check the temps, especially when new at brooding, later I still use it but more out of curiosity than need.

The best indicator of heat levels is to watch their behavior:
If they are huddled/piled up right under the lamp and cheeping very loudly, they are too cold.
If they are spread out on the absolute edges of the brooder as far from the lamp as possible, panting and/or cheeping very loudly, they are too hot.
If they sleep around the edge of the lamp calmly just next to each other and spend time running all around the brooder they are juuuust right!

The lamp is best at one end of the brooder with food/water at the other cooler end of the brooder, so they can get away from the heat or be under it as needed. Wattage of 'heat' bulb depends on size of brooder and ambient temperature of room brooder is in. Regular incandescent bulbs can be used, you might not need a 'heat bulb'. You can get red colored incandescent bulbs at a reptile supply source. A dimmer extension cord is an excellent way to adjust the output of the bulb to change the heat without changing the height of the lamp.


Or you could go with a heat plate, commercially made or DIY: https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/pseudo-brooder-heater-plate
 
Very true. Even when I do use a lamp (rarely - usually just the first day after hatch at most or an emergency situation when my heating pads are already in use) I use a red reptile bulb that I get for $5 at Walmart. I think it's 70 watts. Behavior is the best indicator of comfort, and I also aim to keep my babies slightly cool rather than hot. Remember, a bulb hearts all of the air, food, water, bedding, and build up in a solid sided box, leaving no way for the babies to temperature regulate unless you use a very large brooder area (which is optimal anyway). And, of course, there's the fire risk thing, too, because of that concentrated heat build up.
 
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This spring i brooded ten chicks in a large dog kennel .i put cardboard bumpers on the inside, used papertowels then went to shavings on the kennel floor. I used for the first time, the Brensea Ecoglow brooder(20 chick model) it worked amazing! Never worried about temp as the chicks regulated their own temperature by coming and going from the radiant heat source. Its fire safe and extremely economical. A whole lot less worry! Thank God all grew up healthy. I wish ive used this method years ago! It works so smoothly.
 

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