DIY chicken tractor plans and instructions

loveourbirds

Songster
6 Years
Mar 27, 2013
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waverly ohio
I apologize for the crudity of these drawings, not everything will be to scale.

this is a quick sketch of the finished coop, some things will change, of course doors will be added.

the leg under the coop will be foldable, can be made as a knock out leg also... if your budget permits camper jacks could be used for best stability.

the overall dimensions will be approximately 14 feet long by 8 feet wide. length is including the handles. it will require 2 people to move, each person will have to pick up approximately 30-35 lbs. once the wood is dry. shift the box away from the handles or cut a foot or 2 out of the length to make it lighter. if you make the run end to light however, it may roll on its own.

this should hold 10 LF chickens comfortably
 
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this is a picture of the beginning layout of the project.



notice on the far right the 2x4 extends past the 2x6 on the bottom. this is simply a foot to hold it level once the wheels are on. for an 8 inch wheel it should be about 2 inches. pay attention to how boards are overlapped as this is important later.

beginning materials list:
2 treated 2x6 10 feet long
2 12 foot long 2x4
2 14 foot long 2x4
20 8 foot 2x4
2 treated 2x6 8 feet long.
1 sheet 5/8 osb or plywood for floor. I personally recommend osb and paint both sides.
3 pieces lumber 1x4, 1x6 or anything 1 inch thick and 10 feet long.
 
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ok if you take the existing construction and painted it black, you would have something resembling this.


out of 2x4 stock, measure and cut blocks accordingly and install as diagramed below in orange.



these blocks are very important for bracing, do not skip this step. screw nail or bolt secure.
 
appps
I wont build this coop for me, its actually a design for someone else. but feel free to copy, and use these plans.. also if you have any questions, feel free to ask. someone else is probably wondering the same thing.
 
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the best way to lay out the rafter (brown) without fancy tools, is to simply figure how long you want your roof to be, I suggest making it 5 feet, so you can cut a 10 foot piece of metal in half. leave the most of the overhang off the back side, we will put our nest boxes on the back to offset more weight. the roof overhang will help keep them dry. you can also make a 6 foot roof hanging it out over the run area too. the run area must have at least a 1 1/2 inch overhang. also some stores don't sell metal in odd feet sizes (you may not be able to buy a five foot piece).
however you decide to do your overhang, you will need 5 of these rafters.

the blue block is 1 foot long, it is optional, but the coop will probably last longer with it. it should be approx. 4 feet from the handle end.
 
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ok, pretend to paint existing frame black. stand up the sides horizontal boards to the outside. attach 8 foot 2x4's as shown the pic on the right is a "run end view". you will probably have to click on the image to see the yellow indicators, these are for 2x4s cut to fit on the inside (should be 93 inches).

use treated 2x6's for the bottom cross boards, make sure to raise the one on the coop end at least 3 inches depending on the size of your wheels.. arrow points to it but you might have to click on it to see it. another option would be to raise it above the size of the wheel you are using, and use double wheels. this would be stronger, but add to the cost. when you put your sheeting on, just notch around the wheel if you go this route. keep in mind, when you move this coop all the stress will be at the wheel point. use bolts where possible, screws where you need to.

at this point you should be pretty well out of lumber.

once this is assembled, set it up on blocks making sure to leave room to attach your wheels. re-square as needed. if you don't have a large square you can measure from opposite corners. if the measurement is the same, it is square.


thread edited to change measurements at arrow, to allow for more wheel clearance.
 
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