50w ceramic heater: as good or better than 100w bulb?

I have two regular double hung windows approx 24x36 on the east and west side of my coop that I can open to provide ventalation. This give the coop plenty of light, and I have the option of any amount of venting. I covered the window opening on the inside with 1/2" hardware wire so nothing can get in the open windows. In the summer, both windows are wide open. In the winter, I keep the protected western window (open out to the covered outdoor run) about half way open and control the amount of air moving through the coop with the other window. During snow storms, I close the eastern window, or I will be shoveling out my coop! Looks for windows on Craigslist - you can often get them for free.

farmerbrowne said:

so the consensus is I dont need extra heat. Any one know what page I should go to or veiw in regards to venting my coop? I was considering also a 6"x24" sliding vent on the bottom of one side and one on the other side but at the top for venting so there is no draft for that seems to be what everyone says is one of the main issue.

Click to expand...

Advanced Search>Titles Only >cold weather coops

Good Article on Ventilation

This is always a good read for new BYC people when building coops: https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/...-go-out-there-and-cut-more-holes-in-your-coop

aart said:

Advanced Search>Titles Only >cold weather coops

Good Article on Ventilation

Click to expand...

Eggcessive said:

This is always a good read for new BYC people when building coops: https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/...-go-out-there-and-cut-more-holes-in-your-coop

Click to expand...

Same ventilation article

I also am wondering about it, but to replace the 75 and 60 watt lite bulbs I currently use for heat on 12-18 (BABY) chicks. I could use a LED bulb for lite on a timer to simulate natural periods of lite and dark, and the ceramic for heat to keep them warm I'm sorry but a baby chick brooder does require heat, and I don't like the Idea of no dark sleep periods

Here is a website that I found which has some really great and specific comparisons!

http://www.reptileuvinfo.com/html/watts-heat-lights-lamp-heat-output.html

I live in a pretty cold climate in the winter as well (it gets cold like where you are) . If you haven't purchased your birds, look for ones with smaller combs that stay close to the body. Wyandottes and Brahmas are 2 breeds that do well for me.

Hokum Coco said:

I realize there are many coops with electricity.

That being said:

I always cringe when I hear of heat in a chicken coop.
Dry bedding, 120 volts, dust, feathers, a flighty or panic stricken bird, water maybe a frayed or improperly protected extension cord.
Totally unnecessary for birds that are cold hearty in most cases and have been raised on this continent for over 100 years with out it.
What could go wrong???
Accidents do happen that is why they put erasers on the ends of pencils.
Good luck!

I live in Canada was subject to -40º last winter.
No heat or light in coop no problems.
Try not to burn anything down or electrocute yourself.

Click to expand...

Is your coop insulated?

You might want to take a look at this video as well. Temperatures in the teens and twenties and chicks brooding outdoors in the run with only a heating pad. They are totally off the pad and fully integrated with the flock by 4 weeks old - no heat whatsoever. They absolutely thrive, and if they can do, fully feathered adult chickens can too. Heat lamps - any kind of heat lamp - scare the peewadding out of me and if I had to use them for any reason I'd get out of chickens completely.

My adults are in an un-insulated, unheated coop and this morning our temperature was 6 below zero. We'll have negative twenties and maybe a negative 30 or two before winter is over in northwestern Wyoming. I was going to insulate the dickens out of my coop and seal up every crack and crevice, but wiser heads (thank you, @JackE ) prevailed. I saved a lot of money and I think my birds are healthier for it. I don't have to worry about rodents in between the studs and the coop, it helps with ventilation, and with no supplemental heat they don't overheat.

Of course, you have to do what is right for your and you are the only one who can be the judge of that. You're there, and I'm not. I was just hoping to reassure you that they are hardier than we give them credit for and maybe set your mind at ease a bit.