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-Raising Bobwhite Quail-

post #1 of 32
Thread Starter 

-Raising Bobwhite Quail-
Bobwhites are a popular breed for dog training and hunting. Bobwhites are easy to keep and raise. Bobwhites were my first birds ever, and I never had any problem with aggresion. They are  verly fun little birds to have around, the male's call is very nice to hear. Bobwhites provided food for settlers. They were also used for meat, eggs, and hunting. Bobwhite quail are and were famous for their flight action for hunting! The settlers used them for that reason, and the meat.

Hatching and Brooding Bobwhite Quail
-Hatching-

Bobwhite Quail are easy to hatch. I incubate my Bobwhite eggs in a 1266 Sportsman Cabinet incubator. Hovabator, Little Giant, and Brinsea are some more good ones, but I would be careful with LG's (Little Giants), I know a few people who don't have very good luck with them, I have tried it and it wasn't the best. Hovabators are probably your best bet. Bobwhite Quail take 23-26 days to hatch, with 26 days being the longest.  Their temperature needs to be at 99.5-100F. When I incubate them I have our incubator at 100F, I keep turning them through their whole hatch time. I don't stop turning them at the 20th day. If the chicks don't hatch on their due date, give them 3 extra days to hatch.

-Brooding-
Bobwhite chicks are tough, although not like their parents. I used to use a plastic rubbermaid tub, but it was boiling hot in there for them. Ours looks like  this , but with stands below it. It works really well. I keep the temp at 99 in the brooder for the first five days, then I lower it to 96F in their second week and so on. They are feed a 24% Gamebird Starter, I feed them Manna Pro Gamebird/Showbird Starter feed. It works very well. DO NOT feed them medicated food. Try to keep the food at 22% or higher protein. For my chicks I use a Quail Waterer, to prevent them from drowning. If you cannot get those or you don't want to, you can use a chicken chick waterer, but make sure to but marbles in there so they can't drown. Once they are 7 weeks old I move them outside, in to a pen with no birds in it. If the temperature is under 50F I switch on their heat lamp, inside their house/shelter. I feed them the same way, but I add Manna Pro Poultry Conditioner if I plan on showing them. When they have been kept outside for 2 weeks, I switch them over to Sprout Meat Maker which has 22% protein.


Housing and Breeding Bobwhite Quail

-Housing-
I like to keep my bobs on ground, which means they get a bigger area to run and fly around. Our main Bobwhite pen in 12 x 14' in in length. When our Bobwhites are on ground we have pea rock on they groud, for a natural setting, and they can dig around in the rocks. They don't NEED a shelter in their pen, but I like to put one in each pen for if we have a big storm or to lay their eggs in. Many people keep their birds on wire, but I don't have good luck with that at all. They get bloody feet all the time, and break their necks. I hate keeping birds on wire because of that (maybe its because our wire pen is evil lol). Our wire pen is 3' high and 12' long. We have 1/4 in wire on the bottom, but the wire should be a litte bit bigger so the droppings can fall through, but not too big so raccoons can't get them. During the Winter, birds that are not kept indoors such as a barn, should be grouped together so they can form natural coveys for warmth.

-Breeding-
Breeding is relatively easy with Bobwhites. They should be in a ratio of 1 male to 3 hens, which is what I like to do. I also breed them in pairs and trios occationaly. Colonies consist of 2-3 males with 9-10  hens. I sometimes breed them in colonies but not very often. Don't put to many males together to prevent fighting. Feed them 24-30% protein Gamebird Breeder feed in the breeding season. Bobwhite hens begin laying in mid April and may lay all summer long. The eggs are normally pure white. The female can produce a great amount of eggs! They will lay all year round with light for 14 hours a day.


Thanks for reading!


Edited by BobwhiteQuailLover - 9/14/11 at 10:54am
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post #2 of 32
Thread Starter 

-Bobwhite Quail Pictures-
http://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/uploads/68534_chocolate.jpg Day old Northern Bobwhite
http://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/uploads/68534_sleeping_chickies.jpg 2 week old chicks sleeping
http://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/uploads/68534_100_2369.jpg Orange Bobwhite Hen
http://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/uploads/68534_100_2223.jpg Mexican Speckled Bobwhite Male
http://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/uploads/68534_100_2275.jpg Wisconsin Jumbo Bobwhite Male
http://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/uploads/68534_quail_011.jpg Mocha- Wisconsin Jumbo Bobwhite Male ♥♥♥


Edited by BobwhiteQuailLover - 9/14/11 at 8:52am
I Love Terrier/Toy Dogs!
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I Love Terrier/Toy Dogs!
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post #3 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobwhiteQuailLover 

-Raising Bobwhite Quail-
Bobwhites are a popular breed for dog training and hunting. Bobwhites are easy to keep and raise. Bobwhites were my first birds ever, and I never had any problem with aggresion. They are  verly fun little birds to have around, the male's call is very nice to hear. Bobwhites provided food for settlers. They were also used for meat, eggs, and hunting. Bobwhite quail are and were famous for their flight action for hunting! The settlers used them for that reason, and the meat.

Hatching and Brooding Bobwhite Quail
-Hatching-

Bobwhite Quail are easy to hatch. I incubate my Bobwhite eggs in a 1266 Sportsman Cabinet incubator. Hovabator, Little Giant, and Brinsea are some more good ones, but I would be careful with LG's (Little Giants), I know a few people who don't have very good luck with them, I have tried it and it wasn't the best. Hovabators are probably your best bet. Bobwhite Quail take 23-26 days to hatch, with 26 days being the longest.  Their temperature needs to be at 99.5-100F. When I incubate them I have our incubator at 100F, I keep turning them through their whole hatch time. I don't stop turning them at the 20th day. If the chicks don't hatch on their due date, give them 3 extra days to hatch.

-Brooding-
Bobwhite chicks are tough, although not like their parents. I used to use a plastic rubbermaid tub, but it was boiling hot in there for them. Ours looks like  this , but with stands below it. It works really well. I keep the temp at 99 in the brooder for the first five days, then I lower it to 96F in their second week and so on. They are feed a 24% Gamebird Starter, I feed them Manna Pro Gamebird/Showbird Starter feed. It works very well. DO NOT feed them medicated food. Try to keep the food at 22% or higher protein. For my chicks I use a Quail Waterer, to prevent them from drowning. If you cannot get those or you don't want to, you can use a chicken chick waterer, but make sure to but marbles in there so they can't drown. Once they are 7 weeks old I move them outside, in to a pen with no birds in it. If the temperature is under 50F I switch on their heat lamp, inside their house/shelter. I feed them the same way, but I add Manna Pro Poultry Conditioner if I plan on showing them. When they have been kept outside for 2 weeks, I switch them over to Sprout Meat Maker which has 22% protein.


Housing and Breeding Bobwhite Quail

-Housing-
I like to keep my bobs on ground, which means they get a bigger area to run and fly around. Our main Bobwhite pen in 12 x 14' in in length. When our Bobwhites are on ground we have pea rock on they groud, for a natural setting, and they can dig around in the rocks. They don't NEED a shelter in their pen, but I like to put one in each pen for if we have a big storm or to lay their eggs in. Many people keep their birds on wire, but I don't have good luck with that at all. They get blood feet all the time, and break their necks. I hate keeping birds on wire because of that (maybe its because our wire pen is evil lol). Our wire pen is 3' high and 12' long. We have 1/4 in wire on the bottom, but the wire should be a litte bit bigger so the droppings can fall through, but not too big so raccoons can't get them. During the Winter, birds that are not kept indoors such as a barn, should be grouped together so they can form natural coveys for warmth.

-Breeding-
Breeding is relatively easy with Bobwhites. They should be in a ratio of 1 male to 3 hens, which is what I like to do. I also breed them in pairs and trios occationaly. Colonies consist of 2-3 males with 9-10  hens. I sometimes breed them in colonies but not very often. Don't put to many males together to prevent fighting. Feed them 24-30% protein Gamebird Breeder feed in the breeding season. Bobwhite hens begin laying in mid April and may lay all summer long. The eggs are normally pure white. The female can produce a great amount of eggs! They will lay all year round with light for 14 hours a day.


Thanks for reading!


So, what happens when chicks are fed "medicated feed"?
The pen should have some type of shelter to shield them inclimate weather........whether it be shade for summer months, or shelter in cold months to shield them from frigid wind chill and percipitation.  As well, most folks use 1/2" hardware cloth for flooring.  I have no problem with the wire causing "blood feet".


Edited by _Randall_ - 9/14/11 at 10:37am
Bobwhites.......Nothin' but big ol' honkin' Georgia Giant Bobwhites.....headed to Kamp Kenmore............
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Disclaimer: What works for me.....may not necessarily work for you!
Reply
Bobwhites.......Nothin' but big ol' honkin' Georgia Giant Bobwhites.....headed to Kamp Kenmore............
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Disclaimer: What works for me.....may not necessarily work for you!
Reply
post #4 of 32

Someone may have to correct me on this, but I believe it's because medicated feeds usually contain a coccidiostat, which (I think) is an antibiotic and prolonged use of antibiotics can lead to the animal (or the bacteria inside the animal) gaining a resistance to said antibiotic and that can lead to other problems (namely the animal suffering from whatever the anitbiotic was supposed to stop) smile

EDIT: Also, this needs to be a sticky smile Definitely useful information to have.


Edited by animal8 - 9/14/11 at 11:10am
Japanese quail in the pic is Nightingale, one of the two quail at my college (named Sparrow and Nightingale )
Reply
Japanese quail in the pic is Nightingale, one of the two quail at my college (named Sparrow and Nightingale )
Reply
post #5 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by animal8 

Someone may have to correct me on this, but I believe it's because medicated feeds usually contain a coccidiostat, which (I think) is an antibiotic and prolonged use of antibiotics can lead to the animal (or the bacteria inside the animal) gaining a resistance to said antibiotic and that can lead to other problems (namely the animal suffering from whatever the anitbiotic was supposed to stop) smile

EDIT: Also, this needs to be a sticky smile Definitely useful information to have.


Yup, that is what I learned from a breeder.

I Love Terrier/Toy Dogs!
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I Love Terrier/Toy Dogs!
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post #6 of 32

I haven't had any problem feeding Medicated starter so far...birds are 6 week old now. Medicated is all I can get here.  I would prefer to feed non-medicated starter.

The ingredient that is in the starter that I have is Bactracin Methylene Disalicylate and says it is for prevention of ulcerative enteritis and does not have a coccidiostat, unless the BMD controls that too ?  label doesn't say.

Bantams: Cochins, Rosecombs, Silkies Geese: Sebastopol, Buff Dewlap Toulouse, White African Ducks: Call, Muscovy  Peafowl: Purple, Opal, Cameo Silver Pied   NPIP 64-1039

 

      The Bantam Barn

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Bantams: Cochins, Rosecombs, Silkies Geese: Sebastopol, Buff Dewlap Toulouse, White African Ducks: Call, Muscovy  Peafowl: Purple, Opal, Cameo Silver Pied   NPIP 64-1039

 

      The Bantam Barn

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post #7 of 32

I'm in the same situation with medicated feed.  I know what I'm supposed to do, but can't do it, so I make do with what I have.

By the way the formation of drug resistant bacteria also happens in people, which is why when you have a cold (a virus), you shouldn't badger your doctor into giving you antibiotics.  If you have an infection, then by all means, get the antibiotics and take the WHOLE prescription, all 7 to 10 days, even though you feel better a few days into it. 

And any doctor that provides prescription antibiotics over the phone without seeing the patient first is playing Russian Roulette with their patients.

My husband is a Pediatrician, and he knows parents get frustrated when they come in and he doesn't give them anything, but 3 days later they are back and he gives them the antibiotics.  When they first come in, they don't need it.  When they come back, they then have an infection which has developed. 

I once asked him why he doesn't prescribe over the phone for "obvious" things like ear infections, and he said, because brain abscesses have the same symptoms and antibiotics would just cover up the abscess until it gets untreatable.   99.9% of them are probably ear infections, but he can't take that slim chance and he doesn't think any parent would either.  That was enough explanation for me!

post #8 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by swheat 

I haven't had any problem feeding Medicated starter so far...birds are 6 week old now. Medicated is all I can get here.  I would prefer to feed non-medicated starter.

The ingredient that is in the starter that I have is Bactracin Methylene Disalicylate and says it is for prevention of ulcerative enteritis and does not have a coccidiostat, unless the BMD controls that too ?  label doesn't say.


I've never heard of BMD, but prolonged use of any antibiotic can lead to resistance for that particular antibiotic. Is BMD a type of antibiotic? If it's all you can get, though, there's not much you can do about it. If they don't show any signs of being unwell, then you may be alright. Don't know what advice other, more experienced quailers will give smile


Edited by animal8 - 9/14/11 at 2:40pm
Japanese quail in the pic is Nightingale, one of the two quail at my college (named Sparrow and Nightingale )
Reply
Japanese quail in the pic is Nightingale, one of the two quail at my college (named Sparrow and Nightingale )
Reply
post #9 of 32

Well when someone writes a "how to" on raising Bobwhites, and states "Do NOT feed them medicated food", I'm assuming I'm supposed to pretend like the medicated feed was the cause of death this winter when I process the 400+ I've hatched out this summer.  That's what my chicks get (Nutrena "Medicated" Turkey/Quail Starter - 30% Protein) until they're at least 6 weeks old...sometimes longer, and have even given it to my layers in spring/summer with not one adverse effect.  But there again, take note of my signature......it still stands.

Bobwhites.......Nothin' but big ol' honkin' Georgia Giant Bobwhites.....headed to Kamp Kenmore............
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Disclaimer: What works for me.....may not necessarily work for you!
Reply
Bobwhites.......Nothin' but big ol' honkin' Georgia Giant Bobwhites.....headed to Kamp Kenmore............
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Disclaimer: What works for me.....may not necessarily work for you!
Reply
post #10 of 32
Thread Starter 

Well, I have had MANY breeders tell me not to feed them medicated feed

I Love Terrier/Toy Dogs!
Reply
I Love Terrier/Toy Dogs!
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